Windlass slipping

C

Captain Quest

New Member
Jul 25, 2011
55
Ontario
Boat Info
1989 Sea Ray
Engines
Twin
When I operate the windlass it will initially start feeding the anchor downwards but it stops. The motor stays running but it stops feeding. Now it takes two people....one to operate the switch & the other at the bow to assist by pulling the rope out. It will come all the way up by itself but needs slight assistance right at the top.

I have never had one apart but am willing to attempt it as I was originally an auto mechanic & do repair many things myself on the boat. Its just that I am in unknown territory here & wondered if anyone has fixed one or can tell me what to expect if I start disassembly.

Should I remove the whole unit from the boat first or am I able to split the case while it is still mounted ? are they complex inside or reasonably simple & do they have clutches?

It is on a 1989 340 EC

Thanks anyone
 
You'll find the parts can be hard to find depending on the model you have. The clutch looking device that pulls the rode in is the gypsy, it may or may not be bad and need replacing. This is the most typicall part that needs replacing. Good luck!
 
OK,

Looking at the year and type of boat you have a GOOD windlass... Good is the brand name. When letting out anchor and rode your windlass will go into free fall mode. The issue is every one I have ever had dealings with will not just free fall. You have to have someone manually pull the line out then set it. It will restart and bring the anchor in but not free fall. If someone knows of something I'm missing I hope they speak up because I have tried on 4 or 5 of them with the same results... it may be worth your time to replace so you can add a length of chain to your anchor which is impossible with the good....
 
Jason, How true! These do not "free" fall and so far on mine ( that you helped me out with) I have to run the motor to get the line out until it hits bottom and then it will pull out as we back up. I did find out that the GooD units will burn up the resetable fuse located next to the motor under the wench and after replacing it I have a good ( no pun) working anchor wench.
 
Hi,
I had a problem with my windless slipping and bought a new spring on line because I thought that the spring was waring out and that was causing the slippage.

Unfortunately the spring I got was 14mm in diameter and would not fit in the existing pawl. The existing spring in the pawl was 12mm. I then tried to buy a pawl that would take a 14mm spring and found that Lofrans no longer makes them.

I teach computer modeling at university and so made my self a new pawl for a 14mm spring in Autocad and had it printed in nylon. It worked fine. The nylon was not as strong as the original aluminum so I glued an aluminum ware surface with epoxy and it works fine. I could also have printed it in Aluminum but that would have been more expensive.

If you want to try it it is available at:

http://www.shapeways.com/shops/SALMONRIVERDESIGN?section=Marine+Parts&s=0
 
Pyrojodge said:
OK,

Looking at the year and type of boat you have a GOOD windlass... Good is the brand name. When letting out anchor and rode your windlass will go into free fall mode. The issue is every one I have ever had dealings with will not just free fall. You have to have someone manually pull the line out then set it. It will restart and bring the anchor in but not free fall. If someone knows of something I'm missing I hope they speak up because I have tried on 4 or 5 of them with the same results... it may be worth your time to replace so you can add a length of chain to your anchor which is impossible with the good....
Click to expand...

Hi Jason, I have a 1989 390 with the Good windless I have read everything I can get my hands on but did not see that the Good windless can not take a chain? Is that right? Thanks Jim
 
If you have the 80s style good windlass you can not feed chain through it.
 
I know I don't know what I am talking about, but last weekend I had a problem when retrieving my anchor. The line at some point would stop winding yet the windlass was still operating as it attempted to pull the anchor from the water. I walked over to it and noticed that there is a piece of aluminum spring tensioner of some sort that appeared not to be applying tension to the line as the windlass attempted to retrieve anchor. I simply tighten the retaining bolt on this tensioner and problem solved. Again not sure of the nomenclature of the tensioner part, but I tightened the bolt and windlass operation appeared normal from that point on.
 
Hi colleagues,

I have an issue with my (new to me) Sundancer 290 windlass...... the mechanism got stuck in the up position!!!. The chain is very hard (tension) and now the switch can't even move it downwards. How do you release some tension on the chain?. Help please!!!
 
If the brand on the Windlass is "Good", then you may want to give them a call. I dealt with them about a year and a half ago when I treated myself to one of their rope/chain windlasses. They were great to deal with. One of the best things I ever got for the boat.
 
Some of the Good brand windlasses are not free fall but feed out with the motor,some will accept chain some wont.Mine wont accept chain and when the anchor is standing on the bottom it stops picking up and needs a hand,this just started happening our last trip out to end the season.Figures i sold one that accepts chain that i was going to install on my last boat but bought a new style lewmar instead.Its on the list for winter.
 
I just checked and it is a Lewmar; how do I release the tension on the chain ?
 
Is yoyr Lewmar a free fall?
If so; does it hang up when lowering? If it is hanging up when lowering, is it hanging up at the rope/chain splice?
We have a Lewmar on the 22' fishing boat that was doing this. The splice was the problem. Changed the rode, and problem was solved.
 
There should be a handle that you can manualy crank it with,or it may be hanging up inside the locker.
 
The windlass comes with two switches (UP and Down) so I assume it is not a free fall; I will borrow a handle that can move it downwards .... Will keep you guys posted!!
Thanks
 
Good makes several types of windlasses. Some free fall, some do not.

The thing about Good is that they have a simple design which makes them almost indestructible and very reliable, but there are some clearances that must be set to get them to work properly. I have had a good for almost 20 years and I have found that it better to send the entire windlass back to Good in NJ and have them rebuild it rather than to take it apart and hope I guess right at setting it up and having to find parts. The longest turnaround time I've experienced was about 10 days and the cost is variable depending upon what they need to do.

Line quality has a lot to do with how well a Good windlass works. If your line looks like it is fraywesd to the point t hat it is growing hair, or has stretched so it is smaller in diameter than its original size, then ask Good about a new rode. Their factory prices are very good and if your windlass is there for repairs, they will make you a deal on the new anchor line.
 
Frank, frankly speaking I don't think I have to replace my Lewmar windlass!!! I just need to release the tension and make it work buddy.

Thanks anyway
 
I have had a GOOD brand windlass for 10 years. I do have a length of chain only long enough so that when the anchor is all the way up the chain doesn't hit the windlass. If it's not free falling at the beginning it is likely there is a bunching up of line in the locker and or the line is getting to old and stiff (I have seen this a lot). As far as slipping when retrieving the anchor, Ive been dealing with this for a wile and need to send mine in or just order a gear pack from the manufacturer. The main thing is mine is not pulling it self back in when there is no tension on it. I often have my first mate watch it and put tension on it when its slack and it pulls fine. I have never found the time after hall out to mess with it in the winter.
 
JimmyDubai said:
The windlass comes with two switches (UP and Down) so I assume it is not a free fall; I will borrow a handle that can move it downwards .... Will keep you guys posted!!
Thanks
Click to expand...

Up and Down switches could be for either a free fall, or a power down.
If it's a freefall, you should only need to hold it in the down position for a two or three seconds. The motor will start by powering down, then you release the button as it freefalls from there.
You let it release the amount of scope you want on it's own, and then you press the up button for a second or two to reverse it a foot or so, and then it locks it and prevents it from letting out any more scope.
If it is a power down, then you have to hold the down position on the switch until the anchor is all the way down.
If you don't have the model number of your Lewmar Windlass, then try calling them and maybe they can tell you what it is based on your description, or post a picture of it here, and maybe someone will recognize it.
 
JimmyDubai said:
Frank, frankly speaking I don't think I have to replace my Lewmar windlass!!! I just need to release the tension and make it work buddy.

Thanks anyway
Click to expand...


Look at the very first word of my post........It says Good, not Lewmar. I was attempting to help the OP and others with Good issues, not owners of other brands. Furtther, if you bothered to read my post, you will see that I am advocating spending a $1-$250 on replacing all the wearable parts ina good which makes them like new. I didn't advocate replacing any windlass.

I do this to help other people, not to solicit smart-assed comments from people who don't even read a thread before posting comments.
 
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