40 sedan bridge forum

CaptRonn said:
Replaced mine last winter. I bought another unit from Great Lakes Skipper. Fairly easy change out.

Bought a Dometic Boat Air Conditioner VTD16K-410A | 115V 60Hz 16000 BTU. $1700 new and $200 shipping.

Another one to consider is https://www.marinaire.com/Marine-air-conditioner-16000-btu-110V-p/msba16k2.htm
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Thanks for the quick response. Did you use your existing thermostat. Also looks like the water supply and discharge hoses are oriented different on that unit. Can you remember if you had to extend them?
 
Pierpressure1 said:
Thanks for the quick response. Did you use your existing thermostat. Also looks like the water supply and discharge hoses are oriented different on that unit. Can you remember if you had to extend them?
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Mine was a one for one installation, I replaced the failed unit with an identical one. So it was relatively easy, about 2 hours.
 
Pierpressure1 said:
Thanks for the quick response. Did you use your existing thermostat. Also looks like the water supply and discharge hoses are oriented different on that unit. Can you remember if you had to extend them?
Click to expand...
It appears since acquiring both Cruisair and MarineAir over the years, that Dometic has consolidated all of those products into two lines for 2020. They are the ECD and the DTG lines. Prices are significantly higher than the VTD16 price that CaptRonn paid. Hopefully you can find someone with the older inventory still in stock. For example I paid $2300 for the DTU-16 three years ago. Now it's direct replacement is the DTG-16 and best price I could find for it is $3100.
 
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I would seriously look at the MarinAir units if shopping for a replacement.

They are Chinese made, but so far haven't seen any negative comments on them (since last time I checked) Do some research on them.

They do have some nice features, are quieter and a better price point than Dometic.

https://www.marinaire.com/
 
ZZ13 said:
It appears since acquiring both Cruisair and MarineAir over the years, that Dometic has consolidated all of those products into two lines for 2020. They are the ECD and the DTG lines. Prices are significantly higher than the VTG16 price that CaptRonn paid. Hopefully you can find someone with the older inventory still in stock. For example I paid $2300 for the DTU-16 three years ago. Now it's direct replacement is the DTG-16 and best price I could find for it is $3100.
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You can still buy the VTD16K's for about $2500, new.

Some google research and shopping can usually find good deals on AC units. Even Ebay has some good deals on new units on occasion.

If I have to replace another unit, I'm seriously going to look into the MarinAir units next time.
 
Hi all, has anyone replaced the stems in the shower fawcet. Mine are leaking and I need to replace the seat or the whole stem. Thanks, Greg
 
Speaking of AC question for you all. I noticed my master bedroom is much warmer than my guest bedroom. My wife wakes up and turns up the AC and freezes out or guests when there are some onboard. I now it is because of the way the venting is placed and somewhat a steep angle feedthe the master with less flow restriction to the guestroom/ Have anyone A. had this issue, and B. come up with a solution other than stuffing a rag in the vent in the guest to restrict flow? Lastly I switched to these little guys a couple years ago and love em! https://citimarinestore.com/en/micr...h_display_options-oem_without_wi_fi_x50_25500
 
Gregl said:
Hi all, has anyone replaced the stems in the shower fawcet. Mine are leaking and I need to replace the seat or the whole stem. Thanks, Greg
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Don’t know what faucets you have, twice since I’ve had the boat I had to remove the stem and clean some deposits out from around the washers. Put them back in and all is good. Might work for you. The washers and o rings were in good shape but a good hardware will have an assortment to choose from.
 
my3sons said:
Don’t know what faucets you have, twice since I’ve had the boat I had to remove the stem and clean some deposits out from around the washers. Put them back in and all is good. Might work for you. The washers and o rings were in good shape but a good hardware will have an assortment to choose from.
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I don't know what faucets they are. I believe they are original from 1999. I may have to call Sea Ray. I am going to pull one out and take a look. If I am lucky I will find one in a store that matches. Greg
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
Speaking of AC question for you all. I noticed my master bedroom is much warmer than my guest bedroom. My wife wakes up and turns up the AC and freezes out or guests when there are some onboard. I now it is because of the way the venting is placed and somewhat a steep angle feedthe the master with less flow restriction to the guestroom/ Have anyone A. had this issue, and B. come up with a solution other than stuffing a rag in the vent in the guest to restrict flow? Lastly I switched to these little guys a couple years ago and love em! https://citimarinestore.com/en/micr...h_display_options-oem_without_wi_fi_x50_25500
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Air powers out of my master stateroom vent. So much that we had to put on a deflector to divert the air from the head of the bed. Maybe the hose pulled away from the vent on yours?
 
ZZ13 said:
Air powers out of my master stateroom vent. So much that we had to put on a deflector to divert the air from the head of the bed. Maybe the hose pulled away from the vent on yours?
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Mine too. We haven’t used a diverter yet but the master can be the ice box! We put the “hot one” sleeping on that side.
 
scooper321 said:
Mine too. We haven’t used a diverter yet but the master can be the ice box! We put the “hot one” sleeping on that side.
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Here’s mine.
 

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Gregl said:
I don't know what faucets they are. I believe they are original from 1999. I may have to call Sea Ray. I am going to pull one out and take a look. If I am lucky I will find one in a store that matches. Greg
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Nothing new about my faucets, may be the same as yours
4D359C90-7017-410E-8DAB-88388BC18C77.jpeg

the deposits that get into the washers and o rings are usually scale from the water heater.
 
CaptRonn said:
I would seriously look at the MarinAir units if shopping for a replacement.

They are Chinese made, but so far haven't seen any negative comments on them (since last time I checked) Do some research on them.

They do have some nice features, are quieter and a better price point than Dometic.

https://www.marinaire.com/
Click to expand...
I was able to revive my current unit. My pump had failed which caused both the salon and master ac to shut down. Once I replaced the pump the master unit started and ran fine but the salon ac would try to start the compressor it would click on briefly but would not stay running. The thermostat displayed a high pressure error.
I ended up tapping on the high pressure switch with a wrench and cleaning the condenser and it is now working fine. I may buy a unit to have in reserve as I know it is on borrowed time.
 
Pierpressure1 said:
I was able to revive my current unit. My pump had failed which caused both the salon and master ac to shut down. Once I replaced the pump the master unit started and ran fine but the salon ac would try to start the compressor it would click on briefly but would not stay running. The thermostat displayed a high pressure error.
I ended up tapping on the high pressure switch with a wrench and cleaning the condenser and it is now working fine. I may buy a unit to have in reserve as I know it is on borrowed time.
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These switches will tend to stick over time. By simple doing what you did is fine, and at the worst maybe eventually replace the HP switch. If the rest of the unit is fine, just continue running it.

Chances are the cleaning is what helped you the most.
 
Pierpressure1 said:
I was able to revive my current unit. My pump had failed which caused both the salon and master ac to shut down. Once I replaced the pump the master unit started and ran fine but the salon ac would try to start the compressor it would click on briefly but would not stay running. The thermostat displayed a high pressure error.
I ended up tapping on the high pressure switch with a wrench and cleaning the condenser and it is now working fine. I may buy a unit to have in reserve as I know it is on borrowed time.
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Sorry to nit pick but did you clean the evaporator with a no rinse spray (that's what I use), or did you flush/acid clean the condenser coil, or both?
 
my3sons said:
Yes, and it’s that simple. I’ve done it twice. Once just last week. We had to do it once when we looped and caused quite a ruckus when we slowed down, pulled out of the channel and started circling. The other boats in the Alligator river got on the radio and started asking if we lost something, person in the water, something wrong with the steering.?...lol.
Guess I should have made a securite call, ha.
Anyway, I just had the admiral read the procedure out of the manual while I drove and pushed buttons. Only issue is the boat won’t go 2 kts. Have to keep bumping one shaft in and out while doing the turn. But overall, simple
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I did the cal yesterday. You were right. Easy peasy. I did the fine tuning of the heading adjust, too, to get it to match the helm compass. But it didn’t fully correct the heading showing on my plotter. Still looks like I’m cruising thru the water semi sideways. I went back and worked with the fine tuning a bit more. It’s better but the helm compass/AP still disagree with the heading shown on the plotter. I don’t have a separate heading sensor for the Axiom, so it’s getting the heading from the SeaTalk (so it should agree!). Unless it is calculating it internally. Weird. I’m less worried about my various sensors’ numerical values disagreeing than I am my boat going sideways through the water on my plotter!
 
scooper321 said:
I did the cal yesterday. You were right. Easy peasy. I did the fine tuning of the heading adjust, too, to get it to match the helm compass. But it didn’t fully correct the heading showing on my plotter. Still looks like I’m cruising thru the water semi sideways. I went back and worked with the fine tuning a bit more. It’s better but the helm compass/AP still disagree with the heading shown on the plotter. I don’t have a separate heading sensor for the Axiom, so it’s getting the heading from the SeaTalk (so it should agree!). Unless it is calculating it internally. Weird. I’m less worried about my various sensors’ numerical values disagreeing than I am my boat going sideways through the water on my plotter!
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What did it calculate the deviation to be? I had to move my heading sensor just a bit when I removed the stateroom bunk. These posts finally got me to recalibrate it a few days ago. It reported a deviation of 20, which implies there is probably too much metal around it. It's now closer to the vacuflush pump than it used to be. Manual recommends to relocate it if the deviation is more than 15. But it's now just about spot on with the compass at all headings except for a small area where it's off by about 4 degrees. So I'm inclined to leave it as is and call it done.
 
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