2000/2001 380DA thoughts, opinions, reviews

If your girlfriends brother in law knows how to take several bolts out of things, he’s capable of removing and reinstalling the aftercoolers and installing the new hoses.

I would personally bring him down there, have him look over this stuff and see how comfortable he is. Once he sees it, I doubt he would say he can’t do it.

I’m not trying to sound rude here, if he’s a Cat technician he should be fully capable.

Be sure to have the gaskets and new hoses on hand when re-installing. I’d drive 3 hours each way to save 7k!
 
ttmott said:
What? Why doesn't he help pull the aftercoolers if you are trying to save costs? The only thing easier to remove is the cover. Any radiator shop can cook the thing and pressure test. Or you pull and take it to Cat to clean.... The Hx and gear cooler are easy to pull also. You can clean them or take to someone to clean.
Purchase the zinc's at Boatzinc.com.
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He said he can pull them, he's just never done it before. He even knows the radiator shop to take them to. Having never pulled them I do not know what to expect when we get on the boat. Is it simple/straight forward?

Also, it's a 6+ hour roundtrip by car to the boat. I was trying to save 2-3 trips to do this part of the service, respecting his time.

Carver370 said:
I’d drive 3 hours each way to save 7k!
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So would I, I am trying to be respectful of his time. He's offered to do them, just never has.
 
The shop that gave me the $3500 quote for the after coolers called me this morning. Seems he has told the seller over the past year he needs the recommended service done now, and the seller declined multiple times. Well, a trans cooler plugged up and he overheated a transmission. Now I know the story behind the new transmission. The boat overheated once, needed a new raw water impeller. Boat had a fuel issue once, replaced fuel filters. Current seller/owner is clueless mechanically and has declined all service recommendations stating his wife does not want to spend any more money on the boat, it's too expensive, sell it.

He repeatedly said it's a good clean boat, there's just no service history and the owner/seller has already overheated a trans and one engine by not keeping up with the service. When they had the starboard engine out to replace the trans he again asked the owner to let him do the service, and he declined.

The shop said I need to do all of the service now since there is no documented service history on the boat, before there are additional major costly issues.
 
mrsrobinson said:
The shop that gave me the $3500 quote for the after coolers called me this morning. Seems he has told the seller over the past year he needs the recommended service done now, and the seller declined multiple times. Well, a trans cooler plugged up and he overheated a transmission. Now I know the story behind the new transmission. The boat overheated once, needed a new raw water impeller. Boat had a fuel issue once, replaced fuel filters. Current seller/owner is clueless mechanically and has declined all service recommendations stating his wife does not want to spend any more money on the boat, it's too expensive, sell it.

He repeatedly said it's a good clean boat, there's just no service history and the owner/seller has already overheated a trans and one engine by not keeping up with the service. When they had the starboard engine out to replace the trans he again asked the owner to let him do the service, and he declined.

The shop said I need to do all of the service now since there is no documented service history on the boat, before there are additional major costly issues.
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Eh - if the gear cooler plugged up the engine would overheat well before the gear overheated unless it plugged up on the oil side..... All of the engine cooling raw water goes through the gear cooler.
 
ttmott said:
Eh - if the gear cooler plugged up the engine would overheat well before the gear overheated unless it plugged up on the oil side..... All of the engine cooling raw water goes through the gear cooler.
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I thought about that as well based on the research I've been doing on the raw water systems on these engines. I don't have an answer, other than the shop told me that's why the transmission burned up. The boat has the newer version of that transmission on the starboard side.
 
douglee25 said:
Makes sense. Because you are a responsible boat owner, you were going to get a good baseline anyway, correct? :)
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Yes, I have the baseline from the engine surveys that were done November 1st. It's my plan once I take possession of the boat to start working on the critical items first and do the remaining items right after that.
 
mrsrobinson said:
I thought about that as well based on the research I've been doing on the raw water systems on these engines. I don't have an answer, other than the shop told me that's why the transmission burned up. The boat has the newer version of that transmission on the starboard side.
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maybe it didn’t overheat but rather blew all the transmission fluid out through the raw water side? If the gear cooler sprung a leak I’m guessing the pressure from the transmission pump would overcome the raw water pressure and drain the trans fluid. Either that or the trans would fill with water

speculation of course
 
The Transmission cooler went out on my 7.4 and it filled the transmission with water. Fluid looked exactly like a strawberry milkshake. I think tranny cooler on a diesel would do the same.
 
Strecker25 said:
good to know, so the cooler must be on the suction side of the pump? I’ve never looked through the transmission schematic
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It is the 2 bar lube oil that goes through the cooler.
upload_2022-1-30_19-3-51.png
 
ttmott said:
It is the 2 bar lube oil that goes through the cooler.
View attachment 119626
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I’m surprised the raw water flow overcomes that and fills the transmission but that’s maybe too simplistic of an understanding of fluid dynamics, I have no idea what water vs ATF means in terms of mixing. I’d guess it also varies depending on where a leak might be

thread sidelined enough, I’ll stop :)
 
The boat I am under contract on hit 2717 and 2685 load RPM during the sea trial. The hull surveyor as well as the engine surveyor said it's probably the props, get them tuned. Hull survey noted they were nicked and bent.

Before I close on the purchase, is there anything else I should check or be concerned about regarding the load RPMs on this boat?

It's been about 15 years since I had props tuned, what can I expect to pay for both props to have them tuned?
 
mrsrobinson said:
The boat I am under contract on hit 2717 and 2685 load RPM during the sea trial. The hull surveyor as well as the engine surveyor said it's probably the props, get them tuned. Hull survey noted they were nicked and bent.

Before I close on the purchase, is there anything else I should check or be concerned about regarding the load RPMs on this boat?

It's been about 15 years since I had props tuned, what can I expect to pay for both props to have them tuned?
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Sorry I don't have any input as to your questions in this post but I am extremely interested in your personal assessment, feelings and comments about the performance of the 380 with the diesels on your survey/sea trial. TIA

Edit; Sorry if you already posted it, but your workin a few different threads.
 
techmitch said:
Sorry I don't have any input as to your questions in this post but I am extremely interested in your personal assessment, feelings and comments about the performance of the 380 with the diesels on your survey/sea trial. TIA

Edit; Sorry if you already posted it, but your workin a few different threads.
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Sea trial is scheduled for February 25th, I'll let you know.
 
mrsrobinson said:
Engine and Hull survey both recommended turning the props since the engines did not reach Load RPM. I had budgeted for this, and just found out the seller is paying to have this done. Merry Christmas to me :)
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Ensure they are done before the sea trial - you need to be sure the boat reaches proper RPMs without that as an excuse.

Hope it goes well!
 
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