Starlink

Yea me too been with DTV since day one. Love/Hate relationship. I am still learning this whole streaming thing, everytime I try it I get frustrated and look for my guide button on the DTV remote and my issue is solved. All this smart TV apps and crap are cool but seems to take forever to find what you are looking for. I am keeping the dome for now as I am still learning the whole streaming thing. I have a friend that went to DTV stream and loves it. I am just unsure but thinking to do the trial on my trip to the Exumas this year to see how I like it. Orlando whats the whole Youtube thing like? I am just looking for simple and one app
 
Yea me too been with DTV since day one. Love/Hate relationship. I am still learning this whole streaming thing, everytime I try it I get frustrated and look for my guide button on the DTV remote and my issue is solved. All this smart TV apps and crap are cool but seems to take forever to find what you are looking for. I am keeping the dome for now as I am still learning the whole streaming thing. I have a friend that went to DTV stream and loves it. I am just unsure but thinking to do the trial on my trip to the Exumas this year to see how I like it. Orlando whats the whole Youtube thing like? I am just looking for simple and one app

And that's why I went with DTV stream. Closest thing to cable with a guide and all.
 
... Orlando whats the whole Youtube thing like? I am just looking for simple and one app

Launch the app and you get the same thing as DTV gives for the most part. YouTubeTV doesn't have channels, it has networks on the left hand side instead of channel numbers, but other then that it's the same to use. I have it at home and on the boat, all through FreTv's. You get the non-premium channels for ~65/mth. That get's you 7 devices in total and one can be remote or used for the boat. It comes with free DVR so what ever you add to your library at home you can have on the boat. You can also get all of the premiums. The only two channels you can't yet are the History channel and The Science channel.

Some benefits are the free DVR and you can customize (reorder and omit channels) the guide. Try that with DTV.

At the end of the day it's as close as you can come to a cable/sat tv app as it gets.

https://tv.youtube.com/welcome/ - You can try for free.
 
Probably for another thread but have always envisioned something similar to a bathroom ceiling vent. Blank in the middle with vented louvers on 4 sides to allow air out the sides and not directly at you.
This is what I had in mind, but I will try to draw your idea as well.
upload_2023-1-13_23-41-3.png


or

upload_2023-1-14_0-27-11.png
 
Orlando,

How many amp up converter 12 to 48v converter do i need? I got a 3 amp version but on Facebook Starlink I see lots of people using a 10 amp? That seems excessive, what are you finding?
 
There should be a label somewhere on the receiver or the plug with the electrical specs
 
Orlando,

How many amp up converter 12 to 48v converter do i need? I got a 3 amp version but on Facebook Starlink I see lots of people using a 10 amp? That seems excessive, what are you finding?

The one I posted above is 4 amp, and that is about twice of what is needed. I like to use converters around 50% capacity. Make's them last longer. You shouldn't have an issue with the 3 amp one.
 
@ocgrant - Grant I simplified what needs to be done from that video since he included a way to remove the array with an extra coupler. I would just keep a service loop in the mount and add that connector at a later date when actually needed. That is only another failure point considering being in salt water.

I also listed the components he used to get this done, as he puts it. I like his term X-Swapped so take note on the cable ends that need to be replaced.

This is exactly what I am going to wire up when I get to this project in a few weeks.

12v to 48v DC to DC inverter: https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Synchronous-Voltage-Converter-Waterproof/dp/B00VE63K42/ref=sr_1_3?crid=ZVXOUTBU1T7N&keywords=SMAKN+Synchronous+Buck+Voltage+Converter+DC+12V+to+48V+4A+192W+Power+Supply+Module+Waterproof&qid=1673448775&sprefix=smakn+synchronous+buck+voltage+converter+dc+12v+to+48v+4a+192w+power+supply+module+waterproof,aps,447&sr=8-3

Although any POE injector can be used, here is the one used in his video: https://www.amazon.com/Tycon-Systems-POE-INJ-1000-WT-High-Injector/dp/B07BKV6NYD/ref=sr_1_3?crid=JLGH7PU2TW20&keywords=Tycon+Systems+POE-INJ-1000-WT&qid=1673449026&sprefix=tycon+systems+poe-inj-1000-wt,aps,167&sr=8-3

View attachment 138623
Any benefit to going with a 24v to 48v dc converter and wiring to a 24volt bank?
 
Only ease of use for you to install. This is less then 2 amps so no real current to watch. But a 24v to 48v adapter would work just fine. Keep in mind you should still get a 4 amp converter. Quick search only turns up 5A - https://www.amazon.com/24V-48V-5A-Converter-Waterproof/dp/B089M7FVLJ/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2QRCO7GPITXQI&keywords=24v+to+48v+converter+4+amp&qid=1674058040&sprefix=24v+to+48v+converter+4+amop,aps,300&sr=8-8
Thanks @SKybolt. One last question as I continue some research. Is there any benefit to just going with an inverter or is it apples to apples at that point?
 
Thanks @SKybolt. One last question as I continue some research. Is there any benefit to just going with an inverter or is it apples to apples at that point?

If you use an inverter, that implies you are keeping the SL wifi router? This mod is so that can be completely removed. When their router is removed, only POE can be used because you are left with only a network cable to work with.
 
If you use an inverter, that implies you are keeping the SL wifi router? This mod is so that can be completely removed. When their router is removed, only POE can be used because you are left with only a network cable to work with.
Yes, truth be told I'd rather keep the router as i think the Wi-Fi range is exceptional. However I'm curious from a power consumption standpoint which would be more efficient. Deleting the router and adding my own with the POE injector or just installing a inverter and plug in when I don't want to run the gen.
 
Yes, truth be told I'd rather keep the router as i think the Wi-Fi range is exceptional. However I'm curious from a power consumption standpoint which would be more efficient. Deleting the router and adding my own with the POE injector or just installing a inverter and plug in when I don't want to run the gen.

I would recommend getting rid of the SL router and going with your own. After installing this mod SL would just plug directly into the wan port and your good to go. Adding an inverter just for the SL router would be really inefficient and the POE mod would be your most efficient.

There are no real settings in the SL router so not sure why you would want to keep it, also for me the coverage was horrible. JMO.
 
I would recommend getting rid of the SL router and going with your own. After installing this mod SL would just plug directly into the wan port and your good to go. Adding an inverter just for the SL router would be really inefficient and the POE mod would be your most efficient.

There are no real settings in the SL router so not sure why you would want to keep it, also for me the coverage was horrible. JMO.
Interesting info on the efficiency, thanks. As for coverage I kept my router on the bridge. Had excellent coverage through out the boat all the way to the forward state room. Have also been at anchor and picked up other boats starlinks 3-4 moorings away.
 
@jmauld Frickin awesome… off to Home Depot to acquire some “L” stock aluminum and assemble this beautiful piece. I will take it to the boat tomorrow to see where it will go on the hardtop. I am guessing I should primer and paint to protect from UV? The detail is awesome. This 3d printing stuff is really cool.
41592BD9-BA60-4878-AF36-F38B49900881.jpeg
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Got aluminum and assembled the sides. Funny he didn’t flush in brackets on the ends, just the sides. I need to finish those tomorrow before I take it to the boat. Looking awesome.
4D8CFB8E-EA9A-4727-AC7B-E950A1080442.jpeg
 

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