420/44 DB Owners Club

[Alex F]

Plan on moving up to 420db. Questions for any owners out there that have A/C on the bridge. How effective and efficient is having A/C with the glass/canvas enclosure vs opening up and getting good air flow. Bear i n mind I am talking south Florida as primary area of operation.

If you wish to read the 34 pages long version of my installation, here's the link: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/54486-420DB-–-Bridge-A-C-and-Heat-Installation

In short, IMO, leaving in one of the hottest parts of the country I would think twice about having any bridge boat equipped with A/C on a 120VAC circuit. I've been enjoying my bridge A/C-heating system for two years now and can tell you that it's night and day difference vs. not having one. As you could see in my thread, I've installed one of the most powerful units ever made for 120VAC. However, for the most part my boat is in the Northeast, so this is why I'm very satisfied. If I was living and boating in FL all year long, I'm afraid that my level of satisfaction could be lower.

Having enclosed bridge makes the space feel like a sauna on hot sunny days. The temps can easily reach over 120 degrees. As I recall, even when you get the bridge A/C option installed by SR, they will explain to you that the unit might knock off 25-30 degrees. Now you do the math. Granted that having A/C running for a while and creating dry environment at around 90 degrees temp and cold air blowing at you is no comparison to those with (no A/C) open curtains running at humid 100 degrees temps. My powerful unit can bring it down to mid 80s, but there's no way I can see lower 70s on very hot summer days.

The biggest issue is that you're simply reaching the limit at what 120VAC self-contained units can deliver. On top of it all, all the 120VAC boats have power management issue and adding monster "juice user" makes a big contribution to power management issue. An example, you can run only 2 A/C units at the time. You trigger 3rd unit and you'll pop one of the main breakers (mostly port side where Bridge and FWD SR units would be wired).

My point is simple, when you compare to bridge boats running on 240VAC, the power management issue pretty much doesn't exist. You end up with more powerful equipment demanding much less AMPs. Let's look at the bigger sister-ships 480/500/520....etc. They have split A/C units (two of them), where two evaporators are located up on the bridge. I don't remember of the top of my head, but I think those are 24K BTU units. Owners of those boats can tell you that keeping the bridge at lowers 70s on hot days is not an issue.

Hope this helps.

 

[searsb]

Thanks Alex,
That is exactly the information I was looking for!

 

[Converse48]

Agree with Alex…
The other issue in addition to power management is that the larger boats also have hardtops which make a HUGE difference when it comes to thermal loads and A/C.
I installed bridge A/C in my version of this boat. It worked OK, but with the massive thermal loss of a soft-top it's sort of like trying to air condition the deck on the back of your house.

 

[sb in gp]

One of the speaker on the ceiling in the salon is not working. Can hear a buzz coming from it but no sound. Do you think this is a wiring issue or a bad speaker? Thanks.


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[CougarCruiser]

One of the speaker on the ceiling in the salon is not working. Can hear a buzz coming from it but no sound. Do you think this is a wiring issue or a bad speaker? Thanks.


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probably back at the amp.

I just replaced the salon speakers and crappy amp. Huge improvement in sound.

i had loose connections at the amp and have had to tighten them previously.

the connections at the speakers are part of the wiring harness and I found the connectors to be pretty well attached to the stock cheapy Panasonic speakers.

 

[Alex F]

Does anyone know if we have 900 series toilet seat covers? I know it's about 14" size, but didn't see a detailed label. I need to replace mine.

 

[JNMNL52]

Question: Has anyone had a failure of the fuel gage in the 4 in 1 instrument cluster? The starboard gage reading went to zero with 3/4 tank. Looked for a circuit breaker or fuse but could not find one. I removed the dash and swapped gages with the problem going to the other side, so the gage works ok. The problem most likely is a faulty tank sensor which is a real pain to get at or a covered fuse on the engine somewhere. Any ideas or lessons learned?

Update for the benefit of other 42/44DB owners - Had the dealership come out and troubleshoot the problem. There is a fuel sender access panel under the small salon sofa. Remove the sofa cushion nearest the entertainment center and you will see the access panel on the floor. Problem is only three of the four panels screws are visible. The fourth screw is hidden under the sofa wooden framing. The mech cut the floor panel along the edge of the sofa framing leaving the fourth screw hidden. This allowed the panel to be removed. Then the sound insulation was cut out and the top of the sender was visible. From this point the wiring can be tested or the sender can be removed and replaced by unscrewing it and pulling it straight up. In my case the sender tested OK. The mech went up to the Cummins Smart Craft Diesel View panel on the bridge and started trouble shooting. He found that , for some unknown reason, the diesel view system lost its configuration and was only seeing the port tank. He reconfigured the system to tell it a starboard tank was installed and the problem was fixed. Go figure how that could have happened on its own....but it did.

 

[Victoria's Secret]

This year rather than paying the yard to winterize the boat i am doing it with the help of friends. Last weekend we changed the oil/filters on the mains, transmissions, and genny. Soon it will be time to winterize the motors and the water system. In the past the yard has used pink for the water system but I am hearing that many people use compressed air and blow out the lines. What is the prefered method used here. Also as a follow up how much Pink is needed just for the mains/jenny, and then if I do use it for the water system how much more should I purchase.

As a side question it did not appear that my ZF transmissions had a filter. The manual (and it is not very good) shows that it has a filter screen but we could not get to it. Suggestions anyone? Thanks all..... BK.... :--)))

 

[JNMNL52]

This year rather than paying the yard to winterize the boat i am doing it with the help of friends. Last weekend we changed the oil/filters on the mains, transmissions, and genny. Soon it will be time to winterize the motors and the water system. In the past the yard has used pink for the water system but I am hearing that many people use compressed air and blow out the lines. What is the prefered method used here. Also as a follow up how much Pink is needed just for the mains/jenny, and then if I do use it for the water system how much more should I purchase.

As a side question it did not appear that my ZF transmissions had a filter. The manual (and it is not very good) shows that it has a filter screen but we could not get to it. Suggestions anyone? Thanks all..... BK.... :--)))

Regarding your transmission filter screens, there is a lateral support stringer on the bilge bottom that blocks the removal of the filter screen. I had to cut a "U" shaped hole with a hole saw to eliminate this interference with removing the screen. Not designed very well to say the least.

 

[JNMNL52]

Replacement of Master Head Duck Bill Valves

I need to replace the duck bills on the master head side. I read the instructions and it seems pretty straight forward except I cannot get access to the vacuflush system. I would need a midget or it appears the starboard exhaust riser needs to be removed to allow sufficient access to R&R the valves. Does anyone have any experience or lessons learned with this?

 

[Alex F]

This year rather than paying the yard to winterize the boat i am doing it with the help of friends. Last weekend we changed the oil/filters on the mains, transmissions, and genny. Soon it will be time to winterize the motors and the water system. In the past the yard has used pink for the water system but I am hearing that many people use compressed air and blow out the lines. What is the prefered method used here. Also as a follow up how much Pink is needed just for the mains/jenny, and then if I do use it for the water system how much more should I purchase.

As a side question it did not appear that my ZF transmissions had a filter. The manual (and it is not very good) shows that it has a filter screen but we could not get to it. Suggestions anyone? Thanks all..... BK.... :--)))

Bill,

I'm conservative when it comes to antifreeze. So, I use quite a bit. As I recall, all in all I buy around 25-26 gallons. But, this includes all the systems. Engines will take 6-7gal and genny will take 2-3.

Being in our area I don't feel comfortable blowing the FW lines. However, I do by-pass the HWH and blow it out. The rest of the lines get pink.


Here's the link to my HWH bypass: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/47691-HWH-Switched-from-antifreeze-to-air


Regarding transmissions, the filter is there. But, it's more of a rock catcher. It doesn't need replacement as it's a metal screen. Good cleaning will do the job. Please don't cut any holes, just get the right tool for the job and its easy to get it. I think the socket is #34 or 36.

Here's the filter:

 

[JNMNL52]

Bill,

I'm conservative when it comes to antifreeze. So, I use quite a bit. As I recall, all in all I buy around 25-26 gallons. But, this includes all the systems. Engines will take 6-7gal and genny will take 2-3.

Being in our area I don't feel comfortable blowing the FW lines. However, I do by-pass the HWH and blow it out. The rest of the lines get pink.


Here's the link to my HWH bypass: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/47691-HWH-Switched-from-antifreeze-to-air


Regarding transmissions, the filter is there. But, it's more of a rock catcher. It doesn't need replacement as it's a metal screen. Good cleaning will do the job. Please don't cut any holes, just get the right tool for the job and its easy to get it. I think the socket is #34 or 36.

Here's the filter:

View attachment 37642

In my configuration it was not a question of using the correct tool to remove the filter which I have. The filter was longer than the clearance available to withdraw it out of the transmission housing. Physically could not happen without cutting the stringer.....which my dealer recommended and performed.

 

[searsb]

Could anyone give me a rough estimate on insurance cost on a 2007 44DB? I know,i know, I know. it depends, but just a ball park figure on a reasonable policy for coastal water in florida, no claims , no record, basic policy $2000 $4000 $10,000????
Thanks

 

[Hampton]

5000

 

[searsb]

5000

Thanks

 

[Victoria's Secret]

Bill,

I'm conservative when it comes to antifreeze. So, I use quite a bit. As I recall, all in all I buy around 25-26 gallons. But, this includes all the systems. Engines will take 6-7gal and genny will take 2-3.

Being in our area I don't feel comfortable blowing the FW lines. However, I do by-pass the HWH and blow it out. The rest of the lines get pink.


Here's the link to my HWH bypass: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/47691-HWH-Switched-from-antifreeze-to-air


Regarding transmissions, the filter is there. But, it's more of a rock catcher. It doesn't need replacement as it's a metal screen. Good cleaning will do the job. Please don't cut any holes, just get the right tool for the job and its easy to get it. I think the socket is #34 or 36.

Here's the filter:

View attachment 37642

Thank you for sharing your knowledge on this Alex. See you soon..... BK.... :--)))

 

[bmac]

Hey, Alex. I see you had your shaft taped so I am guessing you had done some rust clean up and touch up painting. Did you get the paint from Cummins? If not what brand and color paint did you use?

 

[cod]

Brian,
I've done the same as well and Cummins does sell cans of paint. I've gotten it at the Cummins location at 890 Zerega Avenue in the Bronx.

 

[Alex F]

In my configuration it was not a question of using the correct tool to remove the filter which I have. The filter was longer than the clearance available to withdraw it out of the transmission housing. Physically could not happen without cutting the stringer.....which my dealer recommended and performed.

I'm suprised to hear this. I always thought that our configuration was very much alike. I would expect to hear many more cases (if not all 44DBs) where the solution MM proposed was used across the board. I hope other 44DB owners will chime in with their experience.

Hey, Alex. I see you had your shaft taped so I am guessing you had done some rust clean up and touch up painting. Did you get the paint from Cummins? If not what brand and color paint did you use?

Brian, I get Cummins original paint, in a spray can, from my Cummins mechanic. It usually lasts a while. The pic is very old, once I addressed the rust couple of years ago, the paint holds not too bad.

Question for you on the trainy filters. Did you have to drill holes in the stringers to get to yours? I don't recall you ever mentioning it and was under the impression that you could get yours out (on your POed 44DB) like I do.

 

[ZZ13]

Alex, I also noticed two spare seals on the prop shaft. My '01 400DB only has one spare. Anyone know if that means one has been used in the past? Or did my year only get one spare?