Official 19SPX/21SPX/SPX190/SPX210 Thread

[GypsmJim]

I replaced all my batteries on my 330DA with AGMs several years ago and have been very happy with them.

I used to swear by Diehards, then I had 2 fail in a row, so I went to AGMs. Not just one - 4 boats, 2 lawn tractors and a classic car.

I thought they were the end-all, and then they all seemed to fail at once. They wouldn't take a charge, self discharged at a fast rate, etc.

Then I switched to Auto Zone. So far 6 years on a group 24 and its monthly discharge is almost nil.

Its all a matter of cost performance. If an AGM costs double, it has to at least last twice as long.

 

[Bridog]

No it is not higher than the drain and the drain seems to be clear.

There's been a few reports on the SPX Facebook page that their cockpit drain is routed "over" the battery. Check where yours is and follow the drainage tube. They had to have it re routed to get it to drain properly. Good luck!

 

[GypsmJim]

There's been a few reports on the SPX Facebook page that their cockpit drain is routed "over" the battery. Check where yours is and follow the drainage tube. They had to have it re routed to get it to drain properly. Good luck!

My "Cockpit drains" (2 of them) are located below the battery, and go directly to the bilge. The drain from the lip around the cooler / battery hatch does goe above the battery and out the side of the boat. Yes, its "above' the battery, but its secured very well with straps and aimed downward.

 

[GypsmJim]

I can see it (BILGE) if I open the battery compartment and stick my head inside. The only other way would be to remove the access panels from the storage compartment.

Even if I remove the battery my head is till too big (and my neck too short) to see the bilge. All I could see was what I presume was the top of the bilge pump.

I finally got to see it by removing the port cover in the splash well just forward of the engine. But even then I couldn't even see anything unless I stuck a mirror down in the compartment.

I guess if the time comes that the pump needs to be replaced, it will require removing a lot of panels in the storage compartment.

 

[ThorSen]

...make sure they are topped off with distilled water. Fill to the lower lip, usually about an inch or so down.

This is something I also need to do and check-off my list!

 

[GATORB8]

I took fg3's port seat support idea and took a little different approach.

Instead of King StarBoard, I picked up a 24x18x3/4 HPDE Commercial Cutting Board off of Amazon for $37 (less than half the price of the similar starboard). Traced the cushion base, rough cut with a jigsaw, chamfered with a router, and finished with a palm sander. The rear of the stock support angles out a little making it slightly larger than 18" in that direction, but I think it will do the job. I couldn't find a cutting board wider than 18".

I'll update with some pics in the boat next time we go out.

EDIT: Had a meeting cancel and I ran down to the slip. Functions as intended, but I didn't realize that the shape of the support on the stock cushion is modified to fit both sides as the cupholder is off center. If I was to do it again, I would have trimmed off less of the port side to take advantage of the extra room.

 

[ThorSen]

Hot dawg! We do loves us some IN-GEN-NEW-ET-TEE !

 

[fg3]

I took fg3's port seat support idea and took a little different approach.

Instead of King StarBoard, I picked up a 24x18x3/4 HPDE Commercial Cutting Board off of Amazon for $37 (less than half the price of the similar starboard). Traced the cushion base, rough cut with a jigsaw, chamfered with a router, and finished with a palm sander. The rear of the stock support angles out a little making it slightly larger than 18" in that direction, but I think it will do the job. I couldn't find a cutting board wider than 18".

I'll update with some pics in the boat next time we go out.

EDIT: Had a meeting cancel and I ran down to the slip. Functions as intended, but I didn't realize that the shape of the support on the stock cushion is modified to fit both sides as the cupholder is off center. If I was to do it again, I would have trimmed off less of the port side to take advantage of the extra room.

Nice work! Hard to believe this is so overlooked in the design of that bench seat. Another option that would work for this purpose is the King Starlite board which is a little cheaper than the Starboard. I still need to redo mine, although believe it or not the version I built from MDF is still holding up fine.

I used that Starlite board to replace the electrical panel partition under the transom walkthrough for a project I'm working on right now (quarantine sanity project). Stay tuned for more info. on that!

 

[GATORB8]

Nice work! Hard to believe this is so overlooked in the design of that bench seat. Another option that would work for this purpose is the King Starlite board which is a little cheaper than the Starboard. I still need to redo mine, although believe it or not the version I built from MDF is still holding up fine.

I used that Starlite board to replace the electrical panel partition under the transom walkthrough for a project I'm working on right now (quarantine sanity project). Stay tuned for more info. on that!

Completely agree, I’m surprised it actually held up as long as it did. Luckily my wife has made a habit of supporting it with folded towels over the years. An unfortunate side effect, I left the support cushion “stowed” this winter and am still fighting the resulting mildew stains.

Thanks for the original post, wouldn’t have thought of this relatively easy fix without it.

Look forward to your next project. The HPDE was surprisingly easy to work with. One thought I was tossing around was making a false floor for the ski locker to keep stowed items out of the residual bilge water.

 

[GypsmJim]

Completely agree, I’m surprised it actually held up as long as it did. Luckily my wife has made a habit of supporting it with folded towels over the years. An unfortunate side effect, I left the support cushion “stowed” this winter and am still fighting the resulting mildew stains.

Thanks for the original post, wouldn’t have thought of this relatively easy fix without it.

Look forward to your next project. The HPDE was surprisingly easy to work with. One thought I was tossing around was making a false floor for the ski locker to keep stowed items out of the residual bilge water.

I agree - nice job.

I see yours is a 2017 19 SPX. Ours is a 2019 model. I saw an earlier thread about reinforcing the seat so I was prepared to do the same. After looking closely at my setup, I didn't see the need. Could they have made a change in the design over the past couple of years? At any rate, we got thru our first season without any problems.

Our ski locker contains a few fishing poles, a collapsible table and a fish net. No wet skis. Haven't seen a drop in there yet. It has a rear drain plug, which I always keep in. Ours is garage kept, so we don't get rain water in the boat. Do you have a lot of bilge water?

 

[GATORB8]

I agree - nice job.

I see yours is a 2017 19 SPX. Ours is a 2019 model. I saw an earlier thread about reinforcing the seat so I was prepared to do the same. After looking closely at my setup, I didn't see the need. Could they have made a change in the design over the past couple of years? At any rate, we got thru our first season without any problems.

Our ski locker contains a few fishing poles, a collapsible table and a fish net. No wet skis. Haven't seen a drop in there yet. It has a rear drain plug, which I always keep in. Ours is garage kept, so we don't get rain water in the boat. Do you have a lot of bilge water?

I assume they corrected the seat support setup, ours was concerning even with my smaller wife when unsupported.

Our boat is full time on a lift in the slip, it's uncovered (other than the canvas) so it gets a good amount of rainwater. The lift doesn't allow the natural slope the boat has when floating, so it tends to collect in a few spots. I've always left out the plug in the locker to allow it to drain, but maybe I'll see if it helps to keep it in.

 

[Bridog]

I agree - nice job.

I see yours is a 2017 19 SPX. Ours is a 2019 model. I saw an earlier thread about reinforcing the seat so I was prepared to do the same. After looking closely at my setup, I didn't see the need. Could they have made a change in the design over the past couple of years? At any rate, we got thru our first season without any problems.

Jim, when your Port lounger seat is in full seating position, is the aft cushion supported MOSTLY on one side by the piano hinge? If so, you should add extra support. I did mine on the cheap with pressure treated lumber at HD. Still going strong!

 

[mcerasa]

I’m getting my 190SPX OB next week. Does anyone know the dimensions of the large storage area under the sun pad where the inboard would be? I’m looking at extra coolers to put in there and want to know what would fit. Thanks!

 

[Trosy29]

I took fg3's port seat support idea and took a little different approach.

Instead of King StarBoard, I picked up a 24x18x3/4 HPDE Commercial Cutting Board off of Amazon for $37 (less than half the price of the similar starboard). Traced the cushion base, rough cut with a jigsaw, chamfered with a router, and finished with a palm sander. The rear of the stock support angles out a little making it slightly larger than 18" in that direction, but I think it will do the job. I couldn't find a cutting board wider than 18".

I'll update with some pics in the boat next time we go out.

EDIT: Had a meeting cancel and I ran down to the slip. Functions as intended, but I didn't realize that the shape of the support on the stock cushion is modified to fit both sides as the cupholder is off center. If I was to do it again, I would have trimmed off less of the port side to take advantage of the extra room.

GATORB8,

I just ordered some 1/2" thick Seaboard to fabricate some inserts for the bow seat holes to create a deck (similar to the All Sport Package).

I will have some material left over and would like to make this seat support. Do you think the 1/2" material will be too thin? Better than nothing? Just looking for your opinion.

Thanks!

 

[GATORB8]

GATORB8,

I just ordered some 1/2" thick Seaboard to fabricate some inserts for the bow seat holes to create a deck (similar to the All Sport Package).

I will have some material left over and would like to make this seat support. Do you think the 1/2" material will be too thin? Better than nothing? Just looking for your opinion.

Thanks!

I used 3/4 because it matched the base from the stock seat. It's a reasonably snug fit, so you may be able to get away with 1/2", but you may get some rattling if it's a little loose. If it ends up loose, maybe a good answer would be to find something that you could use on the contact points with the base, and would give you some cushion/grip and make up for the 1/4". Maybe there's a marine version similar to regular one sided foam tape?

Not sure if you saw my note, but if you just trace the seat base, it doesn't actually fill the whole opening. You may want to extend the area right by the cup holder so it takes up the entire space.

 

[Trosy29]

Thanks for the input. Good idea with the foam tape direction. Maybe I'll try some 1/8" or 1/4" adhesive backed rubber feet for the contact edges.

I did see your note regarding the seat base. I think I will use the seat base and trace on cardboard, and then free hand the area that you highlighted in yellow, cut the cardboard to fit and then template out on the Seaboard.

Thanks again for you input.

 

[Trosy29]

Has anybody completed the front fishing deck modification on their SPX?

I completed two of the pieces last night. Sadly, I think I am going to have to make them again.

Per the parts catalog, these deck pieces (4 in total) can be purchased for about $700-$800. I thought I would save some $ and make myself. Problem is I used 1/2" thick Seaboard. I get too much deflection in these two pieces to function. I think the 1/2" will work for the pieces on the port a starboard sides as they are fully supported on all sides and only about 12" wide at the widest point. I did think about marrying the two together with another piece of Seaboard attached to the bottom of both pieces. Problem with that, is then the piece is too large to store within the rear storage area.

Just wondering if anyone has completed using 3/4" material and whether or not there is any deflection in these pieces.

I think I ended up making 2 really expensive templates for the 3/4" material.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Troy, that looks very nice. Don't scrap your work, just yet. Get a piece of fiberglass or PVC L-channel (or box). A single length (width-wise) of that on each piece (possibly one more attached to one of the pieces where the two meet will be all you will need). The piece only needs to be about 3/4 the width of each piece - doesn't have to go completely side to side. 1" or 1-1/2" L-channel will work perfectly. You can get aluminum L-channel at HD - or the plastic stuff at a place like Macmaster Carr online.

 

[Trosy29]

Troy, that looks very nice. Don't scrap your work, just yet. Get a piece of fiberglass or PVC L-channel (or box). A single length (width-wise) of that on each piece (possibly one more attached to one of the pieces where the two meet will be all you will need). The piece only needs to be about 3/4 the width of each piece - doesn't have to go completely side to side. 1" or 1-1/2" L-channel will work perfectly. You can get aluminum L-channel at HD - or the plastic stuff at a place like Macmaster Carr online.

Thanks for the advise Lazy Daze...

This for Aluminum "L"?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...GzDgojiMSYGIU3zOD0YaAnbWEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Are you saying something as simple at this crude cross section?

 

[Lazy Daze]

Yup, you got the idea. The middle L would need to be wide enough to allow for thru-bolts (not too close to the edge of the SB) yet still have enough surface area for support. Possibly a larger L... you could always trim the vertical section so it's not so long.

Personally, I'd go with fiberglass of PVC - just to avoid possible scratching. But functionally, they would all work.