The Official 450 Express Bridge Owners Club

[Forrestkk]

Hi All,

Diving into annual maintenance after closing up parade season.

I know one of us has pulled the starboard aftercooler on the 6CTA, but I can't remember who after some searching. Hoping to get tips and tricks before I attempt it.

TIA!

Kevin

 

[Shoyrtt]

Anyone ever find a drop in replacement refrigerator for the bridge? I'd like to replace the broken uline ice maker with a fridge.. no idea what model the uline is as the stickers have long since faded..

My boat had an empty hole on the bridge and we went with a Uline ice maker. It dropped right in. The panels on either side should make it easy to adjust for the right size fridge also. For the ice maker to slide in, I did have to remove the door and the trim ring.

There is one item to consider when installing an ice maker or fridge on the bridge. On my early boat, built in 1998, the 110 outlet under the helm to plug the unit into only runs on the house side of the panel, meaning in stock form to get power to it you need to be on shore power or the generator. It does not tie into the 12v system. Before I did the big lithium battery upgrade, I installed an inverter between my ice maker and the trash compartment on the port side of the helm. I have had no problems with the inverter or the connection to the 12v system under the helm. When we take the boat out, I power it up and then turn on the ice maker and run it the entire trip. Hopefully this was corrected with the newer boats.

 

[Forrestkk]

Hi All,

Have a worsening vacuum leak on my master head. I have tightened everything in the ER, but want to snug down the connections at the head. Is there easier access other than boat yoga through the hallway bilge?

TIA!

P.S. if you can't tell I am starting on the big list from 9 fun months of boating and deferring a lot of little squaks.

 

[ocgrant]

Hi All,

Have a worsening vacuum leak on my master head. I have tightened everything in the ER, but want to snug down the connections at the head. Is there easier access other than boat yoga through the hallway bilge?

TIA!

P.S. if you can't tell I am starting on the big list from 9 fun months of boating and deferring a lot of little squaks.

Have you put a vacuum gauge on the inlet side of the vacuum generator? That will tell you if it is coming from before or after the generator. I though I had a leaky generator or hose, used this to test each component and found my issue to be the ball shaft and seals. See post #3251 http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/48-da-owners-club.84284/page-163

The tool is one of those "must own" to me.
https://www.environmentalmarine.com/dometic-vacuum-tester-gauge-530002/

 

[LMBoat]

Kevin,

RE your question on removing the strb aftercooler, I've done it a few times. It is a pain, but there are a few tricks to make it easier. On mine, I have to remove the exhaust elbow and a few sections of the exhaust (I had the exhaust re-designed, so they were dry, ie, water injected on the downhill side). They are bigger/higher, so I have to remove it to get access to the AC. You may not have to do this on yours. FYI, removing the exhaust does give you the opportunity to ck the turbo and exhaust for any issues.

Remove one of the top bolts and take it to an auto parts store and buy a few studs & bolts that are the same size (buy a few as you might drop/loose one in the process and have to make a second trip to the store (ask me how I know). Go back to the boat, screw in the stud where the bolt was and loosely secure with a bolt. Now, remove all the attached hoses, then the bolts securing the AC to the engine. This way the aftercooler will "hang there" while you unbolt all the bolts. You don't have to hang on to it while removing it. Once all the bolts are removed, you can remove the bolt on the stud and lift/wrestle it off the engine.

If you don't know, these things are heavy. I'd guess 40 lbs. Not bad normally, but the awkward access/reach makes it very heavy. Remove from the boat and follow Tony's on bench servicing (I first misspelled this to "beach", which sounds like a lot more fun).

On the re-install, use the same stud, lower/place the AC on the bracket, slide in the stud (no comments) then loosely bolt. This way you can lower/place the aftercooler on the engine and hold it there with the stud & nut. This makes reinstalling the bolts MUCH easier. Trying to hold that thing in place AND put in the bolts is a Challange.

Once the AC is hanging there, you might install one bolt loosely then re-attached the hoses. I've found that a little movement of the AC help a lot when reinstalling the hoses. I also use Permatex Aviation Sealant on all these hoses/barbs. Helps prevents leaks and makes removal next time much easier. If you don't have a hose removal tool, get one.

Once all the hose are on, install rest of the bolts, remove stud/bolt and reinstall that bolt. Put the studs/bolts in sandwich bag, label it, and put with your tools for next time.

Start the engine, ck for leaks, have a beer (or several)

It is not a complicated job, but can be frustrating. Take your time and think things through. You will need access to the outboard side going around the fanbelt end of the engine. I'm a big guy and can reach all the hose clamps I need too (barely). If you are not a "density challenged" as Moi, it will be easier.

You are asking about the Strb side, so I'm assuming you've done the port? If not, do that one first. Much easier to do and learn on.

Good luck!

Larry

 

[Forrestkk]

Have you put a vacuum gauge on the inlet side of the vacuum generator? That will tell you if it is coming from before or after the generator. I though I had a leaky generator or hose, used this to test each component and found my issue to be the ball shaft and seals. See post #3251 http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/48-da-owners-club.84284/page-163

The tool is one of those "must own" to me.
https://www.environmentalmarine.com/dometic-vacuum-tester-gauge-530002/


View attachment 137943

@ocgrant Thx! Will check this out!

 

[Forrestkk]

Kevin,

RE your question on removing the strb aftercooler, I've done it a few times. It is a pain, but there are a few tricks to make it easier. On mine, I have to remove the exhaust elbow and a few sections of the exhaust (I had the exhaust re-designed, so they were dry, ie, water injected on the downhill side). They are bigger/higher, so I have to remove it to get access to the AC. You may not have to do this on yours. FYI, removing the exhaust does give you the opportunity to ck the turbo and exhaust for any issues.

Remove one of the top bolts and take it to an auto parts store and buy a few studs & bolts that are the same size (buy a few as you might drop/loose one in the process and have to make a second trip to the store (ask me how I know). Go back to the boat, screw in the stud where the bolt was and loosely secure with a bolt. Now, remove all the attached hoses, then the bolts securing the AC to the engine. This way the aftercooler will "hang there" while you unbolt all the bolts. You don't have to hang on to it while removing it. Once all the bolts are removed, you can remove the bolt on the stud and lift/wrestle it off the engine.

If you don't know, these things are heavy. I'd guess 40 lbs. Not bad normally, but the awkward access/reach makes it very heavy. Remove from the boat and follow Tony's on bench servicing (I first misspelled this to "beach", which sounds like a lot more fun).

On the re-install, use the same stud, lower/place the AC on the bracket, slide in the stud (no comments) then loosely bolt. This way you can lower/place the aftercooler on the engine and hold it there with the stud & nut. This makes reinstalling the bolts MUCH easier. Trying to hold that thing in place AND put in the bolts is a Challange.

Once the AC is hanging there, you might install one bolt loosely then re-attached the hoses. I've found that a little movement of the AC help a lot when reinstalling the hoses. I also use Permatex Aviation Sealant on all these hoses/barbs. Helps prevents leaks and makes removal next time much easier. If you don't have a hose removal tool, get one.

Once all the hose are on, install rest of the bolts, remove stud/bolt and reinstall that bolt. Put the studs/bolts in sandwich bag, label it, and put with your tools for next time.

Start the engine, ck for leaks, have a beer (or several)

It is not a complicated job, but can be frustrating. Take your time and think things through. You will need access to the outboard side going around the fanbelt end of the engine. I'm a big guy and can reach all the hose clamps I need too (barely). If you are not a "density challenged" as Moi, it will be easier.

You are asking about the Strb side, so I'm assuming you've done the port? If not, do that one first. Much easier to do and learn on.

Good luck!

Larry

Larry,

GREAT write up, thank you! I am definitely doing port first since it is right there, but will still use the stud method.

You just confirmed my suspicion on having to remove my exhaust elbow, just no other way. As I am doing some steering cylinder work also, going to pull the generator battery and the cable tub which helps getting into that outboard space on starboard side. I am 5' 8" and 165 and it is a tight squeeze.

Any thoughts (from anyone) that I should also do while this stuff is torn apart. Would hate to be in early March going, "If I had only done **** while I had it apart!"

I am already rebuilding both raw water pumps so that starboard pump is on the list.

 

[LMBoat]

Kevin,

YES! Removing the genset batt and the cable tub is a big help (and a necessity for me, 6'1, 240#), and good planning on your part.

If you are going to remove the exhaust, you will need the metal gasket that goes between it and the turbo to reassemble (it is not reusable). SBMar has them. Not too much money. I usually get 4 at a time to have some for spares when needed. If the exhaust has not been off the turbo semi-recently, those nuts can be a bear. Mine had never been off the first time I took them off. Boat was about 12-13 years old then. I did bend a wrench, but got all the nuts off with out sheering a stud or rounding over a nut. If these studs/nuts are old, I would also suggest getting new ones from SBMar.

As to what else to do while you are doing the AC's, I have a few thoughts. If you have not changed any of those hose (seawater and air in/out of the AC) this might be the time to do it while you have all apart. Especially, the hoses going into and out of the fuel cooler. When they get old, that can balloon up and burst. My coolant filter on the strb engine is out board. While you are there, might as well change that if it is close to do a change.

Good plan on the SW pump. If you put a rag in that hole once you remove the pump (to keep things out of the engine, be sure and remove it before you reinstall the pumb. Again, don't ask me how i know.....

As noted elseware in this tread, i just did the steering cylinder. Not too bad as boat projects go.

Good luck with all and keep us posted on your projects.

FYI, I say "bolts" in my above post, but I mean "nuts". My bad

 

[techmitch]

Thought you guy's would appreciate this. It was an article in a Boattest.com email.

Hi BoatTEST Member –

As we rapidly head towards the end of the year, we look over our server logs to discover the most popular boat tests and reports we published in 2022. If you missed them, now you can catch up. Every day during our holiday wrap-up, we’ll show you what our BoatTEST Members judged – by their newsletter click activity – to be the best of the best.

Happy Holidays!

– The BoatTEST Team

 

[Forrestkk]

Have you put a vacuum gauge on the inlet side of the vacuum generator? That will tell you if it is coming from before or after the generator. I though I had a leaky generator or hose, used this to test each component and found my issue to be the ball shaft and seals. See post #3251 http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/48-da-owners-club.84284/page-163

The tool is one of those "must own" to me.
https://www.environmentalmarine.com/dometic-vacuum-tester-gauge-530002/


View attachment 137943

@ocgrant getting the vacuum Guage along with a toilet overhaul kit.

Question, I am getting a slight wiff of s*** when in the ER as the master head vacuum pump runs. Think I lost my bellows, or am starting to lose my bellows, again? I just replaced the brllows and the duckbills 15 months ago.

 

[ocgrant]

Thats strange if it were the bellows... 15 months is a short life unless maybe a live aboard. I see bellows that go several years with no issues. Mine were 14 and still fine when I rebuilt my system. Are you sure the vent line on the tank is all clear and free? How old are the hoses?

 

[Forrestkk]

Thats strange if it were the bellows... 15 months is a short life unless maybe a live aboard. I see bellows that go several years with no issues. Mine were 14 and still fine when I rebuilt my system. Are you sure the vent line on the tank is all clear and free? How old are the hoses?

Yes, vent lines are good. Confirmed both were clear when I changed the carbon filters last year. Possible they got blocked between now and then.

Agree, 15 months is short unless I haven't been paying attention and the thing runs when we are out 3 times an hour. Saturday and Sunday we have the heads on 8 to 12 hours a day.

 

[ocgrant]

I took out the carbon filters. They do nothing but get wet, blocked and useless. I am straight pipes now. Using no flex and I have no smell when you flush.

 

[roosevelt14]

All right guys, I am having my bridge reupholstered does any body know the color of the original Sea Ray logo that is stitched on the vinyl?

 

[Forrestkk]

All right guys, I am having my bridge reupholstered does any body know the color of the original Sea Ray logo that is stitched on the vinyl?

So, I did mine in the cockpit and was able to take some thread home from the embroidery shop to compare, but I don't remember the color (I can call next week). My shop did an amazing job at digitizing the logo and font and came up with a near flawless copy without having to compromise to a "known" font. Have heard folks have trouble getting the Sea Ray font to match. We put a ruler next to the original logo to give the digitize to give the digitizing company the scale and they recreated from there.

 

[roosevelt14]

So, I did mine in the cockpit and was able to take some thread home from the embroidery shop to compare, but I don't remember the color (I can call next week). My shop did an amazing job at digitizing the logo and font and came up with a near flawless copy without having to compromise to a "known" font. Have heard folks have trouble getting the Sea Ray font to match. We put a ruler next to the original logo to give the digitize to give the digitizing company the scale and they recreated from there.

View attachment 138119

Mine is so faded I just want to get it right!
Your right they did a amazing job!

 

[Jack O'Brien]

@ocgrant getting the vacuum Guage along with a toilet overhaul kit.

Question, I am getting a slight wiff of s*** when in the ER as the master head vacuum pump runs. Think I lost my bellows, or am starting to lose my bellows, again? I just replaced the brllows and the duckbills 15 months ago.

Occasionally my head bowl won't hold water due to a seal leak at the ball valve. In open position, I wipe it down, around and underneath, back to normal. Anything more complicated than that, like vacuum sensor or duck bills, I have my yacht mgr do. That effort was over a year ago.

 

[Jack O'Brien]

Anyone replace their bridge sink faucet, or repair it leaking, steady drip into the sink, valve fully closed. Perhaps just an o-ring in the valve? Also discovered that the bridge sink drain discharges out a small scupper, stbd side, almost mid-ship, at the boot stripe/just above water line.

 

[Forrestkk]

Anyone replace their bridge sink faucet, or repair it leaking, steady drip into the sink, valve fully closed. Perhaps just an o-ring in the valve? Also discovered that the bridge sink drain discharges out a small scupper, stbd side, almost mid-ship, at the boot stripe/just above water line.

I did. Check out this thread - http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...ridge-owners-club.102401/page-35#post-1297772

 

[LMBoat]

FYI, the bridge sink through hull discharge is shared with the washer/dryer.