Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Hi fellow 330 owners. I have a 330 specific question to ask you all. I notice on my engine hatch that there are two connection points. One forward and one aft. My actuator is connected to the forward one and while it provides enough access to get at things for daily checks I would love to have a bit more height if I have to get down there to check strainers, batteries, etc...

If I connect to the aft point what do I need to watch out for when lifting the hatch? I imagine the aft seat needs to fold down as I don't know if the legs will be able to handle that extreme angle.

Is there anything wrong with leaving it on the aft point? Will it still close OK?

Just wondering as I never moved it and since my PO has it permanently bolted to the forward point (yes its on my list to try and find a pin to put in there with a ring to secure it) I though there had to be a reason.

Thanks all!!!
 
1) You need to remove the aft seat completely before moving the engine hatch to the vertical position.

2) You cannot leave it on the aft point as the angles are too great and the actuator is not powerful enough to move the cover.

3) As far as I can make out the aft position is just to open up the cover to give full access.

Rgds/Merry Christmas, Nick
 
1) You need to remove the aft seat completely before moving the engine hatch to the vertical position.

2) You cannot leave it on the aft point as the angles are too great and the actuator is not powerful enough to move the cover.

3) As far as I can make out the aft position is just to open up the cover to give full access.

Rgds/Merry Christmas, Nick

Thanks Nick!!! Much appreciated!!!
 
1) You need to remove the aft seat completely before moving the engine hatch to the vertical position.

2) You cannot leave it on the aft point as the angles are too great and the actuator is not powerful enough to move the cover.

3) As far as I can make out the aft position is just to open up the cover to give full access.

Rgds/Merry Christmas, Nick

I respectfully disagree with 1 & 2 but agree with #3. The V drive 330 ER is it's major downfall IMO.

If you take the cushion off the aft seat, it moves just fine until a certain point when the legs pop out and the seat scrapes the deck. It's about a 1" drop. Not great, but not a deal breaker.

At 6'4" and over 1/2 a century old, I MUST leave it at the aft hinge point to lift the hatch high enough to getget my fat old arse in the bilge to tend to even daily routine matters. I'm sure it's more the latter than the former!
It does indeed take a LOT more juice to overcome the force, but it is doable. I find it is easiest to have someone hold the switch and a second person assist the hatch. When alone, I place a heavy object on the switch and lift the hatch until the angle of attack is almost veritcal then go back to the switch and lift the remainder of the way.


If you haven't lubricated the actuator arm, do so as a part of routine pre-flight checks. The amount of crap that builds up on the actuator will stop it dead. Ditto the center windshield vent. Just a couple of swipes with an oily rag is all it takes. At times I use the rag I wipe the oil off the dipsitck to do it. Not the best option, but the purpose is to keep it lubed. Wipe off any excess with the a dry part of the same rag.

When it comes time to replace the actuator, look to Bennett. Theirs is hydraulic.
 
Has anybody replaced the original TV/VCR combo that is mounted on the slide out swivel base with an LCD TV on their 330? Where and how did you mount your LCD? What did you do with the big hole where the old TV lived? If you have pictures of your project please post them.

Santa brought me a 22" LCD, and I'm trying to figure out where its home on the boat will be. Any ideas you guys have would be appreciated.
 
Well I replaced our TV with a 15" LCD/DVD combo that is both AC and 12V powered. It fits width wise perfectly in the space. It of course is too low to cover the whole opening but the opening is painted black so its really not noticable to me...anyway.

I mounted the tv by screwing two pieces of angle/cabinet corner supports to the black wood on the swivel. Then I cut and bolted two pieces of angled channel similar to the type used to mount your garage door opening, matter of fact that is where I got the piece. I bolted that to the back of the tv and bolted it to the corner braces. It was pretty simple. I then very careful took a note from the original install by Sea Ray and screwed two wood screws up from underneath the TV so that they screw into the cabinet and hold it tight and flush to the sliding wood shelf. I made sure that I only had about 1/8" going into the TV and that where the screws were at were clear spaces inside the TV.

In your case your 22 won't sit flush in the opening. So you need to mount the TV so that is is just touching the surround when the shelf is latched. Not hard to do. You may also want to just use two pieces of 2x4 secured to the shelf and then just the angles mounted to that.

There is a post from the 370 owners where they replaced the TV and used the 2x4 route and that looks very sturdy too.

Down side to the LCD is viewing angle is a trade off. Laying in the forward berth you need up the brightness so that the image is not dark..

I don't have any pics of what I did but it was simlar to the 370 thread.
 
Has anybody replaced the original TV/VCR combo that is mounted on the slide out swivel base with an LCD TV on their 330? Where and how did you mount your LCD? What did you do with the big hole where the old TV lived? If you have pictures of your project please post them.

Santa brought me a 22" LCD, and I'm trying to figure out where its home on the boat will be. Any ideas you guys have would be appreciated.

Hello LTD.330-
Here are some photos of what I have done in my 330.
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13338&page=3
Good luck with the project!
S
 
Carpemman, your solution of mounting the TV to an L-bracket on the slide out base is a great idea. I'll have to give that one a shot in the spring. Thanks!
 
As for the ER hatch actuator, here's what I did: I moved the forward mounting bracket aft a few inches. This allows the hatch to open father (I can get in and out), but the ram still has enough power to open it. I positioned the mount so at max lift, the hatch cleared the pull out step on the port side. <I pull the aft bench seat cushion forward just a few inches to aid in clearance>

Also in time where I need the hatch 100% open, I remove the bench seat, open the hatch to max lift, then hold the hatch, pull the pin, push the hatch open, and the ram will fit in the aft mount, slide in the pin, and it will hold it open.
 
Carpemman, your solution of mounting the TV to an L-bracket on the slide out base is a great idea. I'll have to give that one a shot in the spring. Thanks!

Glad you like this mount. One thing I just thought of is I think my new TV is a 19". Not sure if a 22" will fit in the same way. Check the clearances. Good luck with your project!
 
As for the ER hatch actuator, here's what I did: I moved the forward mounting bracket aft a few inches. This allows the hatch to open father (I can get in and out), but the ram still has enough power to open it. I positioned the mount so at max lift, the hatch cleared the pull out step on the port side. <I pull the aft bench seat cushion forward just a few inches to aid in clearance>

Also in time where I need the hatch 100% open, I remove the bench seat, open the hatch to max lift, then hold the hatch, pull the pin, push the hatch open, and the ram will fit in the aft mount, slide in the pin, and it will hold it open.

Thanks I'll look at that in the spring. I understand your point on clearing the step that is what I use as a guide when opening it up! I will search out a real pin as the PO has the actuator bolted to the attachment point and well that scares me as it is a nightmare waiting to happen when the actuator fails...
 
Glad you like this mount. One thing I just thought of is I think my new TV is a 19". Not sure if a 22" will fit in the same way. Check the clearances. Good luck with your project!
Yeah, that is definitely a concern. I know there is a few inches of space between the bulkhead by the galley and the opening where the current TV sits, hopefully there is enough room as I'll most likely offset the mount of the TV on the swivel mount.
 
I know there has been talk of moisture in the extended swim platform on these mid '90's 330's ('96). Does anyone have any pic's of theirs while they were being repaired? Getting ready to tackle ours. Also, how was access to the bolts/nuts in the engine compt.? Thx, Mark
 
Carpemman, your solution of mounting the TV to an L-bracket on the slide out base is a great idea. I'll have to give that one a shot in the spring. Thanks!
I did the same thing Tom did. I replaced the tube tv with a 15" Toshiba lcd /dvd combo. I was able to screw the tv stand right to the original swivel base. Mounted the satellite receiver right behind that. All other stuff was mounted on the bulkhead by the galley. I could prob give you some pics if it helps. I also heard of other people mounting the tv on the wall over th aft cabin. This is a project I may undertake in the future. Pm me if you need pics.... Todd
 
Added area to our '96 330 Sundancer trim tabs. Added about 50 % area, Bennet says should be alright with the actuators in place. Anxious for water to thaw out so we can try them.:smt001
 

Attachments

  • sundancer trim tabs 001.jpg
    sundancer trim tabs 001.jpg
    122.6 KB · Views: 638
  • sundancer trim tabs 003.jpg
    sundancer trim tabs 003.jpg
    116.7 KB · Views: 636
  • sundancer trim tabs 005.jpg
    sundancer trim tabs 005.jpg
    119.5 KB · Views: 647
Cockpit heater access

I have the cockpit heat option on my 330. I think the exchanger is under the helm seat, but I am not sure how to access it. I have a feeling there may be a small leak in the exchanger. If anyone has accessed this, please let me know the "trick"
 
Re: Cockpit heater access

I have the cockpit heat option on my 330. I think the exchanger is under the helm seat, but I am not sure how to access it. I have a feeling there may be a small leak in the exchanger. If anyone has accessed this, please let me know the "trick"
I started a thread with a similar topic and got some good feedback. Maybe you could PM one of these guys for an answer.....Todd http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27139:thumbsup:
 
Has anyone out there got a Searay 330 DA with 1 1/2 inch shafts as it would appear that this boat was normally supplied with 1 1/4 inch dia. shafts.

If there is anyone out there with 1 1/2 inch dia. shafts do you know what the taper is as I need to order new props and Hauling out the boat just to measure is a PITA for me to do.

Also I am considering adding a "camper canvass" to my boat and would be interested to hear of anyone who has undergone this excersize and any pictures would be very welcome.

Regards

TC
 
Last edited:
I need to replace the gas shock on my transom locker hatch. Does anybody know what the replacement size of the shock is?

Thanks.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,247
Messages
1,429,189
Members
61,123
Latest member
Tim Duncan
Back
Top