40 sedan bridge forum

Johnny Utah said:
Is this the correct filter for the holding tank? Where is our holding tank? Thanks for the help in advance! View attachment 88827
Click to expand...

Don't know about that specific one. But it's Sea Ray Part Number 134759. I did a search on CSR for that number and got this thread:

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...-sundancer-thread.59501/page-128#post-1147997

There's a link to Amazon with this part as a replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/AirForce-Hol...HZ8HB5G005V&psc=1&refRID=QTZFWS22KHZ8HB5G005V

They look different, but I imagine if they have the same threaded fixtures (5/8") at either end and are the same length, they are interchangeable.

Funny how this thread works... I was just thinking of replacing mine, too. Since my prev owners swear they NEVER pooped in the boat in 17 years of owning it, I imagine I may be running on the original one. Ewww.

EDIT: Just read the very first comment on that Amazon link. It was a comparison of that Airforce filter with the inquired-about ECO filter. Check this out:

"Comparing the Airforce filter to the Dometic Sealand ECO filter (which we have used in the past). The Dometic Sealand ECO uses less carbon to save manufacturing costs and claims it works better with the new filter shape that is narrow in the middle. The Airforce filter is a straight tube and holds more carbon to absorb more of the the odor. The Dometic Sealand ECO Filter also sends parts that you wont need. And if you have any other filter size than the 5/8” you are trapped into using their expensive filter going forward if you use their fittings. How is it ECO to throw away all those extra plastic parts you paid for? Dometic Sealand ECO requires assembly, its not plug ‘n play, it also uses o-rings, lose one, then what? Too complicated and too expensive and wasteful and in my opinion not very efficient. I have already been down this road with the Dometic Sealand ECO. Save your money and buy the Airforce filter."

So the ECO appears to work, but you'll be locked into their ECO-system (see what I did there?). Looks like this Airforce filter is a direct, easy drop-in.

Now, if you want to rebuild your filter, check this one out:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/how-to-recharge-holding-tank-vent-filter-w-pics.849/
 
Last edited:
Johnny Utah said:
Is this the correct filter for the holding tank? Where is our holding tank? Thanks for the help in advance! View attachment 88827
Click to expand...

Holding tank is below the cockpit hatch on the port side.

If you want to spend that much on a filter. You could go with this for half the price: https://www.amazon.com/AirForce-Hol...595358555&sprefix=holding+tank,aps,220&sr=8-3

I made my own filter using PVC pipe and charcoal for a fish tank. Every 6 months or so I just open it, dump out the old charcoal and refill for a couple of bucks.
 
holding tank.png
 
Here’s where it lives. That filter works fine. Pricey. I got 3 of them at a marine swap meet in the keys a few years ago for $60 ea. They don’t seem to have any trouble lasting 2 years.
I didn’t get good service life out of the Air Force one, maybe I got a bad one.

6D1BF4E2-8C4F-45DC-9481-80930E54E9C1.jpeg
 
my3sons said:
Here’s where it lives. That filter works fine. Pricey. I got 3 of them at a marine swap meet in the keys a few years ago for $60 ea. They don’t seem to have any trouble lasting 2 years.
I didn’t get good service life out of the Air Force one, maybe I got a bad one.

View attachment 88845
Click to expand...
I buy the Voker brand for $47 Amazon. Lasts a bit more than two years.
 
ynot said:
sorry gentleman's
to intrude on your conversation and change subject .please i need advice on changing out my all rope windlass
with stainless /rope ,what is the best out there
400 SB many thanks
Click to expand...
depending on the type of windlass, my boat came with a Lewmar, which i replaced with the Lewmar V3, you've got an option to swap out/size the gypsy. There are sizing charts for rope and chain combinations. Try to find out what you've got, most of the gypsy's can accommodate a rope chain combo so do a little research before spending the money. i ended up purchasing the V3, installing a control box and chain counter at helm and 300 ft of all chain rode. If you cant find anything about your existing windlass/gypsy message me back and I'll see if I can help
 
Caterpillar 3126 - 1700hrs / 2000 Sedan bridge 400
We did a pre-purchase mechanical inspection with Toromont CAT yesterday.
Engines are running fine and tech only found the V-Belts to change, and the preheat system been disconnected.

During the sea trial, engines at WOT were 2200 rpm (16 knots). No special issue except that the cat specs for those engines are giving 2800rpm at WOT. Tech checked all the cable, etc, all fine. On the last survey (2009) they were at 2600rpm.

I have negotiated the price of the boat base on the assumption that I will cover the 2000 hrs services (substantial discount based on estimated cost).

Does anyone had similar experience? If this situation would be fixed with the 2000 hrs service, or should I hold the offer until they do a deeper diagnostic?

Thank you for any help
 
ptitchuisse said:
Caterpillar 3126 - 1700hrs / 2000 Sedan bridge 400
We did a pre-purchase mechanical inspection with Toromont CAT yesterday.
Engines are running fine and tech only found the V-Belts to change, and the preheat system been disconnected.

During the sea trial, engines at WOT were 2200 rpm (16 knots). No special issue except that the cat specs for those engines are giving 2800rpm at WOT. Tech checked all the cable, etc, all fine. On the last survey (2009) they were at 2600rpm.

I have negotiated the price of the boat base on the assumption that I will cover the 2000 hrs services (substantial discount based on estimated cost).

Does anyone had similar experience? If this situation would be fixed with the 2000 hrs service, or should I hold the offer until they do a deeper diagnostic?

Thank you for any help
Click to expand...
My opinion is that 2600 WOT isn't very good and 2200 WOT is terrible. I personally would get that sorted out to 2800 before I bought the boat.

Was the bottom and running gear clean at sea trial?
 
ZZ13 said:
My opinion is that 2600 WOT isn't very good and 2200 WOT is terrible. I personally would get that sorted out to 2800 before I bought the boat.

Was the bottom and running gear clean at sea trial?
Click to expand...

Thank you Bill
yes I have the boat surveyed, then a caterpillar technician do the 2 engines and geny inspection, and we all went to a sea trial.
Boat is in very good condition and she doesn't look her age :)
 
Given the clean bottom and not overweight I’d check the aftercoolers. Mine started losing RPMs at WOT until I couldn’t get past 1700 RPMs both engines but no problem 3200 at dock and no load. Temps stayed under 180 just couldn’t get engines past 1700. Pulled aftercoolers and both were blocked on the water side. I have 3126 420 hp cats.
 
DavidBukstel said:
Given the clean bottom and not overweight I’d check the aftercoolers. Mine started losing RPMs at WOT until I couldn’t get past 1700 RPMs both engines but no problem 3200 at dock and no load. Temps stayed under 180 just couldn’t get engines past 1700. Pulled aftercoolers and both were blocked on the water side. I have 3126 420 hp cats.
Click to expand...
Excellent, thank you for the tip!
 
ptitchuisse said:
Excellent, thank you for the tip!
Click to expand...
I'm in a bit of a similar circumstance and haven't quite gotten through it all yet but I thought I would briefly share....I had the boat in Mexico for a few years and did a bunch of long range low rpm cruising. As the deferred maintenance built up we brought back north. Locally, performance (with wife and 5 year old on board) is a premium. I wasn't RPM's, numbers similar to yours or just slightly better. I replaced my injectors and installed new aftercoolers, RPM's got higher but I was still hitting 2800 under load. The turbos on my 3116s weren't in great condition so installed new turbos. Now i make 2800 rpms at WOT but am still lacking speed, the boat is running at about 20kts, at 2100 rpms the boat runs 16-17kts. Running gear is fine, cutlass bearing and shaft seals are 2 years old. Props were conditioned at that time too. After the season, i intend to adjust the props or proping up. Current props are 22 inch 4 blade. Mechanically, I think I'm sound, just not getting the performance on the boat I'd like to see.

ptitchuisse, I'm hope some of this is helpful in your purchase, to get this point has been costly, albeit much of maintenance (aftercoolers/heat exchangers, etc.) should be periodic maintenance and replacement items. Nonetheless, the boat you sea trialed is not performing like a 400SB should and I would proceed with caution.

I've checked this forum out periodically for the last 7-8 years and have found many of the contributors to be pretty knowledgeable. If anybody's got some advice or comments, I'd be grateful to hear it
 
Nick, this is definitely helpful, thank you.
I am waiting for the inspection report from Caterpillar on Monday and go with his recommendations. Injectors and turbos were mentioned but as per call yesterday, we would most likely have him do to the deeper analysis to identifiy what exactly needs to be done. I will be happy with the numbers you mentioned as they are the ones given by cat for those engines.
Broker has also contacted the seller to let him know that this would need to be addressed before closing the deal
Thank you for all your help and suggestions
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,182
Messages
1,428,079
Members
61,089
Latest member
KDKING
Back
Top