340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Knot It, thank you...

Having the spent a few hours these past 3 days crawling around the engines I have a newfound respect for anyone that works on the 340s with 8.1s.

At one point I was sliding down headfirst between the engines to get a roll of tape that I knocked down to the bottom of the bilge. I then realized that if my support hand slipped there was no way I was going to be able to slide myself back up - and my cell phone was up top :)

Looking forward to a summer on the water...
 
Between the walkway on to the foredeck and access to work on the engines, that was the push I needed to go with a 380. I love the 340 for many reasons. My wife said we are getting the 380 or we keep the 268…. She didn’t know I sold the 268 already… lol
Knot It, thank you...

Having the spent a few hours these past 3 days crawling around the engines I have a newfound respect for anyone that works on the 340s with 8.1s.

At one point I was sliding down headfirst between the engines to get a roll of tape that I knocked down to the bottom of the bilge. I then realized that if my support hand slipped there was no way I was going to be able to slide myself back up - and my cell phone was up top :)

Looking forward to a summer on the water...
 
Knot It, thank you...

Having the spent a few hours these past 3 days crawling around the engines I have a newfound respect for anyone that works on the 340s with 8.1s.

At one point I was sliding down headfirst between the engines to get a roll of tape that I knocked down to the bottom of the bilge. I then realized that if my support hand slipped there was no way I was going to be able to slide myself back up - and my cell phone was up top :)

Looking forward to a summer on the water...
Between the walkway on to the foredeck and access to work on the engines, that was the push I needed to go with a 380. I love the 340 for many reasons. My wife said we are getting the 380 or we keep the 268…. She didn’t know I sold the 268 already… lol

The 340/380 thing came on the table after these post.
Here's 1 of the first 20 or so that came up. Talk about "road hard and...
https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1999-sea-ray-380-sundancer-8607267/
 
Knot It, thank you...

Having the spent a few hours these past 3 days crawling around the engines I have a newfound respect for anyone that works on the 340s with 8.1s.

At one point I was sliding down headfirst between the engines to get a roll of tape that I knocked down to the bottom of the bilge. I then realized that if my support hand slipped there was no way I was going to be able to slide myself back up - and my cell phone was up top :)

Looking forward to a summer on the water...

You would be surprised how much room is down there when the exhausts and manifolds are off ;). With them off I can walk between the engines and can appreciate an extra foot of beam that could separate them.

Any work on the front of the engines is best if you remove the exhaust cans. They add little time to the project to remove and you can actually gain a lot of room and then get to quite a bit. Actually plenty of room to sit and if both are out you can lay down. Normally between the engines is tight but the exhaust tubes can be removed to get some extra space when doing some service. A lot to gain by removing just a few hose clamps.

Personally I think the 340SDA is much more workable than the 320DA of the same years and some of the newer boats are even worse.

-Kevin
 
The 340/380 thing came on the table after these post.
Here's 1 of the first 20 or so that came up. Talk about "road hard and...
https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1999-sea-ray-380-sundancer-8607267/

This is a first for me. I've never before seen someone locate a stereo remote in this location.

upload_2023-4-25_7-42-25.png
 
I'm looking for suggestions from other 340 8.1 owners :)

What is the suggested way down to access A/C inlet strainer - between the hot water heater and the engine or between the 2 engines?

I'm not a very large person (5'8 & 160) but I've already failed the test twice this week with climbing down to open the A/C seacock and getting stuck. The A/C strainer seems like a bit more of a reach...

I'm hoping that others have already identified the best way down (and back).
 
Next project. 2000 340. Removed the Ray Marine Nav/GPS. Do I need to do anything to terminate the power and transponder cords? SimRad has new transponder.
 
I'm looking for some advise and thoughts again...

After realizing that my freshwater pump was going on every 10 seconds or so I started looking for a leak... I found it at my hot water heater (picture attached). I looks like the push-to-connect fitting has gone bad.

Has anyone on this forum had to deal with this before? I'll measure the tubing this weekend, but it looks to be around 3/4" on all three connections - although the piece out of the water heater looks to be metal.

Would anyone know if there is anything special about the tee fitting before I go and order one up?

IMG_4178.jpg
 
So I've since found out that it's a Seatech 15mm tee connector. Seatech isn't around anymore but I did find the fitting at a place called Shore Marine in Seattle...

Now the drama is to get in there, replace it, and see if I have other leaks :)

More to follow...
 
So I've since found out that it's a Seatech 15mm tee connector. Seatech isn't around anymore but I did find the fitting at a place called Shore Marine in Seattle...

Now the drama is to get in there, replace it, and see if I have other leaks :)

More to follow...

Freshwatersystems.com is also a great source for some of our oddball connectors. Have used them several times...
 
I'm looking for some advise and thoughts again...

After realizing that my freshwater pump was going on every 10 seconds or so I started looking for a leak... I found it at my hot water heater (picture attached). I looks like the push-to-connect fitting has gone bad.

Has anyone on this forum had to deal with this before? I'll measure the tubing this weekend, but it looks to be around 3/4" on all three connections - although the piece out of the water heater looks to be metal.

Would anyone know if there is anything special about the tee fitting before I go and order one up?

View attachment 144648
So Jk- I can’t tell from the photo where the water is leaking exactly, but I have found often the hose is the issue. If you separate the hose from the tee and find a small groove, I would cut the 15 mm tube back say 1/4 to 1/2 inch with a sharp razor knife and reassemble it. That connector is usually at west marine if you have one locally and it is in fact the issue.
I also noticed the clip appears to be missing on the hot water connection so maybe the fitting is just not pushed onto the straight fitting properly or there is som corrosion on it. Either way I would pull it apart and look at the tubing.
 
First outing with the new to us 2001 340Da. made me smile. The beginning of the trip started with Lake Erie typical conditions of 2' to 3' with an occasional 4' . I ran on plain at 27 mh. and the 8.1s at 3200 rpm with the bow tucked down a little bit handle the conditions with style. The extra weight the 340 and different hull design made a big difference over our 2001 310da. They call them the Great Lakes for a reason and Lake Erie will make or break a lot boat builders. There are a lot of boat builders you don't see in marinas because of it.
 
First outing with the new to us 2001 340Da. made me smile. The beginning of the trip started with Lake Erie typical conditions of 2' to 3' with an occasional 4' . I ran on plain at 27 mh. and the 8.1s at 3200 rpm with the bow tucked down a little bit handle the conditions with style. The extra weight the 340 and different hull design made a big difference over our 2001 310da. They call them the Great Lakes for a reason and Lake Erie will make or break a lot boat builders. There are a lot of boat builders you don't see in marinas because of it.

On-plane with the occasional 4 footer? Brutal...in my experience that's when stuff starts breaking...
 
So Jk- I can’t tell from the photo where the water is leaking exactly, but I have found often the hose is the issue. If you separate the hose from the tee and find a small groove, I would cut the 15 mm tube back say 1/4 to 1/2 inch with a sharp razor knife and reassemble it. That connector is usually at west marine if you have one locally and it is in fact the issue.
I also noticed the clip appears to be missing on the hot water connection so maybe the fitting is just not pushed onto the straight fitting properly or there is som corrosion on it. Either way I would pull it apart and look at the tubing.

Boatrboy, You have a good eye :)

It was, in fact, the tee connection on the heater side had slid out some. But, since I was down there I changed out the tee anyway and placed all 3 clips. At least now I can see that I have a slow drip at the top of my hot water mixing valve. I'll wait and see if I can put off that fix till the fall.

Thanks,
 

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