460 DA Owners Thread

Wolfe, thanks for the pics on the water pump/accumulator tank. With the bigger pump, how did you handle the wiring--I would think bigger wire would be required. Did you have to pull those to the switch panel? If so, did you get a higher capacity circuit breaker?
 
WOW. You are really creative. Thank you for sharing all that. I will do the pump and accumulator this weekend. If you are ever in Chicago again, I will buy you drinks at the Chicago Yacht Club. I read you went after the Chicago Boat Show some time back.
 
I will be pulling the boat out in Nov.
Just wanted to get some thoughts.
At idle I am getting a vibration off the port motor in neutral then when engage the transmission it get a little stronger until I take the rpm up to around 1000 rpm then it goes away.

I do have a small ding in that prop. What else do you think it could be and what should I look for?
 
Joint Custody said:
I will be pulling the boat out in Nov.
Just wanted to get some thoughts.
At idle I am getting a vibration off the port motor in neutral then when engage the transmission it get a little stronger until I take the rpm up to around 1000 rpm then it goes away.

I do have a small ding in that prop. What else do you think it could be and what should I look for?
Click to expand...

Engine alignment via the cutlass bearing is a good place to look. If the bearing is worn on one side or the other that can be an indicator. Of course as you state, the prop out of balance from the ding can do it as well.

I found that my strut was out of alignment (bent) while at idle speed in the engine room. You could visibly see the prop shaft "wobbling" as it turned. The dripless shaft log would move up and down...a clear indication of an alignment issue.

Just my 2 cents worth and a couple of quick ideas.
 
I am slowly figuring out the boat and spend the better part of Saturday going through and sorting the containers filled to the brim with stuff the PO left in the bilge - mostly all useful tools, potions and replacement parts. So I'll start with a couple of softball questions and start working my way up from here!

We took delivery of the boat an a fairly blustery day, and took a fair amount of spray as we bore off coming home. But gee golly, we have windshield washers for goodness sake, lets use them says I. Good call until coming to the realization that the solenoid valve wouldn't turn off the water flow - ah well, needed to purge that stinky water in the tank anyway. SO, just where can I find this valve? I note a post from 2010 suggesting it is under the floor in the solon in the 480 - any further info on where this is located before I just kill the switch?

Easier question so I can watch football next weekend - where can I find the gain control for the TV?

Thanks everyone - loving the boat so far!
 
archinbalt said:
I am slowly figuring out the boat and spend the better part of Saturday going through and sorting the containers filled to the brim with stuff the PO left in the bilge - mostly all useful tools, potions and replacement parts. So I'll start with a couple of softball questions and start working my way up from here!

We took delivery of the boat an a fairly blustery day, and took a fair amount of spray as we bore off coming home. But gee golly, we have windshield washers for goodness sake, lets use them says I. Good call until coming to the realization that the solenoid valve wouldn't turn off the water flow - ah well, needed to purge that stinky water in the tank anyway. SO, just where can I find this valve? I note a post from 2010 suggesting it is under the floor in the solon in the 480 - any further info on where this is located before I just kill the switch?

Easier question so I can watch football next weekend - where can I find the gain control for the TV?

Thanks everyone - loving the boat so far!
Click to expand...

As I recall, the water valve is under the main salon floor close to the middle hatch. The antenna gain control is in the port side cabinet above the steps going into the salon.
 
The valve is under the floor, to the starboard side by the grey water box, it’s hard to see, you will have to contort yourself to see it
 
TheWolfTC said:
Hi Jeff,
I didn't have to change any of that. The pump switch on the DC panel is rated at 15 amps and the new pump only draws 8 amps peak. The wiring was already suited to meet the demands.

The 2nd water pump switch would be dormant...normally at this point. But not for me...LOL I installed a solenoid valve and added some pex pipe to allow for the tank to be filled without having to get a hose and climb over the deck. It was relatively simple, just a pain to climb over the port holding tank to get the solenoid installed and the additional pex pipe to tie into the current water line from the tank.

When we need water in the tank and we are connected to shore water, I turn off pump switch 1 and turn on pump switch 2 which in turn opens the solenoid to allow water to flow into the freshwater tank. I wired the solenoid to water pump switch 2, again very easy to do since the wiring is already in place. Once the tank monitor hits full...shut it off and you are good to go. Even though I am connected to shore water when at the dock, we like to cycle the water through the tank regularly to keep it fresh. It just became the lazy mans way to fill the freshwater tank. :)

This option does come with some risks...do NOT turn the solenoid on and walk away from the boat! If the incoming water pressure is strong, the flow may be too much for the overflow vent to handle thus expanding the tank under the mid-berth floor. Why do I share this??? Because I did it twice this summer...I started filling the tank after returning from a trip...then got sidetracked with my dock neighbor and the next thing I know, I hear a loud bang...oh sh*&!!!!! Yep, the mid-berth floor and my new laminate flooring were bubbled up. It did go back down after running the water, but the damage was done and I knew I would be tearing up the floor to fix it once I pulled the boat. Dummy me, I did it again a few weeks later...After that the Admiral locked me down in the salon until the job was complete. :) It won't happen a 3rd time!
I just finished the repair job this weekend...wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I started Saturday morning and worked a few hours getting it all apart, then finished it yesterday afternoon. The water tank expanded enough to bust 2 of the 2x4's completely in half which raised the entire panel that covers the tank. This repair also gave me the opportunity to clean my water level sensor as well. I was getting false readings from it. The last pic is of it all back together except for the sofa, doing that today.View attachment 93145 View attachment 93146 View attachment 93147 View attachment 93148
Click to expand...
Wolf...
That is a great idea and I have been thinking about doing the exact same on my 48. I was thinking to use an automatic float valve set up like I use on my aquarium system to top off water. There are a couple of different versions but leaning towards the external based on my tank application. With your current set up have you considered a regulator or valve that would only allow a small "trickle" of water in the tank so when full it would not "overpressure" your tank and instead just flow out the overflow. I am not concerned about how fast it will fill it, rather just to keep it topped off. If I need to fill it quick I will go outside and use the factory filler. We are the same we use "city water" at our slip and transient slips when we are away so this would allow the tank to top off every time.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=74617

https://www.wish.com/c/599434607dfe...MIhs28tuie7AIViLLICh0EDg-_EAQYCCABEgJT8_D_BwE
 
401Kation said:
As I recall, the water valve is under the main salon floor close to the middle hatch. The antenna gain control is in the port side cabinet above the steps going into the salon.
Click to expand...
Funny how these boats are all slightly different - I have a splitter in the port cabinet you describe, but no gain control. Any other thoughts?

Another dive into the bilge this weekend in search of the windshield washer valve - whoopie! Find is one thing, replace is another...
 
ocgrant said:
Wolf...
That is a great idea and I have been thinking about doing the exact same on my 48. I was thinking to use an automatic float valve set up like I use on my aquarium system to top off water. There are a couple of different versions but leaning towards the external based on my tank application. With your current set up have you considered a regulator or valve that would only allow a small "trickle" of water in the tank so when full it would not "overpressure" your tank and instead just flow out the overflow. I am not concerned about how fast it will fill it, rather just to keep it topped off. If I need to fill it quick I will go outside and use the factory filler. We are the same we use "city water" at our slip and transient slips when we are away so this would allow the tank to top off every time.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=74617

https://www.wish.com/c/599434607dfee6386d2330a0?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=US&_force_currency_code=USD&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=599434607dfee6386d2330a0&ad_cc=US&ad_lang=EN&ad_curr=USD&ad_price=5.99&campaign_id=7203534630&guest=true&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhs28tuie7AIViLLICh0EDg-_EAQYCCABEgJT8_D_BwE
Click to expand...

Grant,
RE:With your current set up have you considered a regulator or valve that would only allow a small "trickle" of water in the tank so when full it would not "overpressure" your tank and instead just flow out the overflow.

Yes, at the water inlet hose I have added a ball valve so that I can dial the flow down to a trickle. That solved the problem...although I haven't walked away from it any longer when filling.:) LOL Admirals orders!!

I hate carrying big hoses, so I keep the smaller pocket hoses on board. I only hook them up to fill the tank when we transient that way we really get to cycle the water through the tank. With my wife and i using the shower daily and whatever else we need water wise, it will last us 3 days before needing to fill the tank again...so the soft retracting hoses work fine for us. At our home dock we ran PEX from the main dock hose bib down our docks to the stern of our boat, so we only have a short 8-10' hose at the transom to deal with. Again, just less stuff to deal with on the dock or when we depart. :)
 
2000 460, You have mechanical engines. There is no data. Blown284 has the later 480CE which has some data on the ECM.
 
fr8dog said:
2000 460, You have mechanical engines. There is no data. Blown284 has the later 480CE which has some data on the ECM.
Click to expand...

Thanks for correcting me!!!!! You're right, I have the 480CE's not the mechanical 6CTA models.
 
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