420/44 DB Owners Club

Does anyone know the standard gap between props and struts for our model boats? Also what's diameter of the forward side of hub?
I came across a good deal for line cutters and want to see if they fit in the space without having to dive the boat. And how much gap needs to be left for water flow through the cutlass bearing? thanks
 
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To access the starboard side duckbills on the 44DB it appears the most direct route is to remove the exhaust and then easily accessible....
NOTE . If anyone is planning on doing this while the boat is in the water please learn from my mistake. Once I broke the seal for the starboard exhaust it started draining water which I figured there would be some in the tube but after a few minutes and the bilge pump coming on I pushed the tube clear to looked a bit closer to noticed water coming in from the underwater exhaust.
So now I either need to lose 50 lbs and become a contortionist to get to it or ?
Has anyone replaced starboard side duckbills with the boat in the water and if so how did you get to them?
 
Does anyone know the standard gap between props and struts for our model boats? Also what's diameter of the forward side of hub?
I came across a good deal for line cutters and want to see if they fit in the space without having to dive the boat. And how much gap needs to be left for water flow through the cutlass bearing? thanks

I don’t have the numbers you need but I am curious to see if your line cutters will fit. I was told a couple of years ago that there were none available that would fit out boats..

My boat is still in the yard so I might enquire again.
 
To access the starboard side duckbills on the 44DB it appears the most direct route is to remove the exhaust and then easily accessible....
NOTE . If anyone is planning on doing this while the boat is in the water please learn from my mistake. Once I broke the seal for the starboard exhaust it started draining water which I figured there would be some in the tube but after a few minutes and the bilge pump coming on I pushed the tube clear to looked a bit closer to noticed water coming in from the underwater exhaust.
So now I either need to lose 50 lbs and become a contortionist to get to it or ?
Has anyone replaced starboard side duckbills with the boat in the water and if so how did you get to them?
Out of curiosity, does your boat have the Starboard lean like a lot of us seem to have? When I asked about doing this same thing a few months ago someone else posted they were able to remove the tube while in the water without issue. When I look at mine, the port side at least looks like it may be doable with the list to starboard raising the port a couple inches higher.So if that is the case, could you put some temporary ballast to port in sufficient weights to make her list to port until you get the job done?
 
I don’t have the numbers you need but I am curious to see if your line cutters will fit. I was told a couple of years ago that there were none available that would fit out boats..

My boat is still in the yard so I might enquire again.
I need to dive the boat and measure the front side of the hub diameter, and measure the gap. Was hoping that someone who had already taken measurements would post them, or someone with boat currently on the hard could get me those dimensions thinking they would be more or less standard and then I could decide to buy these cutters or not without diving the boat. I have seen a couple different brands as thin as .82" thick for our 2" shafts. And I think I read somewhere to leave at least 1/4" space between the cutlass bearing and the cutter for proper water flow to cool the bearing.
 
Out of curiosity, does your boat have the Starboard lean like a lot of us seem to have? When I asked about doing this same thing a few months ago someone else posted they were able to remove the tube while in the water without issue. When I look at mine, the port side at least looks like it may be doable with the list to starboard raising the port a couple inches higher.So if that is the case, could you put some temporary ballast to port in sufficient weights to make her list to port until you get the job done?
That may have been me a few months ago cause I removed the port side exhaust tube and had no problems and now I recently added 320lbs of lead ballast to the port side to try to level out which got me close, one thing that may have contributed to this was that both my fuel tanks are full so I am sitting lower than normal. I wonder if there is a rubber cap I an put on the fiberglass that goes to the underwater exhaust that was I can remove the pipe and slip on the cap and clamp it, do what I need to do then remove and reconnect the exhaust tube.
The water didn't gush in, but it was a steady flow.
 
That may have been me a few months ago cause I removed the port side exhaust tube and had no problems and now I recently added 320lbs of lead ballast to the port side to try to level out which got me close, one thing that may have contributed to this was that both my fuel tanks are full so I am sitting lower than normal. I wonder if there is a rubber cap I an put on the fiberglass that goes to the underwater exhaust that was I can remove the pipe and slip on the cap and clamp it, do what I need to do then remove and reconnect the exhaust tube.
The water didn't gush in, but it was a steady flow.
If you don't find a cap, maybe get a measurement of the tube diameter and find a kids ball slightly bigger that could be squeezed in. Or maybe a heavy duty plastic bag pulled tight around where the tube goes and with clamped or taped to seal?
 
I need to dive the boat and measure the front side of the hub diameter, and measure the gap. Was hoping that someone who had already taken measurements would post them, or someone with boat currently on the hard could get me those dimensions thinking they would be more or less standard and then I could decide to buy these cutters or not without diving the boat. I have seen a couple different brands as thin as .82" thick for our 2" shafts. And I think I read somewhere to leave at least 1/4" space between the cutlass bearing and the cutter for proper water flow to cool the bearing.
I think the space between the back of the prop and the strut is the same as the shaft thickness. 2 inches. I will be at my boat in the morning, I will measure the space and let you know what I find tomorrow.
 
I think the space between the back of the prop and the strut is the same as the shaft thickness. 2 inches. I will be at my boat in the morning, I will measure the space and let you know what I find tomorrow.
Thank you very much!
 
Does anyone know the standard gap between props and struts for our model boats? Also what's diameter of the forward side of hub?
I came across a good deal for line cutters and want to see if they fit in the space without having to dive the boat. And how much gap needs to be left for water flow through the cutlass bearing? thanks
Here's a couple pics from when I had mine out of the water. Looks like it is about 2 inches if you compare it to the 2x4’s
20210326_134718.jpg
20210326_134711.jpg
 
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Here's a couple pics from when I had mine out of the water. Looks like it is about 2 inches if you compare it to the 2x4’s
View attachment 113481 View attachment 113482

Been doing some research and think I might go for the one piece Prop- Protector disc type cutter. It’s extra thin (0.7”), super simple and cheap @$520.00 for the pair.

They also performed perfectly in the Yachtingmonthly test.

https://prop-protector-usa.com/product-category/propprotectors/slide-on/slide-on-large/

https://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/propeller-rope-cutter-test-30012


D83EF235-D69D-4BB2-97DB-4F850CA76568.jpeg
 
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Been doing some research and think I might go for the one piece Prop- Protector disc type cutter. It’s extra thin (0.7”), super simple and cheap @$520.00 for the pair.

They also performed perfectly in the Yachtingmonthly test.

https://prop-protector-usa.com/product-category/propprotectors/slide-on/slide-on-large/

https://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/propeller-rope-cutter-test-30012


View attachment 113494
Those look good too, but if I have the room for clamp on's I think I'll go that route so when I have to remove props in future I can first take off the cutter to make room for my puller.
 
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I have some measurements for you.
Diameter back of strut is 3 3/4”
Space between strut and prop is 1 1/2”
Diameter the hub on prop is 3 1/4”
Hope this helps.
Yes it does - thank you very much!
 
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I did too. Thought about it but never tried removing the panel when I installed a camera and a rear flood light. Probably would have made my life easier. :(. Snap a pic once you get it off. Curious how much access you get in there.
ended up just snaking the wiring with out any issue. did not remove the panel. We are going to mount the camera right where the stern navigation light is mounted though. will replace navigation with 2, one on each side of camera.
 
ended up just snaking the wiring with out any issue. did not remove the panel. We are going to mount the camera right where the stern navigation light is mounted though. will replace navigation with 2, one on each side of camera.
Why two white nav lights ? Might be confusing to others at night.
 
THey should be so close to one another u can't tell that it is 2.
 
Does anyone know what the size of the propeller shaft coupler bolts are? Also what is the shape; they are very different!
 

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