40 sedan bridge forum

Thanks Mark. That's exactly how I figured out to do mine. Problem for me is that on the starboard side I have to first remove the coolant overflow tank. Where its mounted prevents the rotation of the belt guard.
 
If anyone happens to need the original switch panel or the original Raytheon speaker from the starboard side of the helm, I replaced the original with a bigger panel. The switch panel is in good shape as is the speaker. I also have that single plate for the auto pilot if anyone is keeping their boat original and needs a replacement
 
If anyone happens to need the original switch panel or the original Raytheon speaker from the starboard side of the helm, I replaced the original with a bigger panel. The switch panel is in good shape as is the speaker. I also have that single plate for the auto pilot if anyone is keeping their boat original and needs a replacement
We are going to need to see pictures of your new switch panel. Love to see what you changed it to.
 
Kind of a bad picture. I had two panels made to spruce up the bridge a bit. I moved the radar over to the existing C120 I had on the port side along with the auto pilot and the systems monitor. On the starboard I bought a new A120 and I preferred to have it up top almost even with the C120 height. I had them incorporate the switches into the larger panel and move them down. I got rid of that dopey single plate for the auto pilot and the speaker for the Raytheon VHF which was no longer in use.
 

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A couple weeks ago I bought a 97 sedan bridge. The boat has twin Cats and basically a flawless, well kept boat. Here is my story. Some friends and I made a three day boat trip to its new home at Barkley Lake (Kentucky). The trip went well with one problem. The marine radio quit transmitting and receiving. I am sure it is operator error since the former boat owner swears is worked fine prior to us shoving off on the trip. We relied on a hand held back up which worked fine communicating with the barge traffic and the six locks that we went through. Help me out here. The radio lights up and switches channels. The speaker squeals when the squelch is turned up. It is a Raymarine Ray218. What have I pushed, pulled, moved, or touched to make it not work? I have the manual and performed a reset. Still no fix

Keith
 
Is the antenna cable connected? I can not imagine it somehow disconnected but uou never know. Did the cable chaff on anything?


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Truk911, how you did remove the ceiling cockpit light?
Mine are very hard, I tried spray it with WD40, use a plier, use a rag, and they don't move a bit. I am thinking to replace it with a new lighting fixture.
How did you open it?



FeLiz Dream
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The 3 overhead lights open by turning the white covers. They were tight on my boat, but they came loose.

Good Luck,

Kurt
 
Here is a picture of my old cockpit ceiling light, as anyone replaced it with a new led light? What led and were to buy it?
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442534633.370347.jpg


FeLiz Dream
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Here is a picture of my old cockpit ceiling light, as anyone replaced it with a new led light? What led and were to buy it?


FeLiz Dream
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I had a hard time getting one of mine off. Took me a long, long time to get it to turn. There are three nubs on the ring that fit into curve slots on the base. Once I got it off, I found its a 10W G4 (two pins) bulb pushed into the side. That's in the 140 lumen range. So, go to superbrightleds.com or marinebeam.com or somewhere like that and just look for their round disk G4 replacements with side pins, that match the lumens as best as possible.
 
My starboard rudder has been leaking since I bought the boat. Constant tightening only has worked temporarily. So I added a new packing ring to it today. I had never done this so I was a little scared going in (mostly of water rushing in sinking the boat - ha!). It turned out to be a non-event. First I removed the generator battery and tray to get better access. Since I am in salt, I cleaned all the crud off the rudder shaft at the top of the nut so I could slide the nut upward. I just used a putty knife to chip it off and some sandpaper to smooth it off. After loosening the locking nut I then removed the packing nut and slid it up the post. Hardly any water came out - it was a very slow drip. I then stuffed the new packing ring (which I had pre-cut using the top of the rudder as a template) into the nut, pulled down the nut to start the threads and then locked it down. The packing is 1/4" and I found the diameter of the post is exactly 6 inches (so I cut the ring to exactly 6 inches - I used a 45 degree overlapping cut, not a butt cut). The whole thing took less than an hour. I'll see how this works. Based on the slow entry of water if I have to do it again and completely clean out the nut and add all new packing, it would be no problem.

Fortunately the port side does not leak. It would require a lot of removal to get access to it (all four batteries, battery charger, possibly the panel the battery charger mounts to).
 
.....Based on the slow entry of water if I have to do it again and completely clean out the nut and add all new packing, it would be no problem.

What you did will work fine - adding packing, removing all the repacking while in the water will likely not go nearly as well. The packing still in there was creating a seal. If it still leaks I would add one more ring, then totally repack both rudders at your next haul-out.
 
What you did will work fine - adding packing, removing all the repacking while in the water will likely not go nearly as well. The packing still in there was creating a seal. If it still leaks I would add one more ring, then totally repack both rudders at your next haul-out.
That confuses me a bit. Whatever was slowing down the leaking with the nut off, was packed between the sleeve and the post. But to repack, I would clean out only the nut and then push the 3-4 new rings into the nut. Then pull the nut down and tighten. Are you saying I would also need to try to poke out stuff in the small gap between the post and the sleeve? If so, why?
 
Good Evening,

We have the standard Berber carpeting in the cockpit which is in good condition. However, it is very susceptible to mold after it gets wet. Previously I removed the carpet, thoroughly cleaned it, let it dry, then applied 303 protectant. Worked for a few months, but back to getting mold again.

Does anyone have experience with this or a solution? Thanks in advance!
 
Another question tonight...

Has anyone upgraded or replaced the latch mechanism on the sliding door to the salon? I would love to have a new, more modern, handle and latch system found on contemporary boats. The current version is temperamental and difficult to operate.

Thanks!


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Good Evening,

We purchased a switch cover for the electrical panel to guard shore/generator power, but it doesn't fit the right side of the panel and allow the generator to be selected on. Does anyone have a close up of their switch covers to compare?

Thanks!
 

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