Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
So how do you protect the wiring? Fuse, breaker, --I would put an inline fuse in. Can it be put in the ER with out fear of ignition?
Also, how do you ground the amp in a boat?---I would run a dedicated ground wire to the battery. OK, Just run the 4ga back to negitive post... got it...
I also understand how to run the remote wire and rca cables... How do you set up different channels? ---This question i don't exactly understand. You buy an amp that has as many channels as you want, and you hook up the RCA wires from the deck accordingly. But dont you have to set the Highs and lows on the amp?
My plan is to run the two 10’’ subs at a 2 ohm load to produce 300watts from this amp. ---Are they actually two ohm subs? If not, you can't do this.
SEE RUSS' comments...
Hope this helps.
Sure you can Jason, wire the subs in parallel. This will give you the 2 ohm load your looking for. The rest is good, although you may consider a circuit breaker, easier but a bit more money. Pretty much the same system in my 370 if you added a XD900 and a few more speakers ;-)
It will sound great
So how do you protect the wiring? Fuse, breaker, --I would put an inline fuse in.
I am doing a similar project so I will bust into Pyrojodge's thread.....his amplifier requires a minimum of a 60A fuse within 18" of the battery connection using 4GA cable. Is there such a thing as a 60A inline fuse like that?
I can answer that, YES, I have a 100 amp in my truck for my 1200 watt audiobahn... I am just not sure if it is ignition proof... In the truck who cares, in the boat is another story...
I was going to make the 12v+ connection to my JL Audio M500/3 at the battery switch as opposed to the battery itself so I wouldn't need an ignition-proof connection but I hadn't run across anything that would work yet. I ran the 4GA cable on Friday and I need to sort this out soon.
I was thinking something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/STINGER-SCBM100-Marine-Circuit-Breaker/dp/accessories/B002LARRTE
My batt switches are in the bilge as well so that does not solve the issue... I guess the Marine circuit breaker would be ignition proof but dont want to take chances...
I am doing a similar project so I will bust into Pyrojodge's thread.....his amplifier requires a minimum of a 60A fuse within 18" of the battery connection using 4GA cable. Is there such a thing as a 60A inline fuse like that?
Blue Sea has a complete line of Ignition Protected Breakers. Here is a link :
http://bluesea.com/category/3/10/productline/overview/13
Mount breaker in line 18" from positive battery post connection.
Hifi as always you are awesome... Thanks for the link...
Phlorida... Here's my setup as I see it at the moment... (im still in development)
Head unit will be a CMD6 with the MW1 remote at the helm. The Head unit will be mounted in my Cabin.
In the cabin rear I will replace the current sony 6.5 with JL Audio MX650-CCX-CG-TB. I have forward speakers in the forward bunk but I am not sure how to get to them yet and not high on priorities right now...
Now the cockpit.
I will have a pair of JL Audio M10W5-SG-WH Subs with on opposing sides of the cockpit...
Also, the Clarion 6x9's I installed last year will be replaced with JL Audio M770-CCS-SG-WH...
I have not decided if I want to run the 6.5's 7.7's and 10's off of the amp...
or
Connect the 6.5's to the head unit, bridge the 7.7's and run the 10's at 2 ohms like always...
Oh again, the amp is the XD700/5...
I plan to replace all of the speaker wire since it is regular wire and not speaker wire... I think this will also lead to better sound and power...
That should sound great Jason, I'll look forward to hearing about your progress. I am trying to finish my project up next week.
I changed out the speaker wire also. The original speaker wire from 1995 was more like green goo than copper cable.
Car and boat stereos are more similar than different. The major difference is a boat simply does not have a great big metal frame/chassis to supply a quality ground. Your amp grounds have to go all the way to the battery.I have to run the power wires about 8 ft. from amp to batteries. So how do you protect the wiring? Fuse, breaker, or how... I wouldn’t think that these would be ignition protected? Also, how do you ground the amp in a boat? I know in a car that you ground as close to the amp as possible. ..
This may help if you DIY :Don't you have to adjust gain and other componets on the amp? or some type of adjustment? I have a great setup in my truck but one of my good friends did it for me and I just watched dont really know what he was doing? I wish he hadn't got married and moved away...oh well thats why I have you guys to pick your brains...
Thanks Russ, no worries man, I have been told that JL is the best so I figured if I was going to do it then I was going to go with the best. I am excited to get started two more months and I'm Back!!!Jason, sorry to leave you hanging there- I was side tracked but it looks like your in good hands. PM me if you have any questions I might be able to help with, good luck- your going to love the JL stuff.