KevinC
Well-Known Member
Sounds good - I think I know which one I am going with. The Marineaire 14K looks good and they set me up as a dealer. Just need to work out a few small details on install.
-Kevin
Sounds good - I think I know which one I am going with. The Marineaire 14K looks good and they set me up as a dealer. Just need to work out a few small details on install.
-Kevin
KevinC
Well-Known Member
KevinC
Well-Known Member
Quick question... looks like I am putting in the 14K Marineaire. How did you connect the round outlet to the duct box? Also any other fitment issues as it is a little bigger than the old 12K but looks like it will work out nice. I am guessing the hoses may not reach.
-Kevin
liv2ryde100
Active Member
Oh man it was a neighbors tie up everyone there lives within a couple houses of each other on my canal !!! Next time we do one I’ll let u know... Looks like fun and you did not invite me
-Kevin
KevinC
Well-Known Member
Appreciate it and would love to swing by when my A/C is finally working - but I was just bustin' your shoes.
-Kevin
liv2ryde100
Active Member
Do us all a favor and take a lot pics during that install lol. See ya Friday if that works for u
KevinC
Well-Known Member
KevinC
Well-Known Member
liv2ryde100
Active Member
Pick what time works for u I’m off all day
Tacoma290
Active Member
I used tin snips to enlarge the original opening on the ductbox to a round shape, then mounted flanged round adaptor on the ductbox (I cut lines radially then bent them out to accept the flanges fitting; then I used silver duct tape inside and outside to ensure the assembly was air tight). I ran flexduct from the round adaptor on the ductbox to the outlet of the AC unit. This relocated the box. I can grab a photo this afternoon.
Tacoma290
Active Member
I also rotated the AC unit compared to the original install. It made connecting the ducts and piping easier.
KevinC
Well-Known Member
A picture would certainly be helpful. I was thinking about using a 6" round to 6"square transition and screwing to sides of the box. I am also getting pictures of this from another CSR member who has that in their cockpit A/C.
-Kevin
KevinC
Well-Known Member
So, are you saying the A/C unit faces the back instead of the front? If so how is access to the filter and do you have enough clearance in front of the unit for air circulation?
-Kevin
Tacoma290
Active Member
Yes. There is plenty of access for air movement and filter change. That whole area where the unit is mounted is a giant air plenum, and as long as the inlet to the unit is not blocked, it works well. I will grab a couple of photos tonight.
KevinC
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Yes it makes sense I was just worried about accessing the filter from the rear. Look forward to the pics.
If you had to do it over again would you buy the same unit? Is is much quieter than the old one and does it move more air through the vents for cooling with the larger fan?
-Kevin
Fly4Kix
Active Member
- Jan 27, 2008
- 125
- Boat Info
- 2005 Sea Ray 220 SD
2008 Sea Ray 340 DA
- Engines
- 5.0L B3
8.1L
@KevinC the previous owner installed the same unit, although his ductwork wasn't as elegant as I'd like or what I think you're planning. A word of advice here, change the nylon/plastic drain fitting to brass. It's 1/2" NPT to 5/8" barb. We started getting water into the forward underfloor stoarage area a couple weeks ago, after tracking it down I found the original outlet had broken off flush with the unit and condensate water was pooling in the low points of the a/c compartment. I emailed Marinaire about the fitting and they responded with the size and a link to purchase the brass one at Home Depot.
KevinC
Well-Known Member
Tacoma290
Active Member
Yes I would install the same unit again. Seems more quiet to me than the original. Here are the photos of my install.
The second picture shows that there is plenty of room for the filter which faces forward, the duct is only near the filter for the top inch. The main reason for the rotated install was to avoid adding extra couplers for the drain and water piping. I view every pipe joint as a possible future leak.
This rotation meant that I also needed a duct coupler to extend from the existing port side duct to the new location of the ductbox.
Photo of the top for orienting:
Another photo of the top, to show the space between the port side duct and the intake filter:
Close shot of the starboard side, with the relocated and adapted ductbox (after this shot, I did relocate the temperature sensor which is the small gray item on the upper right hand side of the image. I relocated it to be in the cabin; I noticed that the sensor was too close to the ductbox and sensed too much of the outside temperature of the ductbox):
Close shot of the Stbd side, with the factory waste and water connections; It also shows the control box, that I mounted on the back side of the wood return opening from the cabin:
KevinC
Well-Known Member
Yes I would install the same unit again. Seems more quiet to me than the original. Here are the photos of my install.
The second picture shows that there is plenty of room for the filter which faces forward, the duct is only near the filter for the top inch. The main reason for the rotated install was to avoid adding extra couplers for the drain and water piping. I view every pipe joint as a possible future leak.
This rotation meant that I also needed a duct coupler to extend from the existing port side duct to the new location of the ductbox.
Photo of the top for orienting:
Another photo of the top, to show the space between the port side duct and the intake filter:
Close shot of the starboard side, with the relocated and adapted ductbox (after this shot, I did relocate the temperature sensor which is the small gray item on the upper right hand side of the image. I relocated it to be in the cabin; I noticed that the sensor was too close to the ductbox and sensed too much of the outside temperature of the ductbox):
Close shot of the Stbd side, with the factory waste and water connections; It also shows the control box, that I mounted on the back side of the wood return opening from the cabin:
Looks pretty neat tucked in there that way.
-Kevin
Matt1261
New Member
Hello again everyone. So over the past year I have done a ton of preventative maintenance work that has been neglected by the past two owners. Seems to me like they just pushed the start buttons and went. Manifolds, shaft seals, transmission rebuild, rudders repacked, shafts and props sent out for servicing and oil/tranny coolers. I thought I was done, but after this past week I noticed some (not alot) of water in the bilge but noticed salt build up just below the starboard heat exchanger. It looks like salt water is being slinged around due to the serpentine belt. Reason I suspect that is there is a mark on the underside for the exhaust hose. Can anyone tell me if they dealt with an issue like this before? And what can i do to fix this issue.
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