The official "Stray Current II" thread. '07 260DA

IMG_4384.jpeg

Utility inlet panel reinstalled. I had to get creative with the brass since those conical washers never reseal once disturbed.

I’m a little miffed that they spent however much time they did disconnecting all that shit in attempt to remove the hatch when I told him all we had to do was swing it all the way open and lift the engine with a forklift
IMG_4385.jpeg

Totalbilge paint seems to work pretty well. I need to do a scrub to the left and right of the platform before the unit goes back in.

IMG_4387.jpeg
IMG_4388.jpeg
IMG_4389.jpeg


Glad I decided to pressure test the coolant system before I put it in the boat. Turns out that pipe dope or Teflon tape will not seal the threads at the filler neck. Not exactly sure what I’m gonna do here yet.
 
I wound up taking a trip to the north Fort Myers Walmart at around 11 o’clock last night to grab some RTV. Talk about bring your pistol because the hills have eyes…

Mrs. Current just sent me a picture of the cooling system pressure tester gauge that I pumped up at 6 AM. Still holding 16 pounds. I’m gonna go ahead and say that with my 13 pound cap I should be all good….
IMG_4396.png

So apparently the answer is pack the threads with red RTV
 
IMG_4401.jpeg
IMG_4402.jpeg
IMG_4403.jpeg
IMG_4404.jpeg
IMG_4405.jpeg
Of course the breaker bolt was seized on the original junction box and snapped off, rendering the breaker useless.

You’d think it would be a readily available breaker, but not good at west marine or the other local marine supply.

I made a spacer and blank out of a pair of Square D breaker blanks for a residential panel
 
IMG_4407.jpeg
IMG_4408.jpeg
IMG_4409.jpeg

Gotta run out and grab some grade 8s to reinstall the catalyst, but almost ready for a test run. if all goes well, it’s getting the slip rings cleaned and a new set of brushes and then it is ready to go back in the boat.

So far it has a new stainless skid, new motor mounts, new front shaft seal, new TMap and injector, seawater pressure switch, plugs, junction box and cover, circuit breaker, Exhaust manifold, heat exchanger, filler neck and rad cap, all hoses, starter solenoid, a whole bunch of hardware, and the valve lash was adjusted

I guess the real question is, will it still be called “Little Satan” or “The Neon Demon”?
 
JayhawkCurtis said:
That thing hurts my eyes to look at it. How about mighty migraine. :oops:
Click to expand...
Before I bought this boat, I used to race stand-up jetskis. Pretty much all vintage boats from the 80s and all kinds of bright ass 80s colors. Between getting hurt and buying this boat, I wound up selling the four Kawasakis that I had, and my one 2015 super jet. This Kohler is the only Kawasaki that I have left so the colors tie in!

IMG_4412.jpeg
Poor man’s load bank is a success! I would have loved to run it for another half hour or so to make sure I didn’t have any seal leaks, but I think the neighbors would all be out with pitchforks!
 
techmitch said:
I think an orange oil filter (not a Fram) and red coil's are in order.
Click to expand...
I was thinking about that but I won’t put a fram or the Generac cross reference on it. I like the Wix XP filters

Definitely not painting the plastic coils! (Although I did paint the valve cover phantom black due to overspray)
 
Stray Current said:
I was thinking about that but I won’t put a fram or the Generac cross reference on it. I like the Wix XP filters

Definitely not painting the plastic coils! (Although I did paint the valve cover phantom black due to overspray)
Click to expand...
Just busting... Check your "stainless" clamps with a magnet.
Again, just busting, but you are in the salt.
 
techmitch said:
Just busting... Check your "stainless" clamps with a magnet.
Again, just busting, but you are in the salt.
Click to expand...
I usually buy the more expensive ideal 304 stainless clamps, but these are probably 18-8 and slightly magnetic as they came from a Lowe’s contractor bulk pack. They are ideal/tridon though so could be decent stainless. I reused the clamps from the 1 inch lines because they were all in good shape.
IMG_4414.jpeg


Everything on the engine and anything on a raw water line is the closed worm style clamps from defender. Can’t recall the brand

I’m usually not one to cheap out on anything but I’m also starting to feel the squeeze lately.
 
techmitch said:
Really bustin now. Trust but verify.

I've been screwed before.
Click to expand...
I can’t say I’ve checked them with a magnet, but all the hoses that I redid in 2019 and 2020 with those clamps show zero corrosion and they have exceptional clamping force without deforming

I wish the pictures were still there in the thread, there was a big old pile of them with all the coils of hardwall hoses

Maybe @CSR_Admin can restore the pics?
 
IMG_4457.jpeg
IMG_4458.jpeg
IMG_4459.jpeg
IMG_4460.jpeg
IMG_4461.jpeg


I think it might be clean enough for the engine to go back in now
 
Yendor said:
Pretty sure we all agree with that premise.

You do realize though, that now you will need to post pictures of what
that engine looks like before we can condone you putting it back in. ;)
Click to expand...
I wound up having a shop pull it and having them fix the leaks and a few other things while it’s apart. They’te going to replace the shift cable and bellows, trim hose, rear main, pan gasket, manifold gaskets, and dry joint gaskets and reinstall. Don’t have the time or space right this moment. Hopefully that will be changing soon.

I’m sure they won’t clean it up like i would, it just finding someone competent to touch sterndrives down here is difficult. I almost towed it to my guy in jersey

still no word on the drive itself
 
Unfortunately (as is evidenced by the current mechanic thread), you are not the only one having to work around that reality. I have had that same experience here. I wish I knew of an alternative, but it seems like around here you have two choices: pay 135% MerCruiser shop rates with no end date, after listening to everything that COULD (and guaranteed WILL) BE A COMPLICATION OR do it yourself. If I do figure out or find an alternative, I will certainly let you know.
 
IMG_4475.jpeg
IMG_4476.jpeg
nothing sketchy going on, just trying to get a little deflection on the I-beams to put the target bunks back in after bottom painting o_O

Definitely not as easy to do without 1400 pounds of iron in the bilge…
 
IMG_4480.jpeg

Bottom painted, trailer reassembled and nothing horrible happened doing sketchy things flexing trailer beams.Now off to the shop tomorrow to have the engine reinstalled.

Oh wait, they missed the order cutoff and didn’t get the rear main ordered by the only day I could take off this week… :mad:

Florida… never be in a position to have to hire ANYTHING out in Florida.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,186
Messages
1,428,171
Members
61,097
Latest member
Mdeluca407
Back
Top