Garmin VHF 315 and GHP Reactor 40 Hydraulic Autopilot Corepack - Reviews

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Tom:
Sorry to point out a flaw however I have the same one... Sent the templates to Technografic's today to draft up a cover. Wondering if you had a different idea for this? I am also thinking about about adding a USB receptacle in the cover to the right of the GHC 20.

Rich
 
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Tom:
Sorry to point out a flaw however I have the same one... Sent the templates to Technografic's today to draft up a cover. Wondering if you had a different idea for this? I am also thinking about about adding a USB receptacle in the cover to the right of the GHC 20.

Rich
I have the same issue - When I have time a cell phone holder is planned to cover them up.
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My Iphone X (standard size) will not fit between but maybe if you raise it up a bit.
I'm thinking the two holes are for the mount plate only and the actual phone holder will stand away a bit and be able to pivot. Ram Mount makes a plethora of components to mount phones https://www.rammount.com/ so fabricating something shouldn't be an issue.
 
My daughter and I started laying out, planning and installing the Autopilot components. Installed the GHC20, drafted the template for Technografic to make a plate, mounted the Smart Pump, Course Computer and had the new hydraulic hoses made up. Next up, bribe my son or daughter to come help me again this weekend to run the wiring from the bridge to the engine room...

Question... What is the best way or trick to purge all of the old fluid out of the system before putting the new fluid back in? I am not sure how old the fluid is, I suspect it is transmission fluid by the color. I know that is probably ok but I purchased all new SeaStar Power Steering Fluid and hoped not to mix the two for the lion share.

Appreciate any tips.

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What is the best way or trick to purge all of the old fluid out of the system before putting the new fluid back in?

As part of my install (which hasn't happened yet) is to replace my hydraulic cylinder due to a leaking seal. I hooked up some clear tubing to the bleed ports and just started cranking the wheel. When I "break" the existing tubing fittings, I expect some leakage but not a whole lot. The entire system by my estimate (on a 420) is 2-3 quarts. Yours may be more (?) because of a DB and bigger boat in general. I would suspect that if you unhook the tubing at the cyliner, most fluid would drain just from gravity.

Jaybeaux
 
As part of my install (which hasn't happened yet) is to replace my hydraulic cylinder due to a leaking seal. I hooked up some clear tubing to the bleed ports and just started cranking the wheel. When I "break" the existing tubing fittings, I expect some leakage but not a whole lot. The entire system by my estimate (on a 420) is 2-3 quarts. Yours may be more (?) because of a DB and bigger boat in general. I would suspect that if you unhook the tubing at the cyliner, most fluid would drain just from gravity.

Jaybeaux
The difference is the 52DB has power steering and a pressurized fluid accumulator. Essentially, there are two independent hydraulic circuits that share the accumulator. One is driven by a hydraulic pump on the starboard gear and those hydraulics actually power the steering ram. The other is the steering and AP input that supplies pressure to move the sector valve on the steering rack. It's not a simple drain, purge, and bleed process but if filled with ATF it needs to be done.
First the accumulator needs to be depressurized.
Disconnect the 3/4 inch hoses from the hydraulic pump, accumulator, filter, and from the steering gear and allow all of that to drain.
Next disconnect the steering lines (all three) and allow the steering system from the helm to drain at the steering gear and accumulator. You will have to cycle the steering wheel back and forth to get all of the helm reservoir drained.
Then cycle the steering gear manually left and right to drain it.
Don't forget to remove and replace the filter.
Filling is another step by step process. Do not run the hydraulic pump when it's dry....
 
Do I need to add heat to remove these fitttings? Force was not working...

thanks for any help!

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Heat might damage any seal in the check valve and/or ignite the oil.

Looks like a nice vise and a good box wrench would do it or possibly a 6 point deep socket.
 
Do I need to add heat to remove these fitttings? Force was not working...

thanks for any help!

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use more force with a backup wrench or vise on the piece not being removed.... There is no way they are corroded. The fitting into the pump is an O-Ring seal and should easily loosen.
 
use more force with a backup wrench or vise on the piece not being removed.... There is no way they are corroded. The fitting into the pump is an O-Ring seal and should easily loosen.

The elbows are the ones giving me the most trouble.
 
Thanks, put the pump in a vice and got them all off. A couple of them broke but that’s ok.
 
Autopilot is completely installed. Still need to bleed and commission the system. Thanks @ttmott for the tips and pictures. This was a big project but having the locations already figured out helped a lot.

Also replaced the steering wheel and had Technografic make a panel to cover up the OEM AP Head unit footprint.


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Very nice!
Quick question - where is your fresh water pump?

Thanks...In the laundry room. In front of the vacuum pump. Not sure why Sea Ray designed certain models to have the FW pump in the engine room and others in the laundry area. I do like hearing it run (more importantly cycle) is the advantage in the laundry. You know if there is a leak.
 
Autopilot is completely installed. Still need to bleed and commission the system. Thanks @ttmott for the tips and pictures. This was a big project but having the locations already figured out helped a lot.

Also replaced the steering wheel and had Technografic make a panel to cover up the OEM AP Head unit footprint.


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Very nice... Now time for the final boat jewerly to "get the gold out"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NA3WV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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