Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

When I got my boat I had the same problem. I had to reset the ambient temperature and then everything worked like it should. The sensor is in front of the unit and measure air flow in so I measured it using an IR meter. I have the instructions on my boat and I will get them the next time I go down but it was a pretty simple procedure at the controller.

-Kevin
 
Make sure to clean the screen filter in front of the coils at the AC unit. (All I do is hose it off on the dock.) When the screen gets clogged air flow reduces and the coils will freeze themselves without the warmer air flowing over them.

-Kevin
 
Updated the avionics on my boat, finally complete. I've added the following, Raymarine e97, a75, Quantum Radome, Raystar 130, and VesselView 4. I'll give my wallet a rest now....although....my autopilot could go through an "Evolution"ary change....hmmmm

View attachment 46262
 
sfergson727 said:
Updated the avionics on my boat, finally complete. I've added the following, Raymarine e97, a75, Quantum Radome, Raystar 130, and VesselView 4. I'll give my wallet a rest now....although....my autopilot could go through an "Evolution"ary change....hmmmm

View attachment 46262
Click to expand...
Hey Scott. That looks great. I'm considering taking my original northstar setup to almost those exact same components. Do you have a walk through thread by any chance with gotchas and tips?
 
HI guys , does the forward acc. Button on the port side panel
operate the stereo ??? My radio won't turn on and I did not try that switch ???
 
estoltz said:
Hey Scott. That looks great. I'm considering taking my original northstar setup to almost those exact same components. Do you have a walk through thread by any chance with gotchas and tips?
Click to expand...

The install was pretty straight forward. Here is some notes though...The Quantum radome is larger in diameter than the old series, so you will have to move your navigation light from the radome mount to the top of the arch. The arch itself, is nothing more than balsa wood covered in gel coat, so make sure you use plenty of sealant. If I had to do it over again, (and I may very well do it this winter) is use epoxy to make plugs for the drill holes, ensuring that water intrusion will never be a player.

I was unable to make my raystar 125 work with the new equipment, and raymarine discontinued the cable that would have made it function. The MFD's have a built in GPS antenna, which seemed to work fine however. In the end, I opted to install a Raystar 130 (using the same mount) as I didn't want to risk a loss of signal when I needed it most.

The new sea talk backbone makes connecting all the displays and accessories together a piece of cake. I did need a special adapter (sold by raymarine) for the transducer, the autopilot and bezel for the e97 to make it fit the hole left by the e80. The vessel view 4 was plug and play as well, and I am still trying to navigate around the differences between the old and the new. I do have the common error code for the fuel tanks, as the 340 was wired for 4 fuel tanks, even though we only have two. There is a separate thread on how to fix that issue.

All in all, I am thrilled with the new equipment, and being able to have two screens on the same network splitting up the displays, is a great tool. As shown above, I was able to run radar on the center screen, and navigation on the larger...but since the two are networked, they both have full functionality of all features.
 
see ray said:
HI guys , does the forward acc. Button on the port side panel
operate the stereo ??? My radio won't turn on and I did not try that switch ???
Click to expand...


No, there is a specific stereo button on the starboard panel that has the shape of a speaker on it. Also, there are two switches at the cabin door for the amps, one for cockpit, the other for cabin.
 
Re: 2003.5-2008 340 Sundacer Thread

Can anyone enlighten me on how to replace the engine exhaust water shutters? I need the part numbers (if you have them) and what's involved to do the job? My rubber inside them spins causing the shutter to turn at will in circles.....
 
Want to grease the port side engine hatch actuator. I can grease the starboard side but the port side grease fitting is very close to the holding tank and even with a L nipple can't fit there the greaser unless breaking the holding tank.

So I'll try to disasemble the port actuator from top and bottom connections while hatch support leg opened but will it hold the load of port side of hatch since it is offset to starboard ?

Any other tips to grease port ?
 
melida said:
Want to grease the port side engine hatch actuator. I can grease the starboard side but the port side grease fitting is very close to the holding tank and even with a L nipple can't fit there the greaser unless breaking the holding tank.

So I'll try to disasemble the port actuator from top and bottom connections while hatch support leg opened but will it hold the load of port side of hatch since it is offset to starboard ?

Any other tips to grease port ?
Click to expand...

I can reach the grease fitting on mine but I have I/Os so there may be more room. I wouldn't trust supporting the hatch on just on the metal support. Put a piece of lumber cut to size to support the top and then lower the hatch into it. The Actuator will come loose and you can remove the pins to service the grease fitting.
 
Jeremygavin said:
I can reach the grease fitting on mine but I have I/Os so there may be more room. I wouldn't trust supporting the hatch on just on the metal support. Put a piece of lumber cut to size to support the top and then lower the hatch into it. The Actuator will come loose and you can remove the pins to service the grease fitting.
Click to expand...

Thanks.
 
melida said:
Want to grease the port side engine hatch actuator. I can grease the starboard side but the port side grease fitting is very close to the holding tank and even with a L nipple can't fit there the greaser unless breaking the holding tank.

So I'll try to disasemble the port actuator from top and bottom connections while hatch support leg opened but will it hold the load of port side of hatch since it is offset to starboard ?

Any other tips to grease port ?
Click to expand...

I'm looking to do the same. My plan is to change the grease fitting with a 90 degree fitting. Not sure why they didn't do this from the factory.
 
saopm said:
I'm looking to do the same. My plan is to change the grease fitting with a 90 degree fitting. Not sure why they didn't do this from the factory.
Click to expand...

Good tip, will do the same, thanks.
 
Give Algonac Cast a call with your HIN at 810-794-9391. They were likely the manufacturer of the strut and should be able to tell you what bearings you need.
 
saopm said:
I'm looking to do the same. My plan is to change the grease fitting with a 90 degree fitting. Not sure why they didn't do this from the factory.
Click to expand...

That's on our agenda too.
 
Hi guys , I would like to share a discovery I came upon!
i found out the the cabin/cockpit fridge rack s are rubberized
powder coated , so we took some rusty shelves to a powder coater
of small parts and MC parts and ,they stripped the 2 cockpit fridge shelves and recoated the shelves with rubberized coating. They look like new !!!
And the the cost was less then $50, for the one fridge , the two rack from the original
supplier was $150 for both !!!
 
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