The official "Stray Current II" thread. '07 260DA

Stray Current said:
... but I don’t like pushing the 6.2 that hard.
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Same here. It makes my butt cheeks clamp tight when I hear that thing scream at 5K. It sounds great, but knowing that a thrown rod means $30K gone bye-bye in the blink of an eye is a bit stressful.

I put the Rinda on it last year, and more than 70% of my run time (about 830 hrs) has been at <2K RPM. Lots of time in the no wake going up and down the rivers.
 
skibum said:
Same here. It makes my butt cheeks clamp tight when I hear that thing scream at 5K. It sounds great, but knowing that a thrown rod means $30K gone bye-bye in the blink of an eye is a bit stressful.

I put the Rinda on it last year, and more than 70% of my run time (about 830 hrs) has been at <2K RPM. Lots of time in the no wake going up and down the rivers.
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Yeah, I get about a 1-1.5 minute blast of WOT on every trip just to clean it up, but I try to run 3800-4K depending on conditions. 4300-4400 rpm seems the happy spot for the hull at 32 where it really flattens out and doesn’t need as much trim input, but I don’t like that for running 1+ hours straight when traveling to different destinations.

And I know damn well if I do repower it, I might as well replace the air conditioning unit while it’s out just to get the jump on the next chain of clusterf*ck ;)
 
I agree with the hull liking the 30's. It does run nice there. Personally, I like 26-28 MPH. I boat in the upper bay, so nothing is too far away. If I go any faster, I just get less time driving the boat.

On the trim, I don't have to use mine as much as I did before I fixed the hull to deck joint. I used 5200 and added some extra screws where SR was sparse with them. My hull is solid now. There was a substantial improvement in handling, as well as stability after the repair. I believe the hull was flexing slightly requiring constant use of the tabs to correct. I always had my fingers on the tab controls prior to that. Now, I get up on plane, set the tabs to compensate for the load on the boat, and leave them there until something moves on deck.
 
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Slow progress on little satan, but moving forward. Should have the genset ready to reinstall in the next 7-10 days after a driveway test run.

The boat is going Wednesday to have the drive and engine pulled again. Going to have the drive assessed, rear main replaced, and likely the pan as well. If the drive is 4k plus I’m hanging a new oem SeaCore 2.2:1 and sending it. I’m going to hold off on the engine replacement as it’s healthy now per the testing.

Once the engine is out I’m bringing it back home since the shop has no storage space. Going to scrub the bilge, paint the genset platform, and reseal the bilge vents.

I’ll also be feathering and sanding bottom paint for a recoat and probably have the detailing guy come hit it with another coat of sealer.
 
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They were a little bit shorthanded at the marina today so they weren’t quite ready for me to pick up the boat when I arrived. I wound up running the forklift.

Just one of the many bonuses of being an internationally forklift certified badass :cool:

The oil that came out of the drive was absolutely loaded with metal fragments. Like the worst they’ve ever seen from a drive that still operates o_O

at least I didn’t screw up my Bellows installation which I was kind of hoping it was
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That looks depressingly familiar. :(

Just curious... That aluminum L shaped thing screwed down in front of the float switch... Do know what it's there for or what it is called? I've only called it foul names. I've cut my foot on it 3 times and kicked it more times than I can count over the years. As soon as I cut the wrap off of her, I'm going to give my bilge a good cleaning and fix anything I can't easily get to with the engine in place. I'm thinking about removing that little torture device. With my luck, it's the one thing holding the entire boat together and she'll disintegrate as soon as I remove it.
 
skibum said:
That looks depressingly familiar. :(

Just curious... That aluminum L shaped thing screwed down in front of the float switch... Do know what it's there for or what it is called? I've only called it foul names. I've cut my foot on it 3 times and kicked it more times than I can count over the years. As soon as I cut the wrap off of her, I'm going to give my bilge a good cleaning and fix anything I can't easily get to with the engine in place. I'm thinking about removing that little torture device. With my luck, it's the one thing holding the entire boat together and she'll disintegrate as soon as I remove it.
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I have a love-hate relationship with that component. I believe it is there to take your weight instead of stepping on the float switch or the transducer as I find it convenient for that. I also spend a lot of time in the bilge barefoot or just my socks because it makes me hyper aware of where my feet are. The edge of that thing has bitten me a time or two.
 
skibum said:
That looks depressingly familiar. :(

Just curious... That aluminum L shaped thing screwed down in front of the float switch... Do know what it's there for or what it is called? I've only called it foul names. I've cut my foot on it 3 times and kicked it more times than I can count over the years. As soon as I cut the wrap off of her, I'm going to give my bilge a good cleaning and fix anything I can't easily get to with the engine in place. I'm thinking about removing that little torture device. With my luck, it's the one thing holding the entire boat together and she'll disintegrate as soon as I remove it.
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Stray Current said:
I have a love-hate relationship with that component. I believe it is there to take your weight instead of stepping on the float switch or the transducer as I find it convenient for that. I also spend a lot of time in the bilge barefoot or just my socks because it makes me hyper aware of where my feet are. The edge of that thing has bitten me a time or two.
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Take a 4x4 of your desired length, put a slice in it with a circular saw on one side, paint it with bilge paint, put a strip of step grip on the opposite side of the slice and set it right on top of it.
 
That's a great idea. A piece of rubber hose slit along it's length and wrapped around the edge might work, too.

I still think I'm just going to remove it and put the screws back in the holes with some sealer. I'll toss it in my spares kit. I've owned this boat for 16 years and I have never once kicked or stepped on the float switch, yet somehow my foot always ends up sliding down that angled section and hitting it.
 
skibum said:
That's a great idea. A piece of rubber hose slit along it's length and wrapped around the edge might work, too.

I still think I'm just going to remove it and put the screws back in the holes with some sealer. I'll toss it in my spares kit. I've owned this boat for 16 years and I have never once kicked or stepped on the float switch, yet somehow my foot always ends up sliding down that angled section and hitting it.
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Quoted for when you step on the float 5 minutes after removing :D

I’ve never stepped on it either but I did manage to step on the blue plug for my pneumatically operated drain and break that $500 piece of plastic…
 
Stray Current said:
Quoted for when you step on the float 5 minutes after removing :D

I’ve never stepped on it either but I did manage to step on the blue plug for my pneumatically operated drain and break that $500 piece of plastic…
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I know you're going to be right on that one.

Don't get me started on that one. I've broken those stupid little fittings that the air lines plug into at least twice each. They're like $25-$30 a piece so I've stopped replacing them. I remove the plugs to winterize and have never had a problem. I put my 2nd brand new Hardin pump on there last year, so I'm praying that I can go at least 3 years without removing a sea pump. I'm an expert in that. I do not want to be one. It's also the reason I've gotten into fights with that bracket.
 
skibum said:
I know you're going to be right on that one.

Don't get me started on that one. I've broken those stupid little fittings that the air lines plug into at least twice each. They're like $25-$30 a piece so I've stopped replacing them. I remove the plugs to winterize and have never had a problem. I put my 2nd brand new Hardin pump on there last year, so I'm praying that I can go at least 3 years without removing a sea pump. I'm an expert in that. I do not want to be one. It's also the reason I've gotten into fights with that bracket.
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Gotta ask, is that little fucker in your parts manual?
Maybe @Lazy Daze can chime in?
 
Stray Current said:
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They were a little bit shorthanded at the marina today so they weren’t quite ready for me to pick up the boat when I arrived. I wound up running the forklift.

Just one of the many bonuses of being an internationally forklift certified badass :cool:

The oil that came out of the drive was absolutely loaded with metal fragments. Like the worst they’ve ever seen from a drive that still operates o_O

at least I didn’t screw up my Bellows installation which I was kind of hoping it wasView attachment 159386
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Damn, I wish I had that much room in front of my engine.
 
I forgot that I have every parts list and schematic printed off in a binder. I gotta find that. Still packed from moving three times in 3 years
 
So my boat has been sitting on the trailer in my driveway for 6days and 3 different people have already called code enforcement on me…

You can’t make this shit up. You can’t do you own service and repair in town, but nobody with a yard works on mercruisers. Anybody who does work on Mercruisers doesn’t have a yard where the boat can be kept while it’s being worked on.

Meanwhile, people moved to a place that markets itself as “The boaters’ Paradise” and then get butthurt looking at a boat.

Maybe fix your roof, tarpy…

Fortunately, I’ve had a hit or two on the listing, but not ready for sea trials yet
 
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Paint came out ok for a hack job. New injector and TMAP sensor installed. Valve clearance was set to .005”. They had definitely gotten a little tight after 700 hours since the last adjustment

I should have it mostly assembled in the next day or two and hopefully in the bilge for a run test over the weekend.

Should be easy enough just to throw it in there and hook it up to test run it now that there’s no engine
 
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Lazy application of bilge coat after a quick sand and wipe with acetone

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Why do I have the feeling this is going to drag out into a 4+ week nightmare…

I wish I had space to work on this at my own leisure. I’m sure the shop is going to drag feet while code enforcement is down my neck the entire time.
 
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Depending on how much work I get done on the boat itself tomorrow evening I might get this all buttoned up.
 
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