Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

[mrsrobinson]

Finished cleaning and painting the after cooler covers

 

[HardRockin]

Boom!

View attachment 135324

I just bought the same cart full of oil yesterday at Tractor Supply. When I saw the picture I did a double take because I thought it was a picture of my cart ! I used to do the 1 gallon jugs but this will be a lot more fun! My generator, motors (Cat 3196’s) and transmissions are all on the Reverso system (2002 Sundancer 510).

 

[HardRockin]

Sorry to jump on this thread, but I had to come over here to get my oil discussion “fix” for the year.
Apparently my new comrades on the 510 thread don’t change their oil or have someone else do it for them (that was a joke btw). And I’m a recovering 3126 addict. Boy do I miss the fuel economy of those 3126’s, but not that starboard impeller!

 

[mrsrobinson]

The starboard impeller is not my best friend that's for sure

 

[TRG]

First year owning a 400 sedan with 3126 diesels and a Westerbeke 8.0 generator. Looking to see if there is a preventative maintenance plan for these boats and motors.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Should I add Diesel 911 and/or Diesel Kleen to the fuel tanks for 3 to 4 months of winterization/no use? If yes should I also start the engines to cycle it through?

 

[The Bill Collector]

Should I add Diesel 911 and/or Diesel Kleen to the fuel tanks for 3 to 4 months of winterization/no use? If yes should I also start the engines to cycle it through?

I try to add before filling so it mixes up well...

 

[mrsrobinson]

First year owning a 400 sedan with 3126 diesels and a Westerbeke 8.0 generator. Looking to see if there is a preventative maintenance plan for these boats and motors.

Short answer is yes there is, the manuals for both highlight this.

When I took ownership of mine, with approximately 1,000 hours on the engines, with not a lot of service records, I replaced all fuel filters, racor and engine mounted, did the valve lash adjustment, changed the belts, replaced raw water impellers, and I have now flushed all the coolers. The coolers were not part of my plan, but I was chasing down an overheating issue and did all of them. Next up for me is oil changes and injector height adjustment.

 

[mrsrobinson]

I try to add before filling so it mixes up well...

You add both? I put fuel in the boat last weekend, which will be the last time for the year, so I won't be able to do that. I guess I could pump a gallon or so into each tank while doing a final end of your pump out.

 

[carterchapman]

Finished cleaning and painting the after cooler covers

I said this to someone last year - you can get new CAT MARINE POWER decals for about $20 from your CAT Dealer...

 

[dtfeld]

Should I add Diesel 911 and/or Diesel Kleen to the fuel tanks for 3 to 4 months of winterization/no use? If yes should I also start the engines to cycle it through?

Follow Franks Diesel Fuel Management year round. I like Diesel Kleen Fuel and Tank Cleaner (green label) in the tank over the winter as it works to eliminate water/sludge. A little water is inevitable in the form of condensate.

 

[fwebster]

And, the open area you leave in the top of your fuel tanks just increases the amont of area filled with air from about 3' off the water so it is laden with moisture and is there as a ready source of moisture for condensate=. The money you think you save by not filling your tanks up may cost you dearly if you condense a bunch of moisture in the tanks which then feeds any miocrobial growth that you have in your tanks.

The other mistake you are making is failing to add your additives before topping off your tanks If you pour your additives into a mostly empty tank, it is just going to pretty much lay there on the bottom of the tank. The idea is to keep your tanks full and to add your additives every time you add fuel based on how much fuel you put in your tanks………. BEFORE you add the fuel. This way the aditives are mixed as you add fuel.

Suggest you re-read the tutorial on Diesel Fuel Management. That system works. I have a 500 gal above ground metal storage tank for equipment on my place in Tennessee and I put about 1800 hours on Cat engines in my 450DA over a 25 year period and I have never had a fuel problem or even clogged up a single filter……every ounce of fuel I burn has the same additives in it that I recommended in the tutorial…..so I know this system of additives and fuel treatment works.

 

[Steve S]

Thanks, I have followed the Diesel Fuel Management and add the recommended additives every time before I put fuel in the tanks. What I'm asking is for winter, with an extended layover, should I do anything extra.

I follow Frank’s advise. I simply make sure that the tanks are as full as possible before storage. There is some room because I top off but have a 10 mile ride to my home port. Never had any issues.

 

[mrsrobinson]

I reread Frank's fuel management technical thread. With the exception of diesel kleen I've been following this process. I purchased a lot of diesel kleen back in March when I bought the boat, for some reason, I can't recall, I haven't been regularly using it. I think I used it on the first fill up but not since, I will start using it regularly.

I can't recall who, but when I first bought the boat, someone here told me to buy Diesel 911 and keep it on the boat, so I did, though I have never used it. Is this something I should add for the winter, or is it only for emergencies?

 

[fwebster]

That was me when you were sure you had sludge in your fuel system.
here is what I told you:



"I’ve got problems with dirty fuel ---Now What Do I Do?



At some point, if you own a diesel boat long enough, you will experience an engine slowing down, dying or failing to turn up desired RPM due to a clogged primary filter. Always carry several extra fuel filters on your boat and know the proper way to change them. Do what is necessary to get back to your dock or a friendly place to tie up since it is a lot easier to deal with a dirty fuel system when you are secured to a dock than it is bouncing around in some slop somewhere.


First, try to clean up the system chemically. Do this by adding 10 oz. of Power Service Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide for each 200 gal of tank capacity.


http://www.powerservice.com/bk/


This is a “shock” quantity of biocide and it will kill everything growing in your tanks and will cause the microbial chains to release and break off the tank walls and bottom and become suspended in the fuel.


Now add one 80 oz. jug of Power Service Diesel 9-1-1 (red container)

http://powerservice.com/psp_product/diesel-911/

for each 200 gallons of tank capacity. Next, go run the boat in some seas that will agitate the fuel in the tanks. The Diesel 9-1-1 has the unique attribute of being able to break up the chains of microbial growth into particles small enough that they will mostly pass thru a 30 micron filter. The secondary filter will catch some and the remaining particles are so small that they will pass through the fuel system and burn in the cylinders and pass on out as exhaust.

Note: Diesel 9-1-1 is now labeled differently and the label on the container will only mention it as a cold weather additive, but it does a great job in conjunction with a biocide for cleaning up a dirty fuel system.

After approximately 5 hours of running time, the final clean up step is to change all the primary and secondary filters again.

If the above additives don’t clean up the system and you are still clogging filters, your only other alternative is to call a fuel cleaning service who will come to the boat and polish the fuel in the tanks for you."












Copyright 2008, 2009, 2017 Frank A. Webster

 

[mrsrobinson]

Okay, I think I remember now, this was advice given to me when I was bringing the boat home, an 8-hour cruise, post purchase, which I thought at the time was going to be the first cruise with the boat. Both fuel tanks were sitting on less than 1/8 then.


Thanks

 

[mrsrobinson]

Engines only...

I am not trying to beat a dead horse here..rather doing my "winterize the engine raw water system" due diligence. I never paid attention to "what pink stuff" with my previous gas engines, and never had a known issue. I am hearing diesels are different. I read a few articles on ethylene glycol vs. propylene glycol in diesel engines. Seems ethylene is preferred because it has less of an impact on some of the components:

https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/marine-antifreeze-problems-when-pink-antifreeze-freezes

https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/antifreeze-ethylene-glycol-vs-propylene-glycol

And I read articles about "be careful with diesel engines and glycol" in general.

Asking the diesel engine gurus, what the heck should I be using for the raw water side of my CATs, examples are appreciated.

This is what I am currently planning to use: https://www.westmarine.com/west-marine--50f-engine-water-system-antifreeze-gallon-499848.html?&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=PMax: GSC>Smart_Shopping>Boat Maintenance&gclid=CjwKCAjw79iaBhAJEiwAPYwoCM_1J7QxD5lD3a7Z5b7Gv6JOcCT7vVYv0H9y-EjzM8Tc_piY-kB6PBoCSTYQAvD_BwE

 

[Strecker25]

Engines only...

I am not trying to beat a dead horse here..rather doing my "winterize the engine raw water system" due diligence. I never paid attention to "what pink stuff" with my previous gas engines, and never had a known issue. I am hearing diesels are different. I read a few articles on ethylene glycol vs. propylene glycol in diesel engines. Seems ethylene is preferred because it has less of an impact on some of the components:

https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/marine-antifreeze-problems-when-pink-antifreeze-freezes

https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/antifreeze-ethylene-glycol-vs-propylene-glycol

And I read articles about "be careful with diesel engines and glycol" in general.

Asking the diesel engine gurus, what the heck should I be using for the raw water side of my CATs, examples are appreciated.

This is what I am currently planning to use: https://www.westmarine.com/west-marine--50f-engine-water-system-antifreeze-gallon-499848.html?&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=PMax: GSC>Smart_Shopping>Boat Maintenance&gclid=CjwKCAjw79iaBhAJEiwAPYwoCM_1J7QxD5lD3a7Z5b7Gv6JOcCT7vVYv0H9y-EjzM8Tc_piY-kB6PBoCSTYQAvD_BwE

we use the -60 version of that (mostly because I'm paranoid) and my boat has had propylene glycol used its entire 20+ year life with no known detriment so far. I don't really know what the alternative would be, I'm certainly not going to put automotive AF in and then have to start the engines, catch the AF, and dispose of it in the spring

I'd roll with the west marine stuff and not worry about it

 

[mrsrobinson]

here’s the setup. 10g bucket, valve, and hose. Takes 45 minutes max including cleanup. I join the two hoses with a barb but past the strainer because the strainer takes almost a gallon. I just vacuum the water out of the strainer instead

View attachment 135069

Do you know the ID of the raw water hose where the barb connects?

 

[mrsrobinson]

The old decals don't look too bad with the new paint

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8SnmKQWC8EdCGXDB7