410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Nice timing, @Strecker25 , I was just about to post asking you a question!!

I'm taking the weekend off to get ready for some hatch work. I am using the existing hatch covers so as you know they need to be shimmed, trimmed and then the openings reduced to make it all work. After I throw some 1/2" trim along the port edge of the opening I plan to router the flooring out, keep it in once piece, and use that to apply to the hatch covers. Based on your experience, is this a crap approach? I figured it would be easier than trying to match up new planks from scratch? I assume I'm missing something...seems almost too easy :)

upload_2023-2-25_9-52-38.png



I did have to approach this a bit differently because of the Johnny Corners. I needed a gap between the hatch covers, so I built a bridge. The routed edges will follow the "bridge" between the covers.

upload_2023-2-25_9-55-34.png
 
Stee6043 said:
Nice timing, @Strecker25 , I was just about to post asking you a question!!

I'm taking the weekend off to get ready for some hatch work. I am using the existing hatch covers so as you know they need to be shimmed, trimmed and then the openings reduced to make it all work. After I throw some 1/2" trim along the port edge of the opening I plan to router the flooring out, keep it in once piece, and use that to apply to the hatch covers. Based on your experience, is this a crap approach? I figured it would be easier than trying to match up new planks from scratch? I assume I'm missing something...seems almost too easy :)

View attachment 140626


I did have to approach this a bit differently because of the Johnny Corners. I needed a gap between the hatch covers, so I built a bridge. The routed edges will follow the "bridge" between the covers.

View attachment 140627
Click to expand...

I think that approach will work for Johnny corners. It didn’t for me since I needed a tight gap so I used new boards. I started to try and match planks and grain but gave up, if I focus on it I get a little annoyed but it made it easier to start with new. Our pattern is busy enough that it blends a bit

I would try and secure your boards somehow before routing them, even if it means just putting something heavy on them (if you can put the hatch subfloor under them). As you cross the seams on the laminate the router will try to pull the click lock apart and it could break the tounge off

oh, and get ready for a mess. I used a flush cut router bit on mine as well and it covered the whole boat in plastic curled shavings. They do vacuum up easy enough though
5B26CB8F-B417-4BAA-A8C3-6D53459FAF38.jpeg
 
Strecker25 said:
I think that approach will work for Johnny corners. It didn’t for me since I needed a tight gap so I used new boards. I started to try and match planks and grain but gave up, if I focus on it I get a little annoyed but it made it easier to start with new. Our pattern is busy enough that it blends a bit

View attachment 140628
Click to expand...

I wouldn't have noticed the plank alignment if you didn't mention it.

I've come back to your photos several times. I like how your two mid hatch covers meet, I really wanted that look but the Johnny's make it impossible. I really struggled with what to do there.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll probably hit the router next weekend. What's the worst that could happen :)
 
Stee6043 said:
I wouldn't have noticed the plank alignment if you didn't mention it.

I've come back to your photos several times. I like how your two mid hatch covers meet, I really wanted that look but the Johnny's make it impossible. I really struggled with what to do there.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll probably hit the router next weekend. What's the worst that could happen :)
Click to expand...

haha yea. I just edited the post and added a bit….get ready for a mess
 
Strecker25 said:
haha yea. I just edited the post and added a bit….get ready for a mess
Click to expand...

I feel like I'm already making a huge mess. I've been using the mid-cabin area to make all of my cuts. But bits and pieces are everywhere at this point. Glad to hear I'm about to make an even bigger mess.

Thanks for the tip on the cutting. I was thinking about taping them across the top. I could also put some weight on the non-hatch sides as well. I don't have the covers under there right now, I didn't want them to interfere with the router. Hmm...
 
Stee6043 said:
I feel like I'm already making a huge mess. I've been using the mid-cabin area to make all of my cuts. But bits and pieces are everywhere at this point. Glad to hear I'm about to make an even bigger mess.

Thanks for the tip on the cutting. I was thinking about taping them across the top. I could also put some weight on the non-hatch sides as well. I don't have the covers under there right now, I didn't want them to interfere with the router. Hmm...
Click to expand...

I think you’ll be fine, just pull the cut pieces out as you get through them. A good high speed router and sharp bit will get through it like butter
 
Pulled out benches out to get them home and really clean before the season starts…gross underneath. Best I can tell the plastic is from when the boat was prepped at the factory and has been sitting under there for 20 years gathering dirt. Certainly one of those jobs that no one but me will know was done but I’ll like having a clean seat base, lol

3F2307AF-EB56-438E-B7DE-0F35F31C297E.jpeg
 
Strecker25 said:
Pulled out benches out to get them home and really clean before the season starts…gross underneath. Best I can tell the plastic is from when the boat was prepped at the factory and has been sitting under there for 20 years gathering dirt. Certainly one of those jobs that no one but me will know was done but I’ll like having a clean seat base, lol

View attachment 140858
Click to expand...
That looks like something that should have bee removed before installation or at least at new dealer prep.
 
Not having any real luck with the search function here. Does anyone have a line on replacement windshield wiper arms? Mine are shot. TIA
 
Strecker25 said:
Pulled out benches out to get them home and really clean before the season starts…gross underneath. Best I can tell the plastic is from when the boat was prepped at the factory and has been sitting under there for 20 years gathering dirt. Certainly one of those jobs that no one but me will know was done but I’ll like having a clean seat base, lol

View attachment 140858
Click to expand...

Yikes. Under my seats I generally find potato chips, pretzels and sand :)
 
I thought I could shim, trim and reuse my existing hatch covers for my flooring project. Reality set in for me yesterday, shimming is not going to work.

Now I wait for glue to dry so I can paint 4 new hatch covers.

If I screw around with this long enough I'm going to be finishing my wax job in July!

52728383713_d5c5acc7f8_h.jpg
 
Gingerly said:
Yeah, I need the arms, not the wipers. I did find that site previously, but I don't know which interface type to buy and there's 4 types (dry/wet knurled, dry/wet drum).
Click to expand...
Mine looked like crap, super rusty. I had them sandblasted and painted. They came out fantastic!
 
Can someone explain how the batteries are set up in a 2001 410 Sundancer. New to me boat, I shut off the battery switches in the salon when I winterized. The Starboard battery set are dead, Port seem fine. When I reconnect I get a good spark on Starboard, nothing on Port. Is there something that is wired "on" even when the mains are turned "Off" (like CO2). I bought very expensive AGM replacements and want to make sure I don't drain them down if parked for a long time without shore power or when winterzed. Thanks.
 
scott1956 said:
Can someone explain how the batteries are set up in a 2001 410 Sundancer. New to me boat, I shut off the battery switches in the salon when I winterized. The Starboard battery set are dead, Port seem fine. When I reconnect I get a good spark on Starboard, nothing on Port. Is there something that is wired "on" even when the mains are turned "Off" (like CO2). I bought very expensive AGM replacements and want to make sure I don't drain them down if parked for a long time without shore power or when winterzed. Thanks.
Click to expand...

we get a similar draw down bht I’ve not chased it enough to verify what it is because I’m at the boat once a month or so to top the batteries off. It’s not the CO, those come on with the solenoids.

maybe the stereo memory draws enough to drain them over time? Seems like it would take a lot to pull down two deep cycle big batteries but I can’t think of much else
 
scott1956 said:
Can someone explain how the batteries are set up in a 2001 410 Sundancer. New to me boat, I shut off the battery switches in the salon when I winterized. The Starboard battery set are dead, Port seem fine. When I reconnect I get a good spark on Starboard, nothing on Port. Is there something that is wired "on" even when the mains are turned "Off" (like CO2). I bought very expensive AGM replacements and want to make sure I don't drain them down if parked for a long time without shore power or when winterzed. Thanks.
Click to expand...

You may want to update your profile, it says you're still searching for a 370 Aft Cabin :)

As far as I know the only thing that doesn't go through my battery switches are the bilge pumps. Is it possible you had a plumbing leak that caused your pumps to run while in storage? This can happen...ask me how I know. ha.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,186
Messages
1,428,174
Members
61,097
Latest member
Mdeluca407
Back
Top