40 sedan bridge forum

nickw said:
I'm in a bit of a similar circumstance and haven't quite gotten through it all yet but I thought I would briefly share....I had the boat in Mexico for a few years and did a bunch of long range low rpm cruising. As the deferred maintenance built up we brought back north. Locally, performance (with wife and 5 year old on board) is a premium. I wasn't RPM's, numbers similar to yours or just slightly better. I replaced my injectors and installed new aftercoolers, RPM's got higher but I was still hitting 2800 under load. The turbos on my 3116s weren't in great condition so installed new turbos. Now i make 2800 rpms at WOT but am still lacking speed, the boat is running at about 20kts, at 2100 rpms the boat runs 16-17kts. Running gear is fine, cutlass bearing and shaft seals are 2 years old. Props were conditioned at that time too. After the season, i intend to adjust the props or proping up. Current props are 22 inch 4 blade. Mechanically, I think I'm sound, just not getting the performance on the boat I'd like to see.

ptitchuisse, I'm hope some of this is helpful in your purchase, to get this point has been costly, albeit much of maintenance (aftercoolers/heat exchangers, etc.) should be periodic maintenance and replacement items. Nonetheless, the boat you sea trialed is not performing like a 400SB should and I would proceed with caution.

I've checked this forum out periodically for the last 7-8 years and have found many of the contributors to be pretty knowledgeable. If anybody's got some advice or comments, I'd be grateful to hear it
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Dear all,
Just wanted to thank you for your help and share that we are back to 2600 rpm. We closed the deal last Thursday and spent our first weekend at the anchor.
Everyone is just excited about the new to us boat! Still adjusting to the size :) and the diesel, but totally worthit!

Cheers
 
I had one of my deck hands let the boat get a little to close to the wooden dock post and it caused my vent to break and fall into the water. The job looks simple fix, I just need to buy the vent, clean up the area and add caulk to replace it back where it belongs. Am I missing anything?
 

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Johnny Utah said:
I had one of my deck hands let the boat get a little to close to the wooden dock post and it caused my vent to break and fall into the water. The job looks simple fix, I just need to buy the vent, clean up the area and add caulk to replace it back where it belongs. Am I missing anything?
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I broke one of those on my 320. I believe the new one comes with those “Christmas Tree” pins like what hold on your car door panels. That’s probably what’s holding those three pieces to the boat. Those and caulk will hold it on.
 
scooper321 said:
Don't know about that specific one. But it's Sea Ray Part Number 134759. I did a search on CSR for that number and got this thread:

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...-sundancer-thread.59501/page-128#post-1147997

There's a link to Amazon with this part as a replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/AirForce-Hol...HZ8HB5G005V&psc=1&refRID=QTZFWS22KHZ8HB5G005V

They look different, but I imagine if they have the same threaded fixtures (5/8") at either end and are the same length, they are interchangeable.

Funny how this thread works... I was just thinking of replacing mine, too. Since my prev owners swear they NEVER pooped in the boat in 17 years of owning it, I imagine I may be running on the original one. Ewww.

EDIT: Just read the very first comment on that Amazon link. It was a comparison of that Airforce filter with the inquired-about ECO filter. Check this out:

"Comparing the Airforce filter to the Dometic Sealand ECO filter (which we have used in the past). The Dometic Sealand ECO uses less carbon to save manufacturing costs and claims it works better with the new filter shape that is narrow in the middle. The Airforce filter is a straight tube and holds more carbon to absorb more of the the odor. The Dometic Sealand ECO Filter also sends parts that you wont need. And if you have any other filter size than the 5/8” you are trapped into using their expensive filter going forward if you use their fittings. How is it ECO to throw away all those extra plastic parts you paid for? Dometic Sealand ECO requires assembly, its not plug ‘n play, it also uses o-rings, lose one, then what? Too complicated and too expensive and wasteful and in my opinion not very efficient. I have already been down this road with the Dometic Sealand ECO. Save your money and buy the Airforce filter."

So the ECO appears to work, but you'll be locked into their ECO-system (see what I did there?). Looks like this Airforce filter is a direct, easy drop-in.

Now, if you want to rebuild your filter, check this one out:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/how-to-recharge-holding-tank-vent-filter-w-pics.849/
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I bought the charcoal and rebuilt the filter. see :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SaniGard-S...965921?hash=item469e8103a1:g:YDgAAOSwkEJZ1HFo
 
scooper321 said:
I broke one of those on my 320. I believe the new one comes with those “Christmas Tree” pins like what hold on your car door panels. That’s probably what’s holding those three pieces to the boat. Those and caulk will hold it on.
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Did you find the vent cover at Flounder Pounder?
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
Can you dive details of work involved? If it fits I might have to buy 2! HAHA
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The fridge has to be removed to access the screws holding the original microwave and wooden tray that it is mounted to. Once the microwave was out I had to take about 1/8” off the sides and a little more than an inch off the top of the opening. The new microwave mounted to the wooden tray the same as the original so the installation was just the reverse of the removal.

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Has anyone recalibrated their compass on the auto pilot? Mine disagrees with the magnetic compass on my helm and my boat icon on my plotter shows a heading different than the actual course. I read the instructions on how to do a recalibration, it seems easy enough. But I’m concerned about messing it up worse. Is it as easy as it seems? I have the original AP and the ST7001 control unit.
 
scooper321 said:
Has anyone recalibrated their compass on the auto pilot? Mine disagrees with the magnetic compass on my helm and my boat icon on my plotter shows a heading different than the actual course. I read the instructions on how to do a recalibration, it seems easy enough. But I’m concerned about messing it up worse. Is it as easy as it seems? I have the original AP and the ST7001 control unit.
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Yes, and it’s that simple. I’ve done it twice. Once just last week. We had to do it once when we looped and caused quite a ruckus when we slowed down, pulled out of the channel and started circling. The other boats in the Alligator river got on the radio and started asking if we lost something, person in the water, something wrong with the steering.?...lol.
Guess I should have made a securite call, ha.
Anyway, I just had the admiral read the procedure out of the manual while I drove and pushed buttons. Only issue is the boat won’t go 2 kts. Have to keep bumping one shaft in and out while doing the turn. But overall, simple
 
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I should have mentioned that before you do it, just check under the bunk in the 2nd stateroom where the compass is that you haven’t stored anything metallic to close. That throws it off.
 
My salon ac just died. Has anyone replaced theirs yet and if so which unit did you use? I still have the original unit from 1998.
 
Pierpressure1 said:
My salon ac just died. Has anyone replaced theirs yet and if so which unit did you use? I still have the original unit from 1998.
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I bought the Dometic Turbo unit a few years ago. At the time it was called the DTU-16. It works with my existing SMXii controller.
 
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