1999 454 Mag MPI just quits - videos

So if your other identical diz fits with the gear off it must be the gear.
Does the cam manufacturer recommend a diff. gear?
 
Almost looks like a tall deck distributor.
Did it fit once before?
If you still have the old one compare the two. There is a significant difference in length between the collar and gear.
You should be able to crank the engine over and that distributor just drop right in.
I know of only two gears for BBC distributors cast iron and bronze. The tooth count and diameter of the gear must be the same as the cam. 1 for 1.
 
I think his distributor is landing on top of the pump rod and the pump rod is off center which is why he has a 1/2" gap. He had the distributor in there and seated before he rebuilt it so I don't think it is the gear other than the meshing is probably pushing it off center to the oil pump rod when he is trying to install it.

It just takes some patience to play with the rod pushing it to one side or another and wiggling the distributor. Once he can get the distributor gear over the bevel of the oil pump shaft....all should be good.

You can always give Tom's way a try but I have always been too nervous to use the starter to seat a distributor......something about meshing gears and massive torque.;)
 
I think his distributor is landing on top of the pump rod and the pump rod is off center which is why he has a 1/2" gap. He had the distributor in there and seated before he rebuilt it so I don't think it is the gear other than the meshing is probably pushing it off center to the oil pump rod when he is trying to install it.

It just takes some patience to play with the rod pushing it to one side or another and wiggling the distributor. Once he can get the distributor gear over the bevel of the oil pump shaft....all should be good.
That sounds rational. Make sure though the drive is actually fully engaged onto the pump. If that shaft is the type with the plastic retaining collar as most are and that collar has broken the shaft will not stay aligned at the pump and definitely will not allow the distributor to drop in correctly. Do not run the engine if the collar has broken and fallen off. You may need to get a new shaft with the steel collar.
s-l300.jpg
 
Distributor should have a bronze gear on it if that's a billet steel camshaft just turn the pump rod and try your best I know it's frustrating but it will drop in
 
:Crank right over and drop right in? need more info please
Bump the starter or breaker bar on the crank bolt the oil pump shaft aligns and distributor drops in. Old old method. Advance the tooth count to compensate for the helical gear twist and rotor aligns perfectly.
If that distributor doesn't drop right on to the gasket there are problems. It should never have to be forced into place.
 
I have seen it done…..but never got comfortable with it.

Plus…..you may be on to something about the pump shaft itself. If it pulled up when he took the distributor out….
that would also explain it being off center.
 
I will talk to Innovation after the 4th. We have offshore powerboat races this weekend. They are stacked up there. I doubt it’s plastic, but I didn’t install the pump. Leaning towards the shaft gettin thrown off when setting the diz. It has been in right since the assembly, just not this week. I’ll also reach out to ADT about gears on diz and cam. I’m not forcing anything. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
I have seen it done…..but never got comfortable with it.

Plus…..you may be on to something about the pump shaft itself. If it pulled up when he took the distributor out….
that would also explain it being off center.
As you raise and lower the distributor when the gears are engaged the rotor will twist left and right. Put a sharpie mark on the distributor housing where the #1 wire is on the cap and engage the rotor one tooth advanced and when it drops onto the oil pump shaft by turning over the engine it'll be on the mark ready for timing. Obviously you do this procedure with the balancer timing mark in spec and number 1 firing. You need to bring the crank around two times to verify but it'll be there.
 
I will talk to Innovation after the 4th. We have offshore powerboat races this weekend. They are stacked up there. I doubt it’s plastic, but I didn’t install the pump. Leaning towards the shaft gettin thrown off when setting the diz. It has been in right since the assembly, just not this week. I’ll also reach out to ADT about gears on diz and cam. I’m not forcing anything. Thanks for the suggestions.
One thing, unless you've got a crap load of money in that motor and it is a race build the cam isn't billet steel with steel distributor drive. Even if it is a OEM billet steel roller cam they press on iron gears. You do not need a bronze gear. The gears and tooth count on Big Block (and Small Block) Chevys are all the same. That is until they moved the oil pump drive to the crankshaft. The gear isn't your problem.
 
I have seen it done…..but never got comfortable with it.

Plus…..you may be on to something about the pump shaft itself. If it pulled up when he took the distributor out….
that would also explain it being off center.
don't think it's pulled up. Old diz fits fine, but no gear to mesh. It's not leaning per se, at least to the eye. Looks centered when adjusting the tang and trying to drop.
 
will try a little before and a little after TDC to see if maybe the balancer outer ring slipped a little. 250 hour engine, though.
 
As you raise and lower the distributor when the gears are engaged the rotor will twist left and right. Put a sharpie mark on the distributor housing where the #1 wire is on the cap and engage the rotor one tooth advanced and when it drops onto the oil pump shaft by turning over the engine it'll be on the mark ready for timing. Obviously you do this procedure with the balancer timing mark in spec and number 1 firing. You need to bring the crank around two times to verify but it'll be there.
Cap is off. I can see the rotor just fine. Where it should set, it's still up by the margin in the pic. Even tried rotating the oil pump shaft 180, but I wouldn't think that is polarized except the tang has to fit into the slot.
 
That sounds rational. Make sure though the drive is actually fully engaged onto the pump. If that shaft is the type with the plastic retaining collar as most are and that collar has broken the shaft will not stay aligned at the pump and definitely will not allow the distributor to drop in correctly. Do not run the engine if the collar has broken and fallen off. You may need to get a new shaft with the steel collar.
s-l300.jpg
Think I can see for sure with a borescope camera going down the hole? Otherwise it's pull the engine and drop the pan. Day One all over again. Innovation will know what they used.
 
Cap is off. I can see the rotor just fine. Where it should set, it's still up by the margin in the pic. Even tried rotating the oil pump shaft 180, but I wouldn't think that is polarized except the tang has to fit into the slot.
Crazy question, but gotta ask. Can you see through the pin in the dist. gear? My mind is still wrapped around your original performance issues and @Hoplite808 's problems. And yes, I have lost sleep over both. It's the way God made me.
 
So diz is reassembled exactly as it was correct. Only reason it would not drop in is the oil pump drive . Look at the slot in diz and look at shaft. Hard to do when no there. When we ran roller cams in street cars the diz gear had to be bronze. Weaker than the billet cam shaft
 
About 20 posts ago, I asked a question that by and large descended into a discussions about the metal composition of the gears. All I needed was to realize that the tang was engaging BEFORE I got the gear all the way in, so instead of having the slot pointing to #1, it needed to be 30ish degrees CCW. Dropped right in. 3 days for 5 seconds of STEM thinking.
I have first and second start videos. No tapping, no bad noises, sucking air in start 1 because the plenum wasn't bolted down, and no water in start 2 because I forgot to open the sea cock. I'll set the timing when it cools down, and then it's off to the races (at break in speeds). What should I give it? 10 hours?

https://share.icloud.com/photos/06bMgiTJCPqbWFpK1xiE7xtSQ
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b3KbdLDITvEd-LVsE6UvP9Pw


distro in correctly.jpeg
 

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