Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

In light of this, I'm thinking your going to have to get this done locally. From your parts manual. Looks like 1.75" shaft 92 1/4" long with a double taper see #11 below. Original material was AQ19, but there are various grades of shaft material available as frank pointed out. AQ19 is roughly a 304 SS alloy, the AQ22 is more akin to 316. If you can recondition the props, tapering a shaft isn't a very difficult job for most machine shops, and this info should be about all the shop needs to get you a couple shafts made.

View attachment 147228
Hi Mark,
Looks like $1854.00 each
1 3/4 x 82-1/2 oal aq19 double taper. (From Tacoma propeller that balanced them 3 years ago)
 
I’m looking to install a Victron shunt on my house bank which also starts one of my engines. I’m assuming the 500amp would be too small and I would need the 1000amp.
Is the 1000 amp large enough for a bank that is starting my diesel engine?
 
I’m looking to install a Victron shunt on my house bank which also starts one of my engines. I’m assuming the 500amp would be too small and I would need the 1000amp.
Is the 1000 amp large enough for a bank that is starting my diesel engine?
500 should do just fine. Shouldn't be an issue to exceed shunt rating for that fraction of a second when engine cranking starts (that locked rotor surge). As a comparison my QSM11's cranking amps are 350. You will be better off with the smaller shunt as you will obtain better range resolution.
 
Are you saying that it should not permanently damage the shunt if I draw more than 500 amps momentarily?
There is nothing in the shunt to get damaged. It is just some copper bars that have a calibrated resistance so a differential voltage can be measured. The resistance is very small. If I remember the full range of any shunt is 50mv at the shunt rated current. So at 500 amps there will be a 50mv differential. Now if you pulled a continuous 500 amps through the shunt it will get hot but pulling let's say 600 amps for less than one second it won't even register a raise in temperature. Output differential voltage will register 60mv for that that fraction of a second.
 
I always felt the OEM shafts on 450DA shaft were a bit flimsy having seen them wobble and shake when the boat was out pof the water for maintenance. I also chased a slight vibration for the first 4-5 years we owned the boat and never totally ran down the causde until we replaced the shafts. The boat was 9 months old when we bought it; I found a service work order where the first owner ran her aground on a sandbar (a light grounding according to the prop shop) "Just part of my effort to get the previous owner off the boat!"
 
Here's a basic, maybe a dumb question.

I've had two inboard boats - 6 cylinder turbocharged diesels, and three generators.

I keep my fan belts fresh.

In all cases I always observe a bit of belt dust/residue on the engines.

The Yanmars were grey - but now with the white CATS this residue is more apparent.

I don't believe in overtightening belts, as this can lead to premature bearing failure.

I don't believe in leaving them loose either.

Belts show no signs of slippage.

Been wrenching all my life, never used a belt tension tool, tightened by deflection/gut, always leaving a NEW belt a bit tighter for break in/stretch.

The question is: Is the belt dust/residue NORMAL ?

BEST !

RWS
 
Your belts are mostt likely a bit loose and slipping a tad which causes belt dust to form and get spread round the engine room. I forund after owning 3116's for several years theat the belts need to be tightened a bit after several hours of running. Ater a belt change I usually ran the boat one afternoon then tightened the belts the next morning before taking ther boat out. After that, I checked the belts every month, and tightened them if the needed it.

Now you see why I made that little "shorty belt guard" I sent you the photos of?


Frank
 
I did the same when I hit a log with the 330DA many years ago. One bent shaft, 2 bent props, insurance paid.
 
I’m looking to install a Victron shunt on my house bank which also starts one of my engines. I’m assuming the 500amp would be too small and I would need the 1000amp.
Is the 1000 amp large enough for a bank that is starting my diesel engine?
I’m a little late but I used 500A smart shunts and all is well. I would recommend going with the IP65 version, as the wire leads are much more robust for a marine installation. The spring loaded cage clamps on the other version are good for about 3 installations, and you will need ferrules/tool to make the connections (if you don’t have one already).

However, once you have these installed, they are great for giving insight to just how much power our boats consume and how long you have from the batteries.

I ended up adding the Cerbo GX to get the info available on my Raymarine MFD's with the added benefit of monitoring my fridges and tanks. All of it now available remotely as well.

A very good upgrade at a very reasonable cost.
 
Hi Mark,
Looks like $1854.00 each
1 3/4 x 82-1/2 oal aq19 double taper. (From Tacoma propeller that balanced them 3 years ago)

Hey Mark. Hope the rebuild is progressing well. Curious if you verified the shaft length once out of the boat? Usually the parts manual is dead nuts but looks like a discrepancy on the length for your boat (or I misread).

I looked at my parts manual and for the 410 w/CATs it shows a 78" AQ22 for use with the Hurth 800 transmission. I'd like to believe that is correct...
 
Hey Mark. Hope the rebuild is progressing well. Curious if you verified the shaft length once out of the boat? Usually the parts manual is dead nuts but looks like a discrepancy on the length for your boat (or I misread).

I looked at my parts manual and for the 410 w/CATs it shows a 78" AQ22 for use with the Hurth 800 transmission. I'd like to believe that is correct...
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The shafts have not been pulled yet because the glass damage is being exposed and the insurance needs to sign off on that before we move on to the shafts and props. The shafts were out 3 years ago and balanced by Tacoma Propeller my receipts and their email quote match the 82 1/2 inch length.
 
Hi Mark
Did you contact your insurance company? I did something similar on the Southshore of Long Island. 2 new props and one shaft came to 11k. I had to pay the 1k deductible with Progressive.
I'm in the $75k range and insurance is definitely involved... Travelers.
 
A couple weeks and all will be just as it was maybe even better.
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We are getting a new floor in the cabin complements of insurance. They have to remove the floor and sub floor to get to the inside of the v-hull. Fiberglass is applied both inside and outside.
 
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We are getting a new floor in the cabin complements of insurance. They have to remove the floor and sub floor to get to the inside of the v-hull. Fiberglass is applied both inside and outside.

big job, will you have a chance to get in there as they work through it? Pictures of the sub structure would be kinda cool
 

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