Official 370 Sundancer thread

[BigRay370]

It plugs into the control box...

 

[Yachta]

It plugs into the control box...

Thank you for your response and photo.

 

[TN370]

Anyone know how to remove the aft marine air unit? Seems the cabinet with the two drawers has to come out. But not seeing any obvious screws to get it loose.
Also anyone happen to know the btu of that unit?

 

[370Dancer]

Anyone know how to remove the aft marine air unit? Seems the cabinet with the two drawers has to come out. But not seeing any obvious screws to get it loose.
Also anyone happen to know the btu of that unit?

Not the whole cabinet.
Pull the drawers, and you will see that the frame for the drawers can be unscrewed from the side walls of the cabinet. Then, you pull that out as a unit. That will give you clearance to get the old unit out.
If memory serves, the aft unit was 12K and the forward unit was a 9K.
I replaced mine with a 16Kbtu in the rear, and 12Kbtu in the vee berth. MarineAire units with built in pressure gauges.
They have been flawless for quite a number of years. Hope I didn't just jinx myself.
The 16K was definitely a tight fit, but it did fit. I can post a link to some photos of after.

 

[Yachta]

Not the whole cabinet.
Pull the drawers, and you will see that the frame for the drawers can be unscrewed from the side walls of the cabinet. Then, you pull that out as a unit. That will give you clearance to get the old unit out.
If memory serves, the aft unit was 12K and the forward unit was a 9K.
I replaced mine with a 16Kbtu in the rear, and 12Kbtu in the vee berth. MarineAire units with built in pressure gauges.
They have been flawless for quite a number of years. Hope I didn't just jinx myself.
The 16K was definitely a tight fit, but it did fit. I can post a link to some photos of after.

I do not know the BTU's I have a picture of of the id tag but the BTU is not showing go figure. Our boat is a 1996 and the unit is a Cruisair Model SX7-N5 the capacity is 7000

 

[KK2020]

Ji Andy, well yes a little meticulous but I am also pretty anal about things being perfect...lol, The part that has taken the longest has been to remove the old glue from the carpet to try and get down to a clean smooth fiberglass deck for the new flooring. We also had to do some "fairing" to level the floor since we are putting down a Plasteak flooring and we wanted an absolutely perfectly smooth floor. With out the carpet all 3 deck hatches have to be replaced since they would be too small for the openings. Tearing it out wasn't bad or wouldn't have been too bad had it nor been for me wanting to save each piece as a template for the replacement carpet. Since I am not a carpet layer5 I wanted every advantage that I could get. A lot of this was a "learn as we go" project since I wasn't sure how some things were originally installed. This blog has been a tremendous help in learning the construction/deconstruction details. So, hours into it??? I wish I could work 8 hours a day on it but I usually only get 4-5 when I get to it...lol So here goes:
New curtains (thanks to my wife)...She had to deconstruct the old ones to use as patterns for the new and this whole process probably took her 12 hours as she is a GOOD seamstress but curtains were not her specialty, especially these with 2 different fabrics we chose and the special bunching that Sea Ray did originally.
Seat cushions are at the upholstery shop as we speak. New fabric was $400 and the work to be done will cost $700,These are going to look GREAT!
Master berth bolsters: 20 minutes to get them all out, 2 hours to remove all the FRIGGIN staples they used ( I think the boat just lost 100 lbs...lol), 2 hours to reupholster them all and 1 hour to install. New rope lighting 1 hour.
Carpet removal: Once I figured out the secret or the proper tool to use this was a breeze but I wasted 4 hours doing it wrong. Not including the "learning" time the carpet can come up in a few hours, maybe faster if you are not trying to save pieces as patterns. I have 8-10 hours into this part of the project.
Pattern matching the carpet to the old pieces: 3 hours
Re-carpet master berth, 1.5
Removing glue from floor: I'll bet I have 8 hours into this along with the fairing and leveling process. If I was putting carpet back down you can pretty much delete a lot of this time.
Steps with new lighting (Removal, cleaning, patterning and molding the trim to fit the curves 4 hours). Pics of this are forthcoming.
Mid Berth teak filler cushion supports...these were a bugger and it took an hour to get them off. Sea Ray stripped the screws when installing this so it was a real B I T # $...I didn't want to damage the teak so I took more time...2 hours.
Mid Berth carpet install trim, fit and glue...2 hours
Making a template of the entire cabin sole out of mylar..4 hours...you CAN'T screw this step up...lol
Cutting the NEW flooring...out of everything this was the scariest part and I did it last night, (you can see the new pics I just posted at the same link as the previous post). I can either get it right or it will cost me $900 to order a new piece. I will dry fit it today..PRAY for me please. 3 hours
Amount of time it took to decide on the fabric colors 3 weeks of looking and thinking.
Time needed to decide on flooring type and color...we started looking at carpet in August..went round and round with carpet dealers, installers and the amount of opinions was so varied we couldn't decide. We finally decided on the Plasteak flooring 3 weeks ago for the main cabin sole. A lot of research and discussions went into this, a lot of thinking on how to actually install it and get it right...countless hours...LOL

So to date, not including "thinking time"...we have about 60 hours in to it since Labor day. Obviously we don't get to it everyday. In the middle of that we had some fiberglass repairs done at a shop and some engine work done so it has been hit and miss so to speak. We are almost done with the flooring but I am guessing I will have 4-5 hours into trimming out the hatches alone so that they look perfect etc.

Can you tell me how to get the berth headboard out? I cannot find the mount screws, did you have to cut the fabric? can you preserve the rope lights?

 

[TheWolfTC]

Can you tell me how to get the berth headboard out? I cannot find the mount screws, did you have to cut the fabric? can you preserve the rope lights?

The Fwd. berth headboard should be held on by "Christmas trees", but I never took it off personally. Yes, you can preserve the rope lights, but mine were old/yellow and many lights were burnt out so it didn't make sense to try and save it.

 

[Yachta]

I am replacing my VHF radio and antenna in our 1996 370 DA. I have the antenna installed but ran into a roadblock running the new antenna cable. The old antenna cable is zip tied and secured with a screw in multiple places so I cant a attach the new cable to the old one and simply pull it through. I may be able to get at the cable if I could figure out how to remove the panel (cup holder area) next to the power seat at the helm. Any suggestions on how to run the cable would be great appreciated.

 

[TheWolfTC]

I am replacing my VHF radio and antenna in our 1996 370 DA. I have the antenna installed but ran into a roadblock running the new antenna cable. The old antenna cable is zip tied and secured with a screw in multiple places so I cant a attach the new cable to the old one and simply pull it through. I may be able to get at the cable if I could figure out how to remove the panel (cup holder area) next to the power seat at the helm. Any suggestions on how to run the cable would be great appreciated.

Well, this was NOT a fun job when I did it. Recalling from memory, I was never able to get the side console (cup holder) out...the entire bench would need to be removed. There should be an access panel in the compartment behind the helm seat, stbd. side. To make things easier, I made that access hole larger and then made a new cover for it out of Starboard material.

Making that hole bigger allowed me to lay in the storage locker and reach my arm up to the bottom of the arch wherein I could cut the zip ties from around the bulky wire conglomeration. I used a hooked razor blade to cut the zips. At that point it was smooth sailing...assuming you have a circular access hole in the arch.(?)

 

[TN370]

Well, this was NOT a fun job when I did it. Recalling from memory, I was never able to get the side console (cup holder) out...the entire bench would need to be removed. There should be an access panel in the compartment behind the helm seat, stbd. side. To make things easier, I made that access hole larger and then made a new cover for it out of Starboard material.

Making that hole bigger allowed me to lay in the storage locker and reach my arm up to the bottom of the arch wherein I could cut the zip ties from around the bulky wire conglomeration. I used a hooked razor blade to cut the zips. At that point it was smooth sailing...assuming you have a circular access hole in the arch.(?)

yeah what Wolf said. The whole bench has to come out to get that cup holder panel off. But I’ve been able to pull wires using the access under the bench and thru where the subwoofer is. Not fun but possible.

 

[TN370]

Does anyone know how to change the power to the raw water pump for the HVAC units? To have it come on when powering the forward unit instead of the aft unit?
I noticed that there’s a hot wire on the beaker for the aft unit that’s not on the forward breaker. I swapped that wire thinking that had to be the power for the pump. But didn’t kick on. Sooo ‍

 

[Yachta]

Well, this was NOT a fun job when I did it. Recalling from memory, I was never able to get the side console (cup holder) out...the entire bench would need to be removed. There should be an access panel in the compartment behind the helm seat, stbd. side. To make things easier, I made that access hole larger and then made a new cover for it out of Starboard material.

Making that hole bigger allowed me to lay in the storage locker and reach my arm up to the bottom of the arch wherein I could cut the zip ties from around the bulky wire conglomeration. I used a hooked razor blade to cut the zips. At that point it was smooth sailing...assuming you have a circular access hole in the arch.(?)

I will have to take a closer look at that storage area behind the helm seat as I didn't see anything but will look closer now. Good news is a did have circular access on the arch.

yeah what Wolf said. The whole bench has to come out to get that cup holder panel off. But I’ve been able to pull wires using the access under the bench and thru where the subwoofer is. Not fun but possible.

Thank you!!! I may have to find a skinnier person then me to assist. I appreciate your input.

 

[TheWolfTC]

Does anyone know how to change the power to the raw water pump for the HVAC units? To have it come on when powering the forward unit instead of the aft unit?
I noticed that there’s a hot wire on the beaker for the aft unit that’s not on the forward breaker. I swapped that wire thinking that had to be the power for the pump. But didn’t kick on. Sooo ‍

It could be in the Dometic control panel. There is a relay in their for each AC unit. Check that before you start trying to re-wire. It is a small component that triggers the pump when air is called for.
Since the forward air isn’t triggering the pump to cycle this is most likely the culprit. I can get you a link to the part a little later today.

 

[TN370]

It could be in the Dometic control panel. There is a relay in their for each AC unit. Check that before you start trying to re-wire. It is a small component that triggers the pump when air is called for.
Since the forward air isn’t triggering the pump to cycle this is most likely the culprit. I can get you a link to the part a little later today.

well my forward air was replaced with a webesto unit. But seems I read somewhere that the aft unit has to have power for the pump to run. Does that sound right?
I’m having issues with my aft unit and plan to replace it soon too. But for now I’d just like to figure out how to get the pump to run when no power to the aft unit. So I can just cut it off at the breaker.

 

[kap2]

well my forward air was replaced with a webesto unit. But seems I read somewhere that the aft unit has to have power for the pump to run. Does that sound right?
I’m having issues with my aft unit and plan to replace it soon too. But for now I’d just like to figure out how to get the pump to run when no power to the aft unit. So I can just cut it off at the breaker.

You are correct, the AC pump's power comes from the aft AC unit's circuit breaker. The Dometic control box should be located under the salon sofa near/on the aft bulkhead. There is a small electronic circuit board and relay that will turn on the pump when either the forward or aft AC kicks on. So that is where the pump's AC voltage connection resides.

Good luck!

 

[TN370]

It’s the purple wire.
mid you want to kill the aft unit you just need to pull the purple wire in the control panel (under the salon couch). That will keep power to the pump relay that kap2 mention above. I find it odd that they would have a power source for this pump depend on power to one of the two units that it serves. But so be it. I’d run a separate breaker for the pump if it wasn’t such a pain in the ass to rewire.
I think I’m going to replace the aft unit with another webesto unit. Just way too much less than a new dometic.

 

[TheWolfTC]

well my forward air was replaced with a webesto unit. But seems I read somewhere that the aft unit has to have power for the pump to run. Does that sound right?
I’m having issues with my aft unit and plan to replace it soon too. But for now I’d just like to figure out how to get the pump to run when no power to the aft unit. So I can just cut it off at the breaker.

Couldn't you just leave the power "on" for the rear AC without heat/air/fan engaged? This will supply the power and when the forward unit calls for heat/air you are all set. You could even dim the lights on the control panel so they are barely visible as well.

Here is the link to the relay switch I used on my boat last summer. For some reason we blew a resistor on the original unit..it was strange. https://www.microair.net/products/r...-triggers-tr115-and-tr230?variant=29193369611

Have a GREAT day!!

 

[TN370]

Couldn't you just leave the power "on" for the rear AC without heat/air/fan engaged? This will supply the power and when the forward unit calls for heat/air you are all set. You could even dim the lights on the control panel so they are barely visible as well.

Here is the link to the relay switch I used on my boat last summer. For some reason we blew a resistor on the original unit..it was strange. https://www.microair.net/products/r...-triggers-tr115-and-tr230?variant=29193369611

Have a GREAT day!!

That was the plan. Then realized the keypad couldn’t tell the compressor to stop running. So it would just freeze up on me. So I’ve killed the unit and kept the power on to get the same result as what you suggested. I’ve got a bad SMX keypad and something bad on the control board. And I had a pretty bad rattle when the compressor would start up. Meaning it didn’t have much longer either. Time to send the old one out to sea

 

[TheWolfTC]

That was the plan. Then realized the keypad couldn’t tell the compressor to stop running. So it would just freeze up on me. So I’ve killed the unit and kept the power on to get the same result as what you suggested. I’ve got a bad SMX keypad and something bad on the control board. And I had a pretty bad rattle when the compressor would start up. Meaning it didn’t have much longer either. Time to send the old one out to sea

Here is a great company I have used to repair the SMX keypad. https://www.flightsystems.com/rv-generator-controls-repairs/cruisair-smx-smxii-repair-service.html

I have had a marine AC guy come to my boat a couple times over the years with various boats. I have also had my home AC guy on the boat. Both of them have stated that the compressor's on these units are, well, cheap...and that the "hammering" I hear is normal for this type of compressor. Hammering is the term they use for knocking/rattling upon start up or shut down.

That being said, I can't hear yours and you may well have had it inspected and know it's bad, but just thought I would share some thoughts/experiences.
Have a GREAT day!
Bill

 

[TN370]

Here is a great company I have used to repair the SMX keypad. https://www.flightsystems.com/rv-generator-controls-repairs/cruisair-smx-smxii-repair-service.html

I have had a marine AC guy come to my boat a couple times over the years with various boats. I have also had my home AC guy on the boat. Both of them have stated that the compressor's on these units are, well, cheap...and that the "hammering" I hear is normal for this type of compressor. Hammering is the term they use for knocking/rattling upon start up or shut down.

That being said, I can't hear yours and you may well have had it inspected and know it's bad, but just thought I would share some thoughts/experiences.
Have a GREAT day!
Bill

Yeah I could have lived with the “hammering”. But I did have it looked over. Said I need a new keypad and control board. And with it at 26 years old didn’t make a lot of sense to keep fixing things. Found a webasto unit with 6k btu for 1300 bucks. Think I’m going to just go with that. Already got the old one disconnected. Just need to pry it out of the hole.
Thanks for the feedback!