500/520 DB official thread

[ttmott]

Yesterday we hauled for an insurance survey. I left a couple of the battery-operated systems on like engine room blowers, some cabin lights, the security system inverter, and Sat antenna to see the impact on the batteries over a couple of hours. This morning I pulled up the Victron VRM data from the Victron battery management system. I set some parameters pretty conservative and received a number of alerts via emails also. I'm impressed, a fantastic battery management tool for sure. What is interesting is the similarity between the two battery banks which power vastly different loads. It appears the engine room blowers which utilize both banks are the primary demand. Here is a sample of the histogram

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[Tim Fila]

I believe we've worked everything out. Should have wire transfer today or tomorrow.

 

[Tim Fila]

Wire was completed today. She is headed to Honduras via Miami, next week.

 

[Havana Shamrock]

I believe we've worked everything out. Should have wire transfer today or tomorrow.

Congrats!!! Gotta be honest glad we sold this year also the world is crazy. And we’re enjoying the crap out of the small day boat…..

 

[ttmott]

@swaterhouse @Alex F @bmac
Re. Generator Shutdown and fuel issues
Solved
My issues with the generator shutting down which then became hard starting are corrected. I pulled all of the fuel hoses and had them checked; no issues. Then rebuilt the racor filter assembly; no improvement. Verified the lift pump was operating correctly; check. Finally, I pulled the fuel tank feed selector valve and tested it in the shop with a vacuum. I plugged the two tank ports and pulled the vacuum from the generator interface port. It would hold 25 inches for a bit of time then for some reason would release the vacuum; that is air getting into the fuel system. Any movement of the handle/stem would release the vacuum. Switching the valve between the starboard and port tanks would release the vacuum. The valve stem leaks.... As a check I also tested the Return valve, it held a perfect vacuum regardless of handle position.
The valve is easy to disassemble, and it is a very simple configuration. There is the plastic plug that the stem turns which selects port 1, port 2, or off. There is a detent plate for the selection "click". A spring that presses the plug into the housing, holds the detent plate, and loads the O-ring seal between the valve bonnet and stem. It is that O-ring seal that leaks air into the system.
To further compound the issue in my case the placard which has the selection printing on it didn't have the correct spacing for the valve stem/handle holes and was putting lateral pressure on the valve stem causing uneven loading on that stem seal O-ring.
So, the $1 fix is to replace the stem O-ring with a slightly thicker Buna-N one (NAPA Autoparts) or the $60 fix to replace the valve. Obviously, correct the hole spacing on the placard in my case. Replacing the valve is an issue as it appears only Moller provides a similar configuration which is a pretty cheesy Chinese brass knock-off.
Anyhow - my generator fuel woes seem to have been corrected.

 

[ttmott]

@swaterhouse @Alex F @bmac
Re. Generator Shutdown and fuel issues
Solved
My issues with the generator shutting down which then became hard starting are corrected. I pulled all of the fuel hoses and had them checked; no issues. Then rebuilt the racor filter assembly; no improvement. Verified the lift pump was operating correctly; check. Finally, I pulled the fuel tank feed selector valve and tested it in the shop with a vacuum. I plugged the two tank ports and pulled the vacuum from the generator interface port. It would hold 25 inches for a bit of time then for some reason would release the vacuum; that is air getting into the fuel system. Any movement of the handle/stem would release the vacuum. Switching the valve between the starboard and port tanks would release the vacuum. The valve stem leaks.... As a check I also tested the Return valve, it held a perfect vacuum regardless of handle position.
The valve is easy to disassemble, and it is a very simple configuration. There is the plastic plug that the stem turns which selects port 1, port 2, or off. There is a detent plate for the selection "click". A spring that presses the plug into the housing, holds the detent plate, and loads the O-ring seal between the valve bonnet and stem. It is that O-ring seal that leaks air into the system.
To further compound the issue in my case the placard which has the selection printing on it didn't have the correct spacing for the valve stem/handle holes and was putting lateral pressure on the valve stem causing uneven loading on that stem seal O-ring.
So, the $1 fix is to replace the stem O-ring with a slightly thicker Buna-N one (NAPA Autoparts) or the $60 fix to replace the valve. Obviously, correct the hole spacing on the placard in my case. Replacing the valve is an issue as it appears only Moller provides a similar configuration which is a pretty cheesy Chinese brass knock-off.
Anyhow - my generator fuel woes seem to have been corrected.

Pics -

 

[Irie308]

@ttmott great info. Have been meaning to take a look at my selector valves. One is very hard to turn. Wonder if previous owner tighten down to resolve vacuum leak. Will be on my list to service. Do you have a source for replacement components?

 

[Alex F]

@swaterhouse @Alex F @bmac
Re. Generator Shutdown and fuel issues
Solved
My issues with the generator shutting down which then became hard starting are corrected. I pulled all of the fuel hoses and had them checked; no issues. Then rebuilt the racor filter assembly; no improvement. Verified the lift pump was operating correctly; check. Finally, I pulled the fuel tank feed selector valve and tested it in the shop with a vacuum. I plugged the two tank ports and pulled the vacuum from the generator interface port. It would hold 25 inches for a bit of time then for some reason would release the vacuum; that is air getting into the fuel system. Any movement of the handle/stem would release the vacuum. Switching the valve between the starboard and port tanks would release the vacuum. The valve stem leaks.... As a check I also tested the Return valve, it held a perfect vacuum regardless of handle position.
The valve is easy to disassemble, and it is a very simple configuration. There is the plastic plug that the stem turns which selects port 1, port 2, or off. There is a detent plate for the selection "click". A spring that presses the plug into the housing, holds the detent plate, and loads the O-ring seal between the valve bonnet and stem. It is that O-ring seal that leaks air into the system.
To further compound the issue in my case the placard which has the selection printing on it didn't have the correct spacing for the valve stem/handle holes and was putting lateral pressure on the valve stem causing uneven loading on that stem seal O-ring.
So, the $1 fix is to replace the stem O-ring with a slightly thicker Buna-N one (NAPA Autoparts) or the $60 fix to replace the valve. Obviously, correct the hole spacing on the placard in my case. Replacing the valve is an issue as it appears only Moller provides a similar configuration which is a pretty cheesy Chinese brass knock-off.
Anyhow - my generator fuel woes seem to have been corrected.

That's an excellent find, Tom. I'm glad you got to the bottom of it. Thanks for sharing.

If I recall, during my troubleshooting process, I've bypassed the selector valves to minimize number of variables at the feed line.

Perhaps, what helped in my case is the fact that I use the selector valves on a regular basis. The idea is to balance the fuel between the 2 tanks. Age is an obvious factor. But, I think that letting the selector valves sit for too long adds to the degrading process.

 

[ttmott]

@ttmott great info. Have been meaning to take a look at my selector valves. One is very hard to turn. Wonder if previous owner tighten down to resolve vacuum leak. Will be on my list to service. Do you have a source for replacement components?

There is nothing to tighten it down. If you squirt a bit of oil into the stem packing (o-ring) then pull the handle as you turn it, it will rotate very easily. Pulling the handle lifts the plug away from the body (and compresses the spring a bit); it's that plug that gets sticky.

 

[Irie308]

There is nothing to tighten it down. If you squirt a bit of oil into the stem packing (o-ring) then pull the handle as you turn it, it will rotate very easily. Pulling the handle lifts the plug away from the body (and compresses the spring a bit); it's that plug that gets sticky.

Thanks! Will give it a shot.

 

[rlynch03]

Generator Exhaust Hose end of life…

While taking the generator casing off to replace the sound deadening materials I found a new repair needed. The 2” exhaust hose coming off the generator is showing significant cracking and rust stains from an early leak.

Just fyi for you’ll…

 

[Irie308]

Absolutely check those hoses periodically. Especially the ones that are out of sight and hardest to reach. Our survey said to check our hoses. They weren't kidding. When I crawled behind the generator to get a look at the exhaust hose this is what I found. Came apart in my hands on removal.

 

[spikedaddy99]

Door lock disassembled. What's your guess to how long that tip is supposed to be? Anyone have their boat and a ruler handy?

Update: Local machine shop said $60 to make a new latch. I will re-update if it actually works!!

 

[j98052]

Has anyone replaced their Splendide washer/dryer? Ours is malfunctioning, and we use it during the summer, and I'm not sure it's worth repairing given that it's 12 years old.

Ideally I'd like to put stand alone washer and dryer where the shelves currently sit.

 

[carterchapman]

Door lock disassembled. What's your guess to how long that tip is supposed to be? Anyone have their boat and a ruler handy?

Update: Local machine shop said $60 to make a new latch. I will re-update if it actually works!!

$60 is cheap! That darn Taylormade lock assembly is like $3300 - IF you can get it!!

 

[rlynch03]

Has anyone replaced their Splendide washer/dryer? Ours is malfunctioning, and we use it during the summer, and I'm not sure it's worth repairing given that it's 12 years old.

Ideally I'd like to put stand alone washer and dryer where the shelves currently sit.

Haven’t replaced the Washer and Dryer but I did replace a small power supply that cost $85. Mine was working intermittently. Was an easy repair and I do have photos if you want them.

 

[j98052]

Haven’t replaced the Washer and Dryer but I did replace a small power supply that cost $85. Mine was working intermittently. Was an easy repair and I do have photos if you want them.

Sure that would be great.

 

[rlynch03]

Sure that would be great.

what issues are you having with the w/d?

 

[j98052]

what issues are you having with the w/d?

We put a couple items in and started it. At some point it stopped running (with water inside), and several of the lights were solid. I tried the troubleshooting steps, such as holding one of the buttons down, I unplugged it, etc, but it stayed in that state. I had to pull it out in order to manually release the door in order to get the clothes out.

Based on some internet research, I removed and replaced a large capacitor, but nothing changed. At that point my body had enough of working in that tight space.

Given that it’s 12 years old, I hesitate to hire someone to try to repair it. But I’m game to try another repair.

 

[ttmott]

We put a couple items in and started it. At some point it stopped running (with water inside), and several of the lights were solid. I tried the troubleshooting steps, such as holding one of the buttons down, I unplugged it, etc, but it stayed in that state. I had to pull it out in order to manually release the door in order to get the clothes out.

Based on some internet research, I removed and replaced a large capacitor, but nothing changed. At that point my body had enough of working in that tight space.

Given that it’s 12 years old, I hesitate to hire someone to try to repair it. But I’m game to try another repair.

I had this happen - ended up being the water level sensor. The sensor is located under the top in the front right corner. It took more time to pull the unit forward than replace the sensor. If I remember correctly it was like $60.