What to look for / at while on a test drive?

[alwhite00]

Looking at a 87 Sea Ray Seville 21 MC tomorrow (I looked at it already but putting it in the water tomorrow)

Has the 3.7 4 cyl - Nice looking boat but I would like to know what to look for before, durring & after the test drive - Kind of new to this boating thing so any advice is greatly appreceiated.

LK

 

[Sundancer]

Check for easy starting, doesn't die when shifting in and out of gear, smooth acceleration, no hiccups, make sure the run is long enough to get the temp up there. Then back off and go to idle for a few minutes to see if the temp spikes. This will give you some idea on the condition of the water pump. Look for leaks, inspect the bilge and make sure it's dry before and after the run. Check out every system, pump, light bulb, horn etc., to make sure it works. Have the owner run the boat at WOT to make sure it CAN run at WOT. Note the rpm's and the speed. Knock the transom to see if it sounds good and solid or if there could be dry rot in there. Check all compartments and tap the wood to make sure it's not soft or showing signs of dry rot. Look at the condition of the fuel tanks and hoses, cleanliness of the bilge to make sure there are no oil leaks or antifreeze leaks. Does the wiring look good or does it look like a rats nest. Drain a smidge of oil from the lower unit to determine if there is any metal in it. There are a lot of other things too!

IF all of this looks good and you are still interested, call your favorite boat surveyor and have him check the boat. Make sure he can check compression on the cylinders and have him pull the outdrive to take a look too. At least then you'll have his impression of the boat. He'll have a water meter and should be able to determine the moisture levels in hull of the boat.

 

[danmarsh50]

Good idea to know what your minimum plane speed is. In other words, whats the minimum rpms/speed to keep the boat on plane (if the boat has trim tabs, put them all the way down and see what rpm vs speed it requires to keep the boat on plane.
Why? If you're caught in rough head seas you want to be able to keep the boat on minimal plane while still being able to make headway. A lot of older Sea Rays are very light in the bow and this can be challenging. Depending on where you do your boating, if you plan to operate in rough seas at all - I would definitely test this set up on sea trial.

 

[Sundancer]

So how did it go??

 

[Presentation]

+1 on Sundancers review.

Regarding hiring the surveyor, I’d like to add a bit more. If you decide to make a offer on the boat you make an offer on the boat contingent to the boat passing a boat and mechanical survey with no new discoveries of issues.

This protects you from spending money on a survey only to later discover the seller and you can not come to terms on price.

Have the seller standing buy during the survey. You may want to agree in advance that if issues are discovered and they can fix them during the survey the seller pays for it at their option or if the mechanic can give you an idea of the cost to repair then the seller has the option to adjust the selling price to keep the sale and you can continue your survey process.

If your offer is accepted then hire the boat survey, that’s the inexpensive one, on the size boat you mention I’d expect about $300-$400. This boat survey will check all systems and hull for moisture and integrity, stringers, etc. They will not check the engine and drive beyond obvious signs of issues like leaking oil or dry rot on hoses, belts, etc.

If the boat survey goes well then finally comes the mechanical survey. That is expensive, no other way to say it. A compression check alone will run $350 and here is how I’d do it.

Have the mechanic have a set of new spark plugs and other items at the ready. Have a couple of extra spark plugs because they do break sometimes as you install them.

Step #1) Give all mechanical systems a once over for obvious issues, look at bellows, exhaust leaks, etc. If they are going to inspect the exhaust, this is the time to do it. If all is good go onto step 2.

Step #2) remove all plugs. Do the compression check. To do a good compression check ALL the plugs must be removed at the same time for the test. If all is good, with the spark plugs still out, go onto step 3.

Step #3) If the compression is good, have the mechanic pull the drive and inspect the coupler, u-joints, etc. At a minimum the mechanic will also take out the lower drive plug and drain a bit of drive fluid to inspect it for streaks, a sigh of bad seals, or other contaminants. They may pull the props to see if the drive shaft is straight but if there was no vibration during the test run this may be omitted to save cost, a reasonable idea. Finally, crack open the water pump to inspect the impeller and pump housing. A good mechanical survey also includes the mechanic looking for many other less common issues however the above are mechanical survey highlights. If all is good go onto step 4.

Step #4) If all is good, the survey inspection is done, the price negotiation is done but the boat is in pieces, drive is off, spark plugs are out, water pump is open, this impeller and water pump may be in the drive or attached to the engine depending on the drive. This is now your boat and you may as well get your money’s worth as the mechanic puts it back together.

Have the mechanic grease the drive and u-joints if applicable as long as it’s off, new bellows if needed, reinstall the drive, tork the gimble, service (change oil) in the drive, install new spark plugs and possibly install new cap, rotor and spark plug wires at the same time as well as any other service items you feel are beyond your desire or skill level of Do It Yourself and needs to be done.

This may include a new impeller, an important part of the engine cooling system that needs to be changed every few years. Also bellows are a routine service item. Your mechanic may suggest other items as well. If the boat has a not working trim gauge or trim limit switch the time to change it is with the drive off.

By the time you are done you will have spent at least a grand on the mechanical survey plus maintenance however you were smart and got a tune up, drive service and other things done at the same time, recouping some of the cost or at least lowering the total cost of survey and maintenance.

Note: I would love to have some of the other members here at CSR critique my above recommendation.

 

[alwhite00]

So how did it go??

He called me just before I was going to leave and said it wouldn't start. One would think that you would have it running before posting it for sale. I told him that I was not all that crazy about the 4 cyl anyways and I backed out.
I found another one (same model but a 1986) that they put a 350 in it - (They bought it with a cracked block) Cruising speed is 30mph with a 21 pitch prop. Interior has been redone - Good looking boat but priced too high I think. No stove or fridge like the last one and he is 2K+ higher than the last one I looked at.
Not sure what the blue book is on that model but he seems high. Hard to find a boat under 24' that will sleep 4 - I really like the midcabin on that model. Not sure what years they made them but they don't turn up around here too often it seems. (michigan)
This is not anywhere near the top end of the boat spectrum but I just want something for me & the faimly to enjoy. I am in the "thumb" of michigan and am surrounded by water so it would be nice to utilize this.
I like the small block chevy motor, They are easy to work on, dependable and I have a spare on an engine stand if needed.

LK

 

[jarhead]

If you want to sleep 4, you'd be better off looking at a 260 or even a 250 Sundancer unless you are limited by a tow vehicle. Right now I see a lot of boats for way less than I would expect to pay. By the way, I'm glad you passed on the 470!

 

[Sundancer]

I'd definitely look around. There are a lot of boats out there and the prices are very low. Don't be afraid to go for the 454. The mileage difference is negligible and you will have additional horsepower at your fingertips. Is the 350 that you have already setup with a marine cam? You'll ingest a LOT of water if it's got an auto cam in it!

You'll find one, just keep looking!

 

[alwhite00]

What does the cam have to do with injesting water? Like I said, I'm new to this and have no idea with the marine engines. I just know that the 4.3 & 5.7's look VERY similar to the auto engines. I assume the block & heads are the same, Or not?
I put a want ad on CL and a guy called me tonight and he has a 86 23' Sea Ray Weekender with a 305 V8 in it. Sounds like it needs some interior work but I told him to send me some pictures.
I am still interested in the 21' Seville with the 350 in it but I'm going to wait a little & see if he will come down on the price. (quite a bit)

i like the Seville's 8' beam - The Weekender is 8'6" I believe. I have a Chevy Avalanche for a tow vehicle. That's another reason I like the 21' too. I called a marina today and it sounds like they only made that model of Seville with the mid cabin a few years, Is that correct?

Thanks for all the info, Keep it comming.

LK

 

[alwhite00]

Well, Going to look at another one tomorrow - 3+ hour drive but it looks like what we want

22.5' Sea Ray Seville mid cabin - 4.3 V6, Red & white, Interior is good other than some checking on the center of the pull out rear seat. Has a GPS, Ship to shore, Depth / fish finder, Trim tabs, 2 props, sink, ice box, stove, new shift cables, camper top/bimini cover. Has a shorelander trailer with bearing buddies. In nice shape.

Hopefully it all checks out, Said he would take me out no problem so that's good.

LK

 

[steriltech]

sad that one have to pay almost a grand before even buting the dagon thing :smt013 isn't that a shame I spent over $5000 before I even stayed on mine. The servayer was $600 alone! Is it worth it????????? I mean I love the boat just not the cost...The cheapest marina here is $2100 winterizing $1000 storage $600 thats on a 29 ft I can only imagin a 34ft...

 

[Knotty Buoy]

Much as I'm a fan of Mercruiser I don't think I've ever seen a 470 or an "L" drive that was actually running. They've always been lying in bits on the workshop floor.
Think you did well to pass on that one...............

 

[alwhite00]

Well, Went and looked at the second one - About the same results.

We get there and the boat looks "similar" the the bictures but I am guessing they were taken ten years ago when the boat was in service.

The boat had bottom paint that looked VERY bad, Numerous chips & dings. Interior was checking in quite a few spots, Motor was dirty (4.3 OMC) and just looked neglected in general. It started right up in the driveway and he didn't have water to it, Thought that was strange. I was not a big fan of the OMC but I thought I would check it out. The boat just seemed "damp" everywhere I looked. (It did rain the night before)

I figured I would go for a test drive just to feel it out, Well - Didn't go so good. We get there and launch the boat, As he is parking his truck & I am holding on to it he comes back and says that he forgot to put the plug in it, Back out she comes - Water was about 1' deep when we opened the engine cover.
I ran him to the hardware 4 mmiles away to get a plug - By time we got back it was raining but we put the plug in and launched. He went to start it and both batteries were completely dead - He says -I Brought jumpers for just such a problem. (he had a 3rd "good" battery sitting under there) so he jumps it and still no go.
Back out it comes, He says he can jump it with my truck - I pull up there and he gets it running - Dumps it back in the water - I look at the amps gage and it's right at 8 volts, I told him I didn't think it was charging. He decides to go anyways, Dumps it in gear and it dies - Dead battery, Raining, Not charging, I'm soaking wet, ECT.
We load it up again & I told him that this just was not going to work.

On the way home I looked at another one, We will see how that goes.

LK