420/44 DB Owners Club

[bmac]

I'm suprised to hear this. I always thought that our configuration was very much alike. I would expect to hear many more cases (if not all 44DBs) where the solution MM proposed was used across the board. I hope other 44DB owners will chime in with their experience.




Brian, I get Cummins original paint, in a spray can, from my Cummins mechanic. It usually lasts a while. The pic is very old, once I addressed the rust couple of years ago, the paint holds not too bad.

Question for you on the trainy filters. Did you have to drill holes in the stringers to get to yours? I don't recall you ever mentioning it and was under the impression that you could get yours out (on your POed 44DB) like I do.

Alex, i never had an issue with stringer interference in getting my tranny filters out. What did you use to get the rust off? A wire brush? Any other surface prep?

 

[bmac]

Brian,
I've done the same as well and Cummins does sell cans of paint. I've gotten it at the Cummins location at 890 Zerega Avenue in the Bronx.

Thanks. Some good news, Cummins moved from the Zerega Ave. office to Vets Highway in Bohemia.

 

[ZZ13]

Alex, i never had an issue with stringer interference in getting my tranny filters out. What did you use to get the rust off? A wire brush? Any other surface prep?

I dabbed a rust reverser wherever rust remained after brushing. Also, for my '01 Cummins I found Rustoleum Canvas White in the rattle can to be a perfect match.

 

[Alex F]

Alex, i never had an issue with stringer interference in getting my tranny filters out.

That's what I thought.....

...What did you use to get the rust off? A wire brush? Any other surface prep?

Just sand paper, wire brush. Wipe, brush it off it use air compressor to blow the dust off. The last step in prep process was break cleaner. Then the surface is ready for painting. I usually apply at least two coats of paint.

 

[JNMNL52]

Replacement of Master Head Duck Bill Valves

I need to replace the duck bills on the master head side. I read the instructions and it seems pretty straight forward except I cannot get access to the vacuflush system. I would need a midget or it appears the starboard exhaust riser needs to be removed to allow sufficient access to R&R the valves. Does anyone have any experience or lessons learned with this?

Alex: any experience with replacing master head duck bill valves?

 

[Alex F]

Alex: any experience with replacing master head duck bill valves?

So far I never had to replace mine on any of my boats. Either how I use it, or just lucky, but they were always fine. I have no doubts I'll have to deal with this one day. In fact I was thinking on stacking some in my "spare parts box".

However, there were number of threads on the topic. Even though on different models, I'm sure the process is pretty much the same. Chances are SR used the same pumps on similar size vessels, regardless if it's DA or DB.

Here are couple of threads to give you some direction:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/56737-What-size-Duckbill-valves-do-I-need-for-a-2006-44-DA

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/43029-Duckbill-failing-What-are-the-signs

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/30700-How-to-replace-duckbills-on-a-380-vacuflush

Here's the site some of our members (myself included) got head parts from: http://www.northeastsanitation.com/

In regards to the access, I believe that you will need to take off the exhaust pipe. It's not a big deal at all, as long as you have a helping hand. I took that exhaust pipe out when my HWH went bad.

I've gotten in there from behind the generator route, several times, and I can tell you it's not fun. It all depends on the extend of the job and helping hands availability. If you choose behind genny route, make sure to place all the tools and parts within your hand reach. It takes a long time to get there and settle, so if you forget something and no one is there to hand it to you, you'll be frustrated to say the least.

 

[fwebster]

In my configuration it was not a question of using the correct tool to remove the filter which I have. The filter was longer than the clearance available to withdraw it out of the transmission housing. Physically could not happen without cutting the stringer.....which my dealer recommended and performed.

You guys please excuse me for a late response here since I don't regularly read the "Official XXXX" threads, but in the photo on this post the member interfering with the transmission filter removal isn't a stringer. It is just the glassed in dam for the aft end of the engine sump. It is part of the required method for contain an engine oil spill. It can be notched as needed to remove the filter without affecting the structural integrity of the boat or engine support system.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled programming..........

 

[Alex F]

You guys please excuse me for a late response here since I don't regularly read the "Official XXXX" threads, but in the photo on this post the member interfering with the transmission filter removal isn't a stringer. It is just the glassed in dam for the aft end of the engine sump. It is part of the required method for contain an engine oil spill. It can be notched as needed to remove the filter without affecting the structural integrity of the boat or engine support system.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled programming..........

Frank,

I totally agree with you. It's just from my knowledge, if others have (just as I did) managed to do the job without cutting anything, then why make simple things more complicated? It's tight in there, but it's just enough to clear the filter out, unless for some reason (on a particular hull number) the engines are moved back closer by an inch or two. Maybe this is the case in question here.

 

[fwebster]

Alex,

The forward to aft location of the motor mounts are set using a jig. I'd bet the issue on getting the filter out of one boat but not the other has more to do with the height of the motor mount adjustment than anything else. That dimension is set using a laser device and is dependent upon the angle and position if the shaft tube in the hull bottom. I'm thinking some engines just sit lower than others.

 

[JNMNL52]

So far I never had to replace mine on any of my boats. Either how I use it, or just lucky, but they were always fine. I have no doubts I'll have to deal with this one day. In fact I was thinking on stacking some in my "spare parts box".

However, there were number of threads on the topic. Even though on different models, I'm sure the process is pretty much the same. Chances are SR used the same pumps on similar size vessels, regardless if it's DA or DB.

Here are couple of threads to give you some direction:

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/56737-What-size-Duckbill-valves-do-I-need-for-a-2006-44-DA

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/43029-Duckbill-failing-What-are-the-signs

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/30700-How-to-replace-duckbills-on-a-380-vacuflush

Here's the site some of our members (myself included) got head parts from: http://www.northeastsanitation.com/

In regards to the access, I believe that you will need to take off the exhaust pipe. It's not a big deal at all, as long as you have a helping hand. I took that exhaust pipe out when my HWH went bad.

I've gotten in there from behind the generator route, several times, and I can tell you it's not fun. It all depends on the extend of the job and helping hands availability. If you choose behind genny route, make sure to place all the tools and parts within your hand reach. It takes a long time to get there and settle, so if you forget something and no one is there to hand it to you, you'll be frustrated to say the least.

Thanks Alex; I think I will give the behind the genny route a try and see if I can fit.

 

[Alex F]

Thanks Alex; I think I will give the behind the genny route a try and see if I can fit.

Let me share few tips on behind genny route. I always bring two old throwable cushions with me. One is usually placed on the stringer by the PORT side rudder. The other is placed by the STBD side rudder and also covers part of the steering. As you crawl in there, you'll be first on your knees, so you place them on the cushions. Then you'll end up laying on one side (mostly right). Move the cushions along to keep placing them under your knees as you keep moving forward.

As you get past the genny, the hardest part will be get past the junction where genny and mains exhausts cross each other. To get thru this junction I have to do some of the moves Catherine Zeta-Jones did in movie Entrapment. Being flexible and moving one part of your buddy at the time (while twisting and turning) is the name the game there.

The biggest problem with task like this is not to break anything that gets on your way. Watch where you step or lay down. One of the items that always gets in the way is the trim tabs tubes where they get connected to the reservoar. Be very cautious there.

 

[searsb]

Does anyone know where I could find Sea Ray production #'s for previous model years? Specifically, how many Sea ray 420 DB were made in 2007?
Thanks up front ,because I know someone will know this.

 

[fwebster]

Sea Ray does not publish production numbers…………..

 

[searsb]

Sea Ray does not publish production numbers…………..

Really? Can you get this info if you called them? Any guess as to how many might have been built/sold? Just curious as to how many are out there.

 

[Hampton]

This past couple of weeks:

Bottom paint
Tuned props
New coolant X 3
Valves adjusted X 3
Heat exchangers cleaned X 3
Buffed/Waxed completely on sides/stern

Starboard Prop is Loose!!!! I dove the boat because I thought I had hit something last week, but I had not. The starboard prop can be spun about 10 - 15 degrees forward and back, and it can be tilted forward and aft by grabbing the blades and pushing/pulling forward and aft.

The boat really runs great, but there was a slight vibration - now I know why.

How do you have a prop tightened in the water?

 

[Alex F]

....Starboard Prop is Loose!!!! I dove the boat because I thought I had hit something last week, but I had not. The starboard prop can be spun about 10 - 15 degrees forward and back, and it can be tilted forward and aft by grabbing the blades and pushing/pulling forward and aft.

The boat really runs great, but there was a slight vibration - now I know why.

How do you have a prop tightened in the water?

John,

I had this happened the first season I got the boat, but actually on both sides. Due to my location at the time, it was easier (and inexpensive, only about $150 + tips) to do a quick short haul to get this fixed.

I'm sure your local divers do this all the time and it might be something very simple and inexpensive for them to handle. But, if you have the diving gear and want to do it yourself, I don't see why the procedure on tightening the props underwater would be different from hanging in slings. You'll need a big wrench (preferably with pipe extension for greater leverage), a 2x6 (or 2x8) board or pipe wrench to prevent the shaft/prop from spinning. Between pipe wrench and 2x6, I prefer the 2x6 method. Last time my props were swapped, the yard guy used 2x6 leaning against the strut and the rudder. The prop was catching it sort of in the middle and closer to the hub, but not by the tip. This made me believe that it was safe enough preventing messing up the tuning that was just done. It would really help if you had another person holding the board and handing you tools.

Good luck.

 

[MasterFab]

In a case like this, I feel more comfortable with a short haul, and here's why. That prop has been loose on the shaft, cycled between forward and reverse at least a few times. Also, the vibration is evidence that the prop is not seating properly on the shaft. In forward, it should seat nicely on the taper, and often, an operator won't even realize the nut is loose. For these reasons, I'd pull the prop, and carefully examine, or just replace, the key. Also, carefully inspect the keyways on both the shaft and in the prop for deformation or burs, and dress them if needed.

The prop "fit" on the shaft should be evaluated, without the key in place, using prussian blue dye or other metal marker. I've gotten away with a black magic marker in the past, in a pinch. If lapping is needed, now is the time....

Dale

 

[Hampton]

The marina is going to pull the boat and make it right. I guess sometimes it pays to pay full retail.

 

[mistercomputerman]

As Dale mentioned, lapping the prop to the shaft is sometimes required. My Propscan guy says use valve grinding compound and work the prop back and forth, moving forward in 1/4 turns, then removing to check, until you can see that the prop and shaft are mated completely.

 

[sb in gp]

Has anyone changed out the raymarine 240 vhf radio. My external speaker has no sound and my mic cord is splitting.