Anode Kit ?

[Suthrn]

I am looking to change the anodes on my Blll and while looking at the Merc website they list 2 part numbers. Can anyone help me figure out which one is right? The boat is a 2007 used mostly in salt and brackish waters. Thanks for any help.

888760Q02

or

888761Q02

 

[Rono007]

Did you try BoatZincs.com?

 

[Suthrn]

I did check boatzinc.com but was wanting to go with merc if I can figure out which part number is right.

 

[Rono007]

A quick Google search shows that 888761Q02 is Aluminum (brackish). The other part number (888760Q02) looks to be Magnesium (fresh). The other is Zinc, for salt water.

 

[Suthrn]

A quick Google search shows that 888761Q02 is Aluminum (brackish). The other part number (888760Q02) looks to be Magnesium (fresh). The other is Zinc, for salt water.

Thanks for that. I guess I could have done that too. I'm going to go with the aluminum since I run both salt and brackish. Thats what boatzincs.com recommends anyway, I think. Thanks again.

 

[Lazy Daze]

You're in Northeaset, MD? One suggestion... check out Navalloy anodes from Performance Metals. They're an aluminum anode, but have some zinc in them.

However, the absolute best thing to do is talk to a local shop and see what they recommend - they will know your water the best and can give you the best advice.

 

[Suthrn]

I'm in Delaware.

 

[Bridog]

Thanks for that. I guess I could have done that too. I'm going to go with the aluminum since I run both salt and brackish. Thats what boatzincs.com recommends anyway, I think. Thanks again.

Good call. Mercury suggest's Aluminum. Magnesium is for Fresh water only.

 

[Dave S]

These two charts will help you to decide which is the right anode material to specify which is either Aluminum or Zinc for Salt Water. It has a lot to do with your boat. http://www.boatzincs.com/pdfs/Which_Anodes_Should_I_Use-Chart_Merc-B.pdf http://www.boatzincs.com/pdfs/Which_Anodes_Should_I_Use-Chart_Merc-A.pdf

Also, since you have a 2007 model boat, you have the newer Bravo 3 drive which has an extra anode on the cavitation plate (for a total of two compared to one for the older B3s) as well as a prop nut which the older B3s don't have. This is the correct aluminum anode kit that you can get from boat zincs http://www.boatzincs.com/bravo3-alum-kit.html
If you decide to go with zinc instead of aluminum, then it will be a different part number.

Dave

 

[Bridog]

Dave, Chart A is a bit confusing. Don't most Sea Ray's come with a Galvanic Isolator? So you would need ZN (Zinc) only if you don't have one installed in a salt water environment. Is that correct? A 2007 270AJ should have one.

 

[Dave S]

Dave, Chart A is a bit confusing. Don't most Sea Ray's come with a Galvanic Isolator? So you would need ZN (Zinc) only if you don't have one installed in a salt water environment. Is that correct? A 2007 270AJ should have one.

The 2007 270AJ is equipped with a galvanic isolator according to Sea Ray's specs http://www.searay.com/Page.aspx/pmId/81081/pageId/10250/view/Overview/Past-Models.aspx (click on Features) so if he is in salt water he should pick aluminum.

I just wanted to be complete as I can in my reply in case someone else ever looks at it for reference and has to make the same choice in the future.

Dave

 

[Weave]

What comes on Alphas and Bravos from the factory? I will be putting in a slip this year and want to ensure I am good to go. Looking at boat zincs.com they say aluminum came with stainless propped boats....should I stay with aluminum on my SD with NO shorepower?

 

[alexworden]

Good God! What a totally confusing mess of contradicting information this thread is. It's clear to me that Magnesium is the 'least noble' type of anode.

I've read several conflicting pieces of information about Aluminum vs Zinc here and elsewhere. If Al lasted longer than Zn, then why would it be recommended for use in brackish water?

If you say 'works better' that means NOTHING if you don't explain what you mean. :smt021 Do you mean 'lasts longer' or 'protects better' both are obviously conflicting.

Clearly, the correct anode type will be the one that:
a) is less noble than your equipment (outdrive)
b) dissolves fast enough so as not to become ineffective (covered in crud)
c) lasts the longest provided the a) and b) above are true

So, can anyone with a REAL understanding of this clarify... Are Al anodes more or less noble than Zn anodes? Note - just because you have a certificate doesn't mean your understanding is not wrong!

I also wonder... theoretically... if you were proactive and wiped / scrubbed off the crud from zinc anodes often enough that they would be a good choice in fresh water and they'd last a lot longer?

 

[jason78]

Good God! What a totally confusing mess of contradicting information this thread is. It's clear to me that Magnesium is the 'least noble' type of anode.

I've read several conflicting pieces of information about Aluminum vs Zinc here and elsewhere. If Al lasted longer than Zn, then why would it be recommended for use in brackish water?

If you say 'works better' that means NOTHING if you don't explain what you mean. :smt021 Do you mean 'lasts longer' or 'protects better' both are obviously conflicting.

Clearly, the correct anode type will be the one that:
a) is less noble than your equipment (outdrive)
b) dissolves fast enough so as not to become ineffective (covered in crud)
c) lasts the longest provided the a) and b) above are true

So, can anyone with a REAL understanding of this clarify... Are Al anodes more or less noble than Zn anodes? Note - just because you have a certificate doesn't mean your understanding is not wrong!

I also wonder... theoretically... if you were proactive and wiped / scrubbed off the crud from zinc anodes often enough that they would be a good choice in fresh water and they'd last a lot longer?

Mercury Makes 2 Kinds of Anodes, Alumnium and Magnesium

Aluminum= Salt and Brackish
Magnesium= Fresh Water Only

Just trying to keep it simple. You will get all kinds of answers about Zinc anodes. Merc does not even make them as far as I know so I would assume there is a reason. Probably because the 2 choices are sufficient.

I think you would need to have pretty darn good Fresh Water to get away with using Aluminum anodes on a slipped boat. I don't know of anyone using them in Fresh Water although I am sure there are some who are. I don't think you would have any problem using Alumnium anodes for occasional Freshwater use.

 

[jason78]

Mercury Makes 2 Kinds of Anodes, Alumnium and Magnesium

Aluminum= Salt and Brackish
Magnesium= Fresh Water Only

Just trying to keep it simple. You will get all kinds of answers about Zinc anodes. Merc does not even make them as far as I know so I would assume there is a reason. Probably because the 2 choices are sufficient.

Here is an excerpt from the Mercury Corrosion Guide. It specifies the recommendations from Mercury as I stated above. I think you would need an analyst to come do all kinds of testing in your water to tell for sure if Zinc or Aluminum would be better for you in your specific case as I assuming you are in Salt of Brackish water. I don't think anyone here can tell you that. I hope this helps.

 

[tbirdvet]

Mercury Makes 2 Kinds of Anodes, Alumnium and Magnesium

Aluminum= Salt and Brackish
Magnesium= Fresh Water Only

Just trying to keep it simple. You will get all kinds of answers about Zinc anodes. Merc does not even make them as far as I know so I would assume there is a reason. Probably because the 2 choices are sufficient.

I think you would need to have pretty darn good Fresh Water to get away with using Aluminum anodes on a slipped boat. I don't know of anyone using them in Fresh Water although I am sure there are some who are. I don't think you would have any problem using Alumnium anodes for occasional Freshwater use.

I have used Al. anodes (factory released) for the last 3 years on my boats with B3 here in Michigan and they work perfectly. That being said I'm going to try Mg. next season and compare the impact. You can buy either(official Mercrusier part) from *******.com at great prices.

 

[Woody]

Good God! What a totally confusing mess of contradicting information this thread is. It's clear to me that Magnesium is the 'least noble' type of anode.

I've read several conflicting pieces of information about Aluminum vs Zinc here and elsewhere. If Al lasted longer than Zn, then why would it be recommended for use in brackish water?

If you say 'works better' that means NOTHING if you don't explain what you mean. :smt021 Do you mean 'lasts longer' or 'protects better' both are obviously conflicting.

Clearly, the correct anode type will be the one that:
a) is less noble than your equipment (outdrive)
b) dissolves fast enough so as not to become ineffective (covered in crud)
c) lasts the longest provided the a) and b) above are true

So, can anyone with a REAL understanding of this clarify... Are Al anodes more or less noble than Zn anodes? Note - just because you have a certificate doesn't mean your understanding is not wrong!

I also wonder... theoretically... if you were proactive and wiped / scrubbed off the crud from zinc anodes often enough that they would be a good choice in fresh water and they'd last a lot longer?

Ya gots questions cause you yourself don't know the answers but you try to make the point that no one else knows what they're talking about. How would you know? You attack with a violent emoticon and exclamation marks but yet you want help.
You were given a link to this place http://www.boatzincs.com go there and read everything they got on the subject, if you can understand it you'll have your answers.