2001 510 Sundancer

Rondevue

Rondevue

New Member
Oct 14, 2007
61
Stillwater, MN
Boat Info
380 Sundancer
Engines
7.4 Horizons
Hey guys,

I am in the process of possibly purchasing a 2001 510 Sundancer. We were able to take it out for a sea trial this past Friday, in my opinion the boat was under performing. Is there anybody familiar with this particular boat that would know what we should be getting for top speed? WOT we were getting around 30 MPH on two different GPS's. Boat is powered with Cat 3196's, were not sure at this time how it's proped. Any input would be much appreciated.
 
Jmwarren said:
What were WOT RPMs?

Do you have an idea of fuel flows?
Click to expand...

Yes, RPM was 2350 at WOT, no ideas about what the fuel flow, was no fuel flow meters that I am aware of. Boat is being surveyed this week, we'll see what he has to say about it.
 
Well at least its hitting the governer. How much Fuel, Water, Waste, Gear and people were on board?

Sea Ray should have test numbers for that package, I'd give them a call monday.
 
I know I'm obsessed with cored hulls...but the 510 had one, hull and sides. So I would check this too, or look a the following 500/52 DA with solid hull and sides...
 
I love that model 510, what a great cabin layout. Not sure what RPM the 3196 is set to max out at but that sounds pretty close to what it should be. 30 MPH in a boat that size isn't bad. Throw in the 3406E upgrade in that boat and it is a sportscar. Have them check all fuel filters and also the bottom, clean filters and bottom are absolutely necessary for the best numbers. Good luck!
 
Pietro said:
I know I'm obsessed with cored hulls...but the 510 had one, hull and sides. So I would check this too, or look a the following 500/52 DA with solid hull and sides...
Click to expand...



We see this a lot.......and I've lost count how many people PM me about Sea Ray and cored hulls. You will not find many boats over 40 ft from any manufacturer that aren't cored. Sea Ray's layup methodology is sound and, in fact, they engineer the layup schedule to include solid area(s) in the hull where the intakes and transducers are located. The only reason to suspect a wet hull core is: 1.)where the hull vents are not bedded properly (they are from the factory, but frequently are not when the outer vent shell is replaced later), 2.)where someone unqualified adds something like another intake or a thru-hull at some point not designed for it, or 3.)where the hull has sustained some physical damage that penetrates the fiberglass inner or outer layers and exposes the core.

My boat is a 450DA and has a fully cored hull. I replaced a transducer a while back and kept the plug that we cut from the bottom when the new transducer was installed. It was positioned in the part of the hull designed for holes on the cored hull:

hullplug.jpg


I am of the opinion that you have far more risk of core damage on the deck or deck/house part of the boats and everything from the 240DA up has a cored deck. The reason is that there are far more places on the deck structure for water to enter the coring. Just count the number of screws, snaps, windlasses, spotlights, stanchions, etc. you have on your deck and you will probably reach the same conclusion.
 
I found this out first hand when looking for a 340......first boat I checked out had considerable delamination on the forward deck from someone installing snaps to hold a sun pad cover.....didn't seal they snaps correctly and had a 36x36 area that didn't pass the tap tap or water saturation tests.
 
Frank, I agree with you on the fact that a properly made cored hull is a good thing... but I just wonder why the 500/52 DA that substituted the 510 has a solid hull????? :huh:

Sorry, I do not want to spoil Rondevue's thread....
 
Update, potential problem has been resolved, it ended being a simple prop issue. Had both props, they were not cupped. Had them cup the props and now the boat performs great. The top speed now is 37-38 mph WOT. This was with a very light load, 1/4 tanks of fuel , no fresh water, and no gear on board. Hard to believe that prop cupping can change the boats performance that much.
 
Good deal. I would have guessed 35+ as it's dry weight is a couple thousand less than a 480db. You should have a fast cruise of 30 or so. Glad the 3196 doomsayers didn't scare you away. You'll love those motors. Good luck and great boat...
 
Rondevue said:
Update, potential problem has been resolved, it ended being a simple prop issue. Had both props, they were not cupped. Had them cup the props and now the boat performs great. The top speed now is 37-38 mph WOT. This was with a very light load, 1/4 tanks of fuel , no fresh water, and no gear on board. Hard to believe that prop cupping can change the boats performance that much.
Click to expand...


Please define "cupping of props"
 
So why doesn't everyone cup their props? Are props cupped at the factory already? I just don't understand.......if cupping the props provides better performance shouldn't we all do it? Is their some downside?
 
I've never seen a big Sea Ray here that didn't have cupped props. A quick and easy way for a prop guy to add rpms to an boat is to remove all or some of the cup. It is far easier than removing pitch, but unless the prop guy knows what the props are used on (hull/engines) is usually does more harm than good. This is also a pretty good example of the torque produced by Caterpillar engines.

And, Tim, he never asked about the engines….just told us he was buying a 510DA, which BTW is a great boat, and the biggest 50 ft boat you will ever get on.
 
I'm sure he read and recd plenty of comments on those motors. Usually from people who don't have firsthand knowledge. But rarely does the other side of story, post-updates, get told. Yes, he's getting great boat indeed. Btw, heading to PC next weekend for a week. Let me know if you'll be in town by chance.
 
I'm here now and will be here, until the weather in Tennessee is warm enough to get outside!. We'll be around until about 11/15……I'll email you contact info. in case you lost it.
 
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