Official 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 290 Thread

GirlyGirl1999 said:
Mine leaks as well and the flow isn’t quite what I think it should be. HD/L and AZ sell o-ring packs. I’m going to try that first before spending the small fortune to replace it. Shooting for next week. I will report back.
Jon
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So this took a little longer, as usual, I’m getting old leave me alone.

1. PB Blaster soaked for 15min on the boat, shower head came right off the extender hose. (Didn’t take a picture sorry)
2. Home, pulled as many things apart as I dared unless I can’t find rubber parts. Everything is soaking in vinegar per Mitch’s suggestion. The fitting with the shut off appears to be press fit into the plastic wand.

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3. Here is our culprit. Note that it isn’t the same on both ends. The longer end points down in the direction of the shower head.
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4. The gasket between the shut off and the hose fitting might be interesting to find.
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We have a Huges plumbing supply 10min away, if they don’t have it it doesn’t exist. The crud at the top looks to be 16yo putty. Pretty sure I can get the O-Rings for the shut off. Project cost so far… 3 Sam Adams and .15 worth of vinegar.
Here’s some other pictures of what’s inside.
The plot thickens.
Jon
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So after a nights soak in straight vinegar We have this:

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All nice and clean, green crud gone.


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Next, went to Hughes Plumbing this AM, very nice young man at the parts counter took about 10 seconds looking at my rubber parts, came back with the blue ring in the picture said it was free but he didn’t have any individual o-rings for the shut off. I told him that was fine and asked if he had a kit. He did, $15 old guy/military price. Really!?! I felt I should have bought two for his time.

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I have been using this for years when I had my pool service company, around the house, cars, boat you get the idea.

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All lubed, assembled and ready for reinstall. Yes that’s my second Bloody Mary. Which is why install is tomorrow.
Someone needs to school me on uploading a video, every time I try I get the “the file your trying to upload is too large”
I have a YouTube account but can’t figure that out either.
Jon
 
So all done and installed, works great. Buddy came to the boat while I was installing and I told him the rebuild story. He says "you know you can get a new one at camper supply for about $12. I told him to STFU
Jon

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Hey group, new thread.
VacuFlush has stopped pumping (motor not running) I’m figuring it’s the vacuum switch. Before I remove the unit for a rebuild, I have all the soft parts just no motor or switch. Is there a fuse or breaker I should check first? Queen used it twice yesterday before telling me it didn’t seem to be working. o_O Figure I’ll just jumper with switch to see if the pump will run enough to suck the hose dry.
Thoughts?
Jon
 
Hey all, thought I would put this here as it can be a bit boat specific.
shower A/C sump float switch stuck in the on position, burned up the pump, bought a cheap (trust me I know I shouldn't have) Amazon replacement pump. It seemed fine when installed but 3 days later when i went to the boat I was ankle deep with condensate water in the cabin as the new pump popped the breaker. Tried to reset the breaker, pump ran for about 30 seconds and popped it again. water is all cleaned up. I have a Bissell little green machine so while I was de-watering I also soaped it up and cleaned the carpet. I digress. Does Rule make an all-in-one 750 GPM pump, switch, check valve unit that will fit in the sump? Otherwise I'm just going to go the whole sump replacement route. West MArine has them in stock but their a little pricey.
Thanks!
Jon
 
GirlyGirl1999 said:
Hey group, new thread.
VacuFlush has stopped pumping (motor not running) I’m figuring it’s the vacuum switch. Before I remove the unit for a rebuild, I have all the soft parts just no motor or switch. Is there a fuse or breaker I should check first? Queen used it twice yesterday before telling me it didn’t seem to be working. o_O Figure I’ll just jumper with switch to see if the pump will run enough to suck the hose dry.
Thoughts?
Jon
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Thought I would update this. It’s for sure the switch, was on the boat yesterday and lightly tapped the switch and system came back to life. Going to clean all the connections, too hot to be on the boat today.
Jon
 
What would you do? So super electrician was on the boat with me Friday to figure out the starboard engine no-start condition. Within 10 minutes he found the post on the solenoid on the starter was corroded to the point you could push the post into the solenoid. He cleaned everything as best he could and zip tied it so the engine can start.
So
1. Change the whole starter and save the old motor as a spare?
2. Just change the solenoid? They are cheap.
3. Are the starters on Amazon any good? There are a bunch for less than $100.
I have my young guy coming Saturday the 22nd, we’ll see how we do.
Jon
 
We picked up a 1999 290 DA with twin 350s triple axle trailer. Needs the usual seat recovering and both out drives need new bellows. Its a fresh water boat. I have some questions I can find in the forums.

1. Does the emergency bilge pump work if the battery disconnects are off?
2. The trailer trim switch only works for one outdrive. Any simple way to check this out? The buttons of the control work for both.
3. Anyone found an easy way to add blue tooth to their clarion factory stereo that they liked? It works well, sounds good and the remote works great.
 
johnsdeere said:
We picked up a 1999 290 DA with twin 350s triple axle trailer. Needs the usual seat recovering and both out drives need new bellows. Its a fresh water boat. I have some questions I can find in the forums.

1. Does the emergency bilge pump work if the battery disconnects are off?
2. The trailer trim switch only works for one outdrive. Any simple way to check this out? The buttons of the control work for both.
3. Anyone found an easy way to add blue tooth to their clarion factory stereo that they liked? It works well, sounds good and the remote works great.
Click to expand...
Hey John.

1. I'm sure the emergency bilge pumps only work when your battery power is hooked up.
2. Not sure on this one. Maybe the switch is corroded?
3. These work great for adding blue tooth to the older automotive stereos. I have not tried this on the boat yet, but it should work fine.
https://www.zoro.com/scosche-handsfree-car-kit-w-fm-transmitter-btfm4/i/G7372112/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=19633513665&productid=G7372112&v=&gclid=CjwKCAjw38SoBhB6EiwA8EQVLgz-toqP1blOVASMmRG2mhmnQYydLUKgTSV0YbNBa5luaj6V2-bxdhoCmzgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You don't have to order one of these on-line. They sell them at Meijer and Walmart.

Here's one that Home Depot carries:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Monster...WBxKjjL4uwvbT99ln5xoCpRUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
Boats hauled and ready for wrap, my port side aluminum prop has a nice chunk missing womp womp, it is what it is, I was going to consider going SS. The boat parts manual says they are 17.5" X 23" Aluminum props, do I need to change the pitch if I'm going SS? Or do I run identical DIA and pitch just in S.S. boat handled just great with these on them
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jonl21 said:
Boats hauled and ready for wrap, my port side aluminum prop has a nice chunk missing womp womp, it is what it is, I was going to consider going SS. The boat parts manual says they are 17.5" X 23" Aluminum props, do I need to change the pitch if I'm going SS? Or do I run identical DIA and pitch just in S.S. boat handled just great with these on them View attachment 153913
Click to expand...

You can use a prop calculator to see what might work, in general aluminum will flex more under load.

Another thing to remember is aluminum is a heck of alot cheaper than ss. I run 4 blade ss 17ps on my 290, but I have 5.7s mated to alpha 1 gen2s with a hub. So if I do hit something the hub give before the prop and drive train (fingers crossed)
 
IMO if you were happy with the performance of those aluminums I would stick with them. Like mentioned, way cheaper, and if you hit something like that with SS blades you’re likely replacing the drive or very least resealing the propshaft.
 
Anyone pulled a Kohler generator without removing port engine in a 98 290? Hopefully it’s possible
 
Millhouse said:
Anyone pulled a Kohler generator without removing port engine in a 98 290? Hopefully it’s possible
Click to expand...
I measured and it didn't look like it was possible. I had to pull the port engine anyway so I removed the generator after it was out. Not fun even then.
 
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