SunDeck 270 Winterization Question

[mosher0330]

I have a 2003 SunDeck 270 with a 6.2L MerCruiser/Bravo 3. I know there are many schools of thought on how to properly winterize a boat, I live in Texas and my boat is stored in an enclosed storage facility, however it's NOT climate controlled and it can get pretty cold here most winters. Can someone with access to the "operators manual" (this is called out in my owner's manual) tell me exactly what it says about how to properly winterize the engine in my boat?

I'm really wondering if it suggests the use of Anti-Freeze in the block, or just to simply remove the 4 blue plugs to drain the water out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Matthew

 

[Lazy Daze]

There are tons of threads about winterizing on here and the manuals are generally pretty generic. I do this for a living... YES, always use the PROPER pink stuff as it will ensure there are no pockets of water left and also prevent interior corrosion.

If you want, purchase a SERVICE manual for your ENGINE - that will give you good advice.

What type of drain system do you have? It may not be as simple as you think.

 

[Espos4]

Welcome to the site.
A few things
1. No one likes to talk about winter In August.

2. As far as antifreeze, there are arguments on both sides. Some swear by it. Some refuse to use it.

Here’s my method that I’ve used for the last 7 years.
Flush with fresh water.
Open all drains and verify they are clear and free flowing.
Remove the plugs from the underside of the exhaust manifolds and clear them too.
Close drains, Fog the motor, shut down and drain it again.
Close the drains.
Remove thermostat and pour in the antifreeze.

 

[mosher0330]

I recognize there are tons of articles on here, I’ve read many of them, yet many times they contradict each other. My boat has the 4 blue plugs - thermostat, water housing on the front near power steering pump, and 2 on the sea water pickup pump. For the last several years I’ve paid and had it done, but decided to try it myself, and that’s when I see all the experts saying something different.

 

[Lazy Daze]

The lower water distribution housing on your setup receives drain water from both sides of the block and both manifolds. You probably already know this if you've been poking around or taking more interest in doing your own maintenance. What you may not know (although it's often mentioned in those other posts) is that those hoses can get clogged giving you the misconception that everything is drained... while it may not be. You need to ensure that those hoses are clear.

No AF vs using AF is not contradictory. It's about best practice. Simply draining "should be" OK. But in the real world, it's best practice to use AF.

 

[Espos4]

Are you in salt or fresh water?

Here’s a timed test I did to see if your drains are clogged.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/testing-single-point-drain-system.107136/

 

[mosher0330]

The lower water distribution housing on your setup receives drain water from both sides of the block and both manifolds. You probably already know this if you've been poking around or taking more interest in doing your own maintenance. What you may not know (although it's often mentioned in those other posts) is that those hoses can get clogged giving you the misconception that everything is drained... while it may not be. You need to ensure that those hoses are clear.

No AF vs using AF is not contradictory. It's about best practice. Simply draining "should be" OK. But in the real world, it's best practice to use AF.

Appreciate your response, I honestly had no idea what the water collector on the front lower side of the engine was. I have a few questions. Last year I paid attention when my mechanic (20 year merc certified) did the winterization, here are the steps he followed:

• Warmed the engine until thermostat opened
• Pulled the 4 blue plugs I mentioned above, ensured water flowed out
• Pulled a small hose, the size of my index finger (with a quick connect type connector), from the side of the engine block on both the port and starboard side, used a coat hanger in each hole to ensure there was nothing clogging the hole
• Put all plugs and hoses back on
• NO anti-freeze

I run my boat in fresh water only.

My questions are:

• Were the small hoses on the side of the block considered "block" or "manifold" drains? I'm assuming they are block drains, and if so, where are the manifold drains and should I worry about them?
• What's the proper way to put 50% diluted anti-freeze back into the block, do I pour it into the large hose on the Thermostat housing, or do I use the "bucket trick"?

 

[mosher0330]

Are you in salt or fresh water?

Here’s a timed test I did to see if your drains are clogged.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/testing-single-point-drain-system.107136/

Fresh water only. Appreciate the video, very informative.

 

[Espos4]

Appreciate your response, I honestly had no idea what the water collector on the front lower side of the engine was. I have a few questions. Last year I paid attention when my mechanic (20 year merc certified) did the winterization, here are the steps he followed:

• Warmed the engine until thermostat opened
• Pulled the 4 blue plugs I mentioned above, ensured water flowed out
• Pulled a small hose, the size of my index finger (with a quick connect type connector), from the side of the engine block on both the port and starboard side, used a coat hanger in each hole to ensure there was nothing clogging the hole
• Put all plugs and hoses back on
• NO anti-freeze

I run my boat in fresh water only.

My questions are:

• Were the small hoses on the side of the block considered "block" or "manifold" drains? I'm assuming they are block drains, and if so, where are the manifold drains and should I worry about them?
• What's the proper way to put 50% diluted anti-freeze back into the block, do I pour it into the large hose on the Thermostat housing, or do I use the "bucket trick"?

Those small hoses are the block drains. The manifolds have their own hoses connected to the drain system. Additionally there are 2 brass plugs on the underside of each manifold. (1/2” or 5/8” Allen if I remember)

Me personally, I only add antifreeze by pouring it into the large hose at the thermostat housing.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Appreciate your response, I honestly had no idea what the water collector on the front lower side of the engine was. I have a few questions. Last year I paid attention when my mechanic (20 year merc certified) did the winterization, here are the steps he followed:

• Warmed the engine until thermostat opened
• Pulled the 4 blue plugs I mentioned above, ensured water flowed out
• Pulled a small hose, the size of my index finger (with a quick connect type connector), from the side of the engine block on both the port and starboard side, used a coat hanger in each hole to ensure there was nothing clogging the hole
• Put all plugs and hoses back on
• NO anti-freeze

I run my boat in fresh water only.

My questions are:

• Were the small hoses on the side of the block considered "block" or "manifold" drains? I'm assuming they are block drains, and if so, where are the manifold drains and should I worry about them?
• What's the proper way to put 50% diluted anti-freeze back into the block, do I pour it into the large hose on the Thermostat housing, or do I use the "bucket trick"?

The two small hoses he removed are the block drain hoses. They are smaller than the manifold drain hoses. It's much less likely that the manifold drain hoses would clog, but it only takes a couple minutes to verify.

You're not using "dilluted" AF - meaning, you're not using car antifreeze. You would use the proper "pink" (non-tox) AF (propylene glycol).

You can pour it in through the (cap removed) t-stat housing - but you may need a new gasket. My preferred method is to remove the hoses at the t-stat housing and pour into them.

FYI... you mentioned your guy didn't pour AF back into the system. There have been PLENTY of times that when I backflush the system by pouring AF into the hoses (block hose, primarily) that I see clear water come out first (often what appears to be aout a pint or so). That means there were pockets of water still left in the block. And, again, the proper AF prevents the interior of the block from rusting/corroding. Many people leave the block empty - but the preferred way (including what Merc recommends) is to use AF.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Oh... unless you missed it, or he didn't do it... the first step is to "fog" the engine... although that term is very general as you wouldn't actually spray fogging fluid into your throttle body as that could foul sensors. Instead, either run the proper cocktail mixture through your filter for the specified time/rpm or just run the engine on a portable tank with the cocktail mixture made up inside the tank.

 

[mosher0330]

The two small hoses he removed are the block drain hoses. They are smaller than the manifold drain hoses. It's much less likely that the manifold drain hoses would clog, but it only takes a couple minutes to verify.

You're not using "dilluted" AF - meaning, you're not using car antifreeze. You would use the proper "pink" (non-tox) AF (propylene glycol).

You can pour it in through the (cap removed) t-stat housing - but you may need a new gasket. My preferred method is to remove the hoses at the t-stat housing and pour into them.

FYI... you mentioned your guy didn't pour AF back into the system. There have been PLENTY of times that when I backflush the system by pouring AF into the hoses (block hose, primarily) that I see clear water come out first (often what appears to be aout a pint or so). That means there were pockets of water still left in the block. And, again, the proper AF prevents the interior of the block from rusting/corroding. Many people leave the block empty - but the preferred way (including what Merc recommends) is to use AF.

The two small hoses he removed are the block drain hoses. They are smaller than the manifold drain hoses. It's much less likely that the manifold drain hoses would clog, but it only takes a couple minutes to verify.

You're not using "dilluted" AF - meaning, you're not using car antifreeze. You would use the proper "pink" (non-tox) AF (propylene glycol).

You can pour it in through the (cap removed) t-stat housing - but you may need a new gasket. My preferred method is to remove the hoses at the t-stat housing and pour into them.

FYI... you mentioned your guy didn't pour AF back into the system. There have been PLENTY of times that when I backflush the system by pouring AF into the hoses (block hose, primarily) that I see clear water come out first (often what appears to be aout a pint or so). That means there were pockets of water still left in the block. And, again, the proper AF prevents the interior of the block from rusting/corroding. Many people leave the block empty - but the preferred way (including what Merc recommends) is to use AF.

I’m following you on the pink fluid vs automobile, thanks.

A few more clarifying questions then I’m good. It sounds like you must pour the pink AF into the T Stat hoses with the block hoses and blue plugs removed, given your stating that you’ve witnessed clear water come out first. If that’s the case, do you put a certain amount in with the plugs and hoses off, connect them, and then pour several more gallons to “fill the block”?

Are the manifold hoses disconnected at the bottom of the manifold, or at that “connector” near the sea water pump? My boat is stored an hour away so I can’t easily go check it out!

matthew

 

[Lazy Daze]

Remove plugs, drain, pour a little in ("waste" it to the winterizing gods) to make sure nothing clogged up while draining. Reinstall plugs and fill - this is when I would sometimes see clear water being pushed out of the nipple on the t-stat housing before pink comes out.

Manifold hoses... either.

 

[Arminius]

It's too early for this.
If you have reliable shore power available, you can put in a thermostatically controlled block heater. They fit in the lower radiator hose or a freeze plug port. Then you would not need to winterize except that you live in Texas. Warning: I have only used these on cars. On a boat you will have to locate it in standing coolant which could be an issue if yours is raw water cooled as it has an immersion heating element.
Also, this use of RV (pink) anti-freeze may be unnecessarily confusing as it is only to protect pets who might lap up spillage. Auto anti-freeze is sweet and poisonous. There is a spectrum of colored auto anti-freezes available now as each manufacturer colors its own. The 11.5:1 compression ratios on unleaded gas we now see in autos with high hp seem to be dependant on adequate head cooling demanding attention to coolant mixes by car companies which each have their own proprietary concoctions and colors. None are safe for pets. No need to get confused as your boat is not on a trailer and is not surrounded by swimming poodles.

 

[boatrboy]

Listen to lazy daze. I have winterized several boats for some twenty years (mine and all my friends). I used to drain and remove the thermostats. Lazy does this for a living and can’t afford to have a block crack, so on his advice I followed his suggestions and poured pink (in my case purple being over cautious here in the northeast) in the hoses at the thermostat housing making sure the water was expelled. All of this after fogging of course. These were all raw water cooled.

Lazy saved me time and expense with a professional method.

 

[Arminius]

Listen to lazy daze. I have winterized several boats for some twenty years (mine and all my friends). I used to drain and remove the thermostats. Lazy does this for a living and can’t afford to have a block crack, so on his advice I followed his suggestions and poured pink (in my case purple being over cautious here in the northeast) in the hoses at the thermostat housing making sure the water was expelled. All of this after fogging of course. These were all raw water cooled.

Lazy saved me time and expense with a professional method.

Never winterize a friend's boat. He might excuse an indiscretion with his wife but an insult to his boat would not be forgotten.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Listen to lazy daze. I have winterized several boats for some twenty years (mine and all my friends). I used to drain and remove the thermostats. Lazy does this for a living and can’t afford to have a block crack, so on his advice I followed his suggestions and poured pink (in my case purple being over cautious here in the northeast) in the hoses at the thermostat housing making sure the water was expelled. All of this after fogging of course. These were all raw water cooled.

Lazy saved me time and expense with a professional method.

You are waaaaaayyyyy too kind!

 

[bbwhitejr]

You are waaaaaayyyyy too kind!

Agree 100%. He got me started down this road with gas stern drives 10-12 years ago and never an issue.

Bennett

 

[Arminius]

Purple anti-freeze is very poisonous but dogs like the taste. Not that I care but it is best to understand. Unless you know what you're doing, this work should be left to a mechanic.

 

[boatrboy]

Purple anti-freeze is very poisonous but dogs like the taste. Not that I care but it is best to understand. Unless you know what you're doing, this work should be left to a mechanic.

Same as pink - heed your own advice....