Installing an Amp, questions?

Pyrojodge

Well-Known Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
May 1, 2011
4,248
Lake Erie Ohio
Boat Info
1989 Sea Ray 340 DA
Engines
twin 454 Mercs
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So as some of you know I'm putting in a much better stereo system in my baby. I have the components picked out and have a JL Audio XD700/5. My question is how you install it. I have the spot picked out safe and sound in the cabin in the rear dinette storage. I have to run the power wires about 8 ft. from amp to batteries. So how do you protect the wiring? Fuse, breaker, or how... I wouldn’t think that these would be ignition protected? Also, how do you ground the amp in a boat? I know in a car that you ground as close to the amp as possible. I also understand how to run the remote wire and rca cables... How do you set up different channels? My plan is to run the two 10’’ subs at a 2 ohm load to produce 300watts from this amp. The other 4 channels I will run 4 ohm running a pair of JL 7.7 and a Pair of JL 6.5 in the cabin… Any advice or links you guys can help with would be great. This boat has never had a good sound system and it has the original 1989 stereo and speakers... so anything will help improve sound... Thanks guys...
 
So how do you protect the wiring? Fuse, breaker, --I would put an inline fuse in.

Also, how do you ground the amp in a boat?---I would run a dedicated ground wire to the battery.

I also understand how to run the remote wire and rca cables... How do you set up different channels? ---This question i don't exactly understand. You buy an amp that has as many channels as you want, and you hook up the RCA wires from the deck accordingly.

My plan is to run the two 10’’ subs at a 2 ohm load to produce 300watts from this amp. ---Are they actually two ohm subs? If not, you can't do this.

Hope this helps.
 
Sure you can Jason, wire the subs in parallel. This will give you the 2 ohm load your looking for. The rest is good, although you may consider a circuit breaker, easier but a bit more money. Pretty much the same system in my 370 if you added a XD900 and a few more speakers ;-)

It will sound great
 
So how do you protect the wiring? Fuse, breaker, --I would put an inline fuse in. Can it be put in the ER with out fear of ignition?

Also, how do you ground the amp in a boat?---I would run a dedicated ground wire to the battery. OK, Just run the 4ga back to negitive post... got it...

I also understand how to run the remote wire and rca cables... How do you set up different channels? ---This question i don't exactly understand. You buy an amp that has as many channels as you want, and you hook up the RCA wires from the deck accordingly. But dont you have to set the Highs and lows on the amp?

My plan is to run the two 10’’ subs at a 2 ohm load to produce 300watts from this amp. ---Are they actually two ohm subs? If not, you can't do this.
SEE RUSS' comments...
Hope this helps.




Sure you can Jason, wire the subs in parallel. This will give you the 2 ohm load your looking for. The rest is good, although you may consider a circuit breaker, easier but a bit more money. Pretty much the same system in my 370 if you added a XD900 and a few more speakers ;-)

It will sound great

Russ, yes that was the plan to run the 4ohm subs in parallel to achieve 2 ohm load... OK, so is the breaker ignition protected? I really do not want to blow up my boat... Guess you dont have to worry about gas fumes any more... again congrats Russ, she's a beauty...

Don't you have to adjust gain and other componets on the amp? or some type of adjustment? I have a great setup in my truck but one of my good friends did it for me and I just watched dont really know what he was doing? I wish he hadn't got married and moved away...oh well thats why I have you guys to pick your brains...
 
Ok, I'm sorry. I thought we were talking about separate channels somehow. You guys caught that one!!! As far as adjustments, I'm sure someone has a more scientific way, but I do it by ear. I turn the stereo way up with the gains down quite a bit, and then bring them up as far as I can without it clipping. That gives me my max. Again, someone else probably has a more scientific way.
 
I am doing a similar project so I will bust into Pyrojodge's thread.....his amplifier requires a minimum of a 60A fuse within 18" of the battery connection using 4GA cable. Is there such a thing as a 60A inline fuse like that?

So how do you protect the wiring? Fuse, breaker, --I would put an inline fuse in.
 
I am doing a similar project so I will bust into Pyrojodge's thread.....his amplifier requires a minimum of a 60A fuse within 18" of the battery connection using 4GA cable. Is there such a thing as a 60A inline fuse like that?

I can answer that, YES, I have a 100 amp in my truck for my 1200 watt audiobahn... I am just not sure if it is ignition proof... In the truck who cares, in the boat is another story...
 
They do exist. A friend has a huge in-line fuse on his power inverter. I think he told me it's almost a hundred bucks to replace it if it blows.
 
I was going to make the 12v+ connection to my JL Audio M500/3 at the battery switch as opposed to the battery itself so I wouldn't need an ignition-proof connection but I hadn't run across anything that would work yet. I ran the 4GA cable on Friday and I need to sort this out soon.

I can answer that, YES, I have a 100 amp in my truck for my 1200 watt audiobahn... I am just not sure if it is ignition proof... In the truck who cares, in the boat is another story...
 
I was going to make the 12v+ connection to my JL Audio M500/3 at the battery switch as opposed to the battery itself so I wouldn't need an ignition-proof connection but I hadn't run across anything that would work yet. I ran the 4GA cable on Friday and I need to sort this out soon.

I was thinking something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/STINGER-SCBM100-Marine-Circuit-Breaker/dp/accessories/B002LARRTE

My batt switches are in the bilge as well so that does not solve the issue... I guess the Marine circuit breaker would be ignition proof but dont want to take chances...
 
OK, that makes sense. When the "inline fuse" was mentioned I was thinking that it would be something that crimped directly into the power cable.

Jason, since I have jumped into your thread can you tell me about the rest of your setup? I installed 2 x 7.7 JL Audio speakers, a 10" JL Audio sub, a Sony M60UI Head unit with the Sony X60M remote. At the moment the Sony equipment is connected to the two 7.7" speakers and that was a huge upgrade from what was in the boat. The next step is integrating the JL Audio M500/3 amp, two Audio Control line drivers and connecting the sub.

I was thinking something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/STINGER-SCBM100-Marine-Circuit-Breaker/dp/accessories/B002LARRTE

My batt switches are in the bilge as well so that does not solve the issue... I guess the Marine circuit breaker would be ignition proof but dont want to take chances...
 
I am doing a similar project so I will bust into Pyrojodge's thread.....his amplifier requires a minimum of a 60A fuse within 18" of the battery connection using 4GA cable. Is there such a thing as a 60A inline fuse like that?

Blue Sea has a complete line of Ignition Protected Breakers. Here is a link :

http://bluesea.com/category/3/10/productline/overview/13

Mount breaker in line 18" from positive battery post connection.

12vltsupply.jpg
 
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Blue Sea has a complete line of Ignition Protected Breakers. Here is a link :

http://bluesea.com/category/3/10/productline/overview/13

Mount breaker in line 18" from positive battery post connection.

Hifi as always you are awesome... Thanks for the link...

Phlorida... Here's my setup as I see it at the moment... (im still in development)

Head unit will be a CMD6 with the MW1 remote at the helm. The Head unit will be mounted in my Cabin.
In the cabin rear I will replace the current sony 6.5 with JL Audio MX650-CCX-CG-TB. I have forward speakers in the forward bunk but I am not sure how to get to them yet and not high on priorities right now...
Now the cockpit.
I will have a pair of JL Audio M10W5-SG-WH Subs with on opposing sides of the cockpit...
Also, the Clarion 6x9's I installed last year will be replaced with JL Audio M770-CCS-SG-WH...

I have not decided if I want to run the 6.5's 7.7's and 10's off of the amp...

or
Connect the 6.5's to the head unit, bridge the 7.7's and run the 10's at 2 ohms like always...

Oh again, the amp is the XD700/5...

I plan to replace all of the speaker wire since it is regular wire and not speaker wire... I think this will also lead to better sound and power...
 
That should sound great Jason, I'll look forward to hearing about your progress. I am trying to finish my project up next week.

I changed out the speaker wire also. The original speaker wire from 1995 was more like green goo than copper cable.

Hifi as always you are awesome... Thanks for the link...

Phlorida... Here's my setup as I see it at the moment... (im still in development)

Head unit will be a CMD6 with the MW1 remote at the helm. The Head unit will be mounted in my Cabin.
In the cabin rear I will replace the current sony 6.5 with JL Audio MX650-CCX-CG-TB. I have forward speakers in the forward bunk but I am not sure how to get to them yet and not high on priorities right now...
Now the cockpit.
I will have a pair of JL Audio M10W5-SG-WH Subs with on opposing sides of the cockpit...
Also, the Clarion 6x9's I installed last year will be replaced with JL Audio M770-CCS-SG-WH...

I have not decided if I want to run the 6.5's 7.7's and 10's off of the amp...

or
Connect the 6.5's to the head unit, bridge the 7.7's and run the 10's at 2 ohms like always...

Oh again, the amp is the XD700/5...

I plan to replace all of the speaker wire since it is regular wire and not speaker wire... I think this will also lead to better sound and power...
 
zdhelpmovebig128.gif
I have to run the power wires about 8 ft. from amp to batteries. So how do you protect the wiring? Fuse, breaker, or how... I wouldn’t think that these would be ignition protected? Also, how do you ground the amp in a boat? I know in a car that you ground as close to the amp as possible. ..
Car and boat stereos are more similar than different. The major difference is a boat simply does not have a great big metal frame/chassis to supply a quality ground. Your amp grounds have to go all the way to the battery.

If you have engine and/or accessory noise you may try wiring the radio power to the amp, (or the largest amp in multiple amp installs) power terminals. This provides a good common source of both 12 volt positive power and ground for both the amp and the head unit. This prevents the slight difference in ground potential that is the main cause of most boat stereo noise.

This is what the professionals have shared with me in my attemps to rid all noise in my system.
 
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Hifi is the picture your set up? I would love to see more and it looks like three amps? How much. Does that draw and how fast?
 
Jason, sorry to leave you hanging there- I was side tracked but it looks like your in good hands. PM me if you have any questions I might be able to help with, good luck- your going to love the JL stuff.
 
Jason, sorry to leave you hanging there- I was side tracked but it looks like your in good hands. PM me if you have any questions I might be able to help with, good luck- your going to love the JL stuff.
Thanks Russ, no worries man, I have been told that JL is the best so I figured if I was going to do it then I was going to go with the best. I am excited to get started two more months and I'm Back!!!
 

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