Ubiquity Bullet M2 vs PepLink Max BR1 Mini. Wan WiFi

During the Zoom training I mentioned earlier, I asked the trainer whether it was OK to install both AC and DC power to a Peplink Transit. The trainer said no but didn't provide a reference. I just reviewed this thread and see some have at least tried providing dual sources of power. I did some internet research and cannot find any warnings about this either. Has anyone noticed or heard of a concern about using both sources at once? I typically always have AC available but I would like to have DC connected if I ever need it.
 
alnav said:
During the Zoom training I mentioned earlier, I asked the trainer whether it was OK to install both AC and DC power to a Peplink Transit. The trainer said no but didn't provide a reference. I just reviewed this thread and see some have at least tried providing dual sources of power. I did some internet research and cannot find any warnings about this either. Has anyone noticed or heard of a concern about using both sources at once? I typically always have AC available but I would like to have DC connected if I ever need it.
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I don't imagine it should matter. Ultimately, electronic devices use DC power. I'm not sure which router you have, but you are likely still providing DC power even when plugged into AC. The power pack you probably have converts the AC to DC and also provides the appropriate voltage.

Even with electronics that accept AC power directly, the very first thing that happens to that AC power is a conversion to DC, then adapted to the required voltage(s).

The Peplink likely takes a DC input and regulates it, then provides it to the same power circuit as the AC power adapter barrel connector. Hooking something up twice to DC power doesn't matter.

Now, could the Peplink back-drive the DC power input via the AC adapter? Probably not, but maybe worth checking.
 
bajturner said:
I don't imagine it should matter. Ultimately, electronic devices use DC power. I'm not sure which router you have, but you are likely still providing DC power even when plugged into AC. The power pack you probably have converts the AC to DC and also provides the appropriate voltage.

Even with electronics that accept AC power directly, the very first thing that happens to that AC power is a conversion to DC, then adapted to the required voltage(s).

The Peplink likely takes a DC input and regulates it, then provides it to the same power circuit as the AC power adapter barrel connector. Hooking something up twice to DC power doesn't matter.

Now, could the Peplink back-drive the DC power input via the AC adapter? Probably not, but maybe worth checking.
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Thinking more about this (and I know only enough about electronics to be dangerous!), connecting both could create some strange ground loop issues that could create noise and affect performance.

I am sure others with more expertise and knowledge will chime-in on this and my previous post.
 
The Peplink can be powered by one of three ways. By DC, green connector, by POE and by AC wall wart which is actually 12v. Usually the POE and DC inputs are one in the same. The wall wart usually has more buffering/filtering then the other two. Now I haven't actually seen a schematic for this device, but that is a good rule of thumb on the more expensive devices. The DC port should be ignition protected in a perfect world but doubt that it is. If all of the inputs are tied together, if you plug in the wall wart, dc voltage should appear on the DC (green) connector, unless it is ignition protected because of the diode protecting the input or they are not connected together at that level. Hard to guess with this stuff and without a schematic and some testing thats all that it is.

I have mine powered by POE for now, only because it was available quickly, old power for the Ubiquity. I am planing on using the wall wart plug hoping there is better filtering with that plug. And I would not power any of the three inputs with different sources. Not a good idea with anything like this.
 
Mine is powered off the green connector, also cut the wall wart on the cisco hub and powered it the same way. No issues and works great withou the need for AC power underway
 
ocgrant said:
Mine is powered off the green connector, also cut the wall wart on the cisco hub and powered it the same way. No issues and works great withou the need for AC power underway
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My current setup is all powered off 12V. Plan is to do the same when I install the Peplink.
 
b_arrington said:
Just FYI, T-Mobile has discontinued their prepaid $50 / 100gb plan. Unless you already had the 100gb plan, their biggest is now $50 / 50gb.
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Seems like they are really trying hard to stop the modems and routers like the ones we are using.
 
I have my Mk2 powered via a fused/switched circuit directly off the St battery with a 12V-12V DC regulator installed. Its probably overkill as the input is good from 10-30 VDC.
 
Note that FW 8.1.2 is now available (GA) on the website. It is build 5114.

Since upgrading to the beta 8.1.2 a while back the SSID issues went away. I just did the GA upgrade and will monitor for the next week or so.
 
bajturner said:
Note that FW 8.1.2 is now available (GA) on the website. It is build 5114.

Since upgrading to the beta 8.1.2 a while back the SSID issues went away. I just did the GA upgrade and will monitor for the next week or so.
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So I have updated to the new firmware and I am still seeing lockups.

I am curious if anyone else is having any type of issue with this or if I am unique in this. Wondering if I need to change my antenna to the puma or not? Don't see what that would do, but it is a cheap amazon cell antenna that was purchased for testing.
 
SKybolt said:
So I have updated to the new firmware and I am still seeing lockups.

I am curious if anyone else is having any type of issue with this or if I am unique in this. Wondering if I need to change my antenna to the puma or not? Don't see what that would do, but it is a cheap amazon cell antenna that was purchased for testing.
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Do you have everything on the network set up as DHCP? I had intermittent lockups with a mix of fixed and dynamic protocols.
 
ttmott said:
Do you have everything on the network set up as DHCP? I had intermittent lockups with a mix of fixed and dynamic protocols.
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I wish it were that simple, the cell connection and wifi both have to be DHCP in order to work. But the inside network is static. I guess that's something to consider. There could be a TTL issue with the inside router, didn't think of that. Thanks!
 
I'm not having any issues...up and running 24/7 since installed. Speeds are a little slow, but consistent.
 
SKybolt said:
So I have updated to the new firmware and I am still seeing lockups.

I am curious if anyone else is having any type of issue with this or if I am unique in this. Wondering if I need to change my antenna to the puma or not? Don't see what that would do, but it is a cheap amazon cell antenna that was purchased for testing.
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I was having some instability with the AP side (SSIDs disappearing, WiFi dropping, etc.) and after trying everything I could think of I did a factory reset. After the reset I renamed the default SSID and left everything pretty much as is. Instability went away. I now have WiFi WAN and cellular in priority 1 with SpeedFusion running with a bunch of outbound policy rules (the retailer I purchased it from helped me). Everything has been smooth. WiFi automatically reconnects when I get back to the dock and the tunnel never goes down. Adding a second cellular plan this week.
 
bajturner said:
I was having some instability with the AP side (SSIDs disappearing, WiFi dropping, etc.) and after trying everything I could think of I did a factory reset. After the reset I renamed the default SSID and left everything pretty much as is. Instability went away. I now have WiFi WAN and cellular in priority 1 with SpeedFusion running with a bunch of outbound policy rules (the retailer I purchased it from helped me). Everything has been smooth. WiFi automatically reconnects when I get back to the dock and the tunnel never goes down. Adding a second cellular plan this week.
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It was buried in a post I made earlier, but the recommendation I got was to create a new SSID and delete the default. According to the briefer the default SSID can cause network instability if it's renamed.
 
alnav said:
It was buried in a post I made earlier, but the recommendation I got was to create a new SSID and delete the default. According to the briefer the default SSID can cause network instability if it's renamed.
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Well that could certainly be my issue as I did that on day one during the setup process. But my device was stable for months until the firmware update prior to the latest version, 8.1.2, I was on 7.x.x or something like that.
 
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