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I'm a new owner of a '05 340. Should the AC Converter switch be "on" while connected to shore power? Do the batteries charge if it's in the "off" position? Thanks in advance.
I'm a new owner of a '05 340. Should the AC Converter switch be "on" while connected to shore power? Do the batteries charge if it's in the "off" position? Thanks in advance.
Good deal! Post a pic if you had one.
Funny, my 2000 340 has the panels reversed with the ignitions at the bottom and AC lines 1+2 at the top.This is a photo of the panel. Thanks again.
My 2000 has the AC on top ignitions on bottom.Funny, my 2000 340 has the panels reversed with the ignitions at the bottom and AC lines 1+2 at the top.
Yes the AC Converter switch should be on. The batteries can be off... Mine are off...I'm a new owner of a '05 340. Should the AC Converter switch be "on" while connected to shore power? Do the batteries charge if it's in the "off" position? Thanks in advance.
I'm glad you asked this... What type of packing are you using and where are you getting it from? I have replaced packing on shipboard valves, and I would remember this was a simple job... Just looking at my shafts, my guess is around 3/8"... Mine leak too...Does anyone one know what size packing cord I need for the rudder glands on my 2002 340DA?
I see ads with diameters from 1/8" up to 5/8"
This will be one of my winter projects...
I'm glad you asked this... What type of packing are you using and where are you getting it from? I have replaced packing on shipboard valves, and I would remember this was a simple job... Just looking at my shafts, my guess is around 3/8"... Mine leak too...
I'm not married to any particular supplier, but I'm considering this one... https://www.emarineinc.com/categories/GFO-Marine-Shaft-Packing
The website has a guide for cord vs shaft diameter. I just haven't gone to measure the shaft yet and wanted to see if any of the local experts here had recommendations.
The other idea I've considered is to get rid of the gland altogether and go with this product...
https://www.tidesmarine.com/rudder/rpbj_overview.php
GFO is fine if you want to do it. Regular packing will work well for rudders as well. I would skip the Tides seal. If your rudder are leaking, would just tighten them down a 1/2 half turn. Since there is no friction, you can really tighten them to stop leaking. If it's actually the end of the line for the packing, then replace. I have had mine for 20 years at least. Not a problem.
My wife and I are completing our first season with our `99 340 Sundancer and we couldn't have made a better decision for our family, it's been the best summer ever. We boat on Lake Barkley in Kentucky, and it's a challenging lake to navigate even for a seasoned captain. We stay in the channel in the main lake and follow the buoys when leaving/entering the channel to/from our marina. We are interested in a GPS/Navigation system as we continue to explore the lakes (Barkley & Kentucky) and plan trips to Nashville, TN. Any recommendations based on what we are looking for?
So, I think the ones have been flipped on the panel in the photo. I can't understand why, but who knows............My 2000 has the AC on top ignitions on bottom.
1 1/4" hard wall.Can anyone confirm the hose size for our raw water pickup. I’m referring to the hose between the seacock and the sea strainer. IIRC it’s 1 1/4, but not sure.
I’m not near my boat at the moment and want to get some b/f I head down there.