The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

[Lazy Daze]

Yeah, that black rubber "crumbling" thing is a common problem in the industry (not just Sea Ray). There are newer backings out there, now, but what you have there looks great and also updates the look.

Where 'bouts in Maine are you? Our vacation cottages are in Cushing and Friendship (coast).

 

[Fossils]

Yeah, that black rubber "crumbling" thing is a common problem in the industry (not just Sea Ray). There are newer backings out there, now, but what you have there looks great and also updates the look.

Where 'bouts in Maine are you? Our vacation cottages are in Cushing and Friendship (coast).

I'm in Central Maine (Oakland) which has many fantastic lakes to cruise - but I prefer to trailer down to Gardiner and run down the Kennebec River to the sea.

 

[Fossils]

The black hose is the output from the raw water pump up to the power steering cooler. The red one is wire-reinforced because it is under suction and I believe it is just a straight hose (not pre-formed). Most likely that bend occurred because whomever installed that crappy plastic flusher cut the hose, but didn't account for the added length of the flusher. That pushed the hose aft and caused that crinkle. Once you get the flusher out of there and check out the hose real well (make sure there is no soft spot), it might be just fine to reuse by joining the two cut ends with a bronze barb... and double clamped (with worm gears rotated 180* to each other).

You may just want to remove the raw water pump - remove it by unbolting the (3) bolts that hold the pump's bracket to the engine. If you don't know when the impeller was last changed, it's a good idea to do that, anwyays.

The orange wire is just a wire - nothing special - just make sure you match the gauge. If there's a Merc dealer nearby, there's a good chance they can do this for you at no charge.

Tip... I know this thread isn't short, but when you have some time, read through the entire thread. There is a lot of good info in this thread. A LOT.

Once again, thanks for the input. I've removed the starboard hoses (red & black) and eliminated the flusher. I now have better access to the starter. I've also seen recommendations to remove the manifold to make things even easier, and as I researched that option I discovered that this might be a good time to replace the manifolds? I have no way of knowing when or if they were ever done. Anyone have advice to offer? It looks like a simple process, but should I be concerned about removing the throttle linkage on the starboard side? Also, I found some damage to the black cooling hose, so I want to replace it. It is a Gates molded hose, but the numbers are worn off around the clamp so I can only see the last five digits of 63611. I've look for the item online but haven't had any luck - many places offer hoses for this engine but I don't see any that match the curves of the one I removed.

 

[Fossils]

The black hose is the output from the raw water pump up to the power steering cooler. The red one is wire-reinforced because it is under suction and I believe it is just a straight hose (not pre-formed). Most likely that bend occurred because whomever installed that crappy plastic flusher cut the hose, but didn't account for the added length of the flusher. That pushed the hose aft and caused that crinkle. Once you get the flusher out of there and check out the hose real well (make sure there is no soft spot), it might be just fine to reuse by joining the two cut ends with a bronze barb... and double clamped (with worm gears rotated 180* to each other).

You may just want to remove the raw water pump - remove it by unbolting the (3) bolts that hold the pump's bracket to the engine. If you don't know when the impeller was last changed, it's a good idea to do that, anwyays.

The orange wire is just a wire - nothing special - just make sure you match the gauge. If there's a Merc dealer nearby, there's a good chance they can do this for you at no charge.

Tip... I know this thread isn't short, but when you have some time, read through the entire thread. There is a lot of good info in this thread. A LOT.

FYI - the impeller was like new, so no plans to change it.

 

[Fossils]

The black hose is the output from the raw water pump up to the power steering cooler. The red one is wire-reinforced because it is under suction and I believe it is just a straight hose (not pre-formed). Most likely that bend occurred because whomever installed that crappy plastic flusher cut the hose, but didn't account for the added length of the flusher. That pushed the hose aft and caused that crinkle. Once you get the flusher out of there and check out the hose real well (make sure there is no soft spot), it might be just fine to reuse by joining the two cut ends with a bronze barb... and double clamped (with worm gears rotated 180* to each other).

You may just want to remove the raw water pump - remove it by unbolting the (3) bolts that hold the pump's bracket to the engine. If you don't know when the impeller was last changed, it's a good idea to do that, anwyays.

The orange wire is just a wire - nothing special - just make sure you match the gauge. If there's a Merc dealer nearby, there's a good chance they can do this for you at no charge.

Tip... I know this thread isn't short, but when you have some time, read through the entire thread. There is a lot of good info in this thread. A LOT.

My project is going well so far - I removed the starboard manifold and was able to swap out the starter fairly easily. I'm looking at new manifold options now. I want to go with a quality brand, which seems to be either Barr or Osco. I'm a bit confused as to the different choices of riser height and spacer size, as well as the dry joint option. Can anyone suggest the best manifold option for my 350 MAG MPI?

 

[Lazy Daze]

If the boat has been in fresh water all it's life, inspect and put them back on if they're OK. Otherwise, honestly, your best choice is going to be Merc manifolds. The other brands are sort of hit or miss. If you want "easy", just call a local Merc shop with your engine serial number and tell them what you want - they'll make sure they get you the right stuff.

This goes for the hose, as well... Merc is good stuff (although there are definitely times where buying aftermarket CAN be just as good). But "Gates" branded is fine, too. Look somewhere else on the hose for the numbers - or cross reference from the Merc part number.

 

[KevinC]

My project is going well so far - I removed the starboard manifold and was able to swap out the starter fairly easily. I'm looking at new manifold options now. I want to go with a quality brand, which seems to be either Barr or Osco. I'm a bit confused as to the different choices of riser height and spacer size, as well as the dry joint option. Can anyone suggest the best manifold option for my 350 MAG MPI?

It's been a little while since I researched and replace my manifolds, risers and elbows but if I remember correctly only Merc had the proper angle for the elbow return for my 2003 260DA when limiting the better manufactures. My suggestion is that if you plan on keeping the boat for a while and use in salt water go with the OEM Merc in this instance.

Hoses and belts can probably be replaced with high quality aftermarket - which in some cases may be an OEM supplier.

-Kevin

 

[Fossils]

Thanks to all of you for the good advice. I have been accumulating a collection of questions that may seem silly to experienced boaters, but I'll ask anyway...

1. I replaced my old props with new SS 4-blade ones. Should I keep the old ones onboard, with appropriate tools, in case of emergency?

2. I took a navigation class recently from a seasoned captain. When I told him I was hoping for a longer cruising range, he suggested I bring a couple five gallon gas cans. Really? Where would I stow them?

3. The paint in my anchor bay is peeling badly. Is that something I can repaint myself?

4. I'm in the process of doing some engine maintenance, and it's a good thing - the cap and rotor were in rough shape. The manifolds were good, so I'm reusing them. I bought new riser and spacer gaskets, using the official Mercruiser parts diagram for my engine. It shows a restricted gasket on the bottom of the spacer, and a full-flow gasket on the top of the spacer - but when I took things apart, I found restricted gaskets in both places. Will it matter if I use the supposedly correct new gaskets?

Thanks!

 

[Don Hardison]

I figured there are some significant differences in the designs of the '99-'04 and the '05 to '08 260's as well as the older ones. This thread is dedicated to the 260DA's between '99 and '04.

Post it if you got it.

So a question about positing? Do we post from here with new items, or start at the end of the 37 page thread? Also to just jump right in, is there a solution for the non skid on hatch door. Made a quick leap from bow to helm when anchor slipped and slid into the bottom of steps.....

 

[KevinC]

So a question about positing? Do we post from here with new items, or start at the end of the 37 page thread?

That works yours was post #729 at the end!

Also to just jump right in, is there a solution for the non skid on hatch door. Made a quick leap from bow to helm when anchor slipped and slid into the bottom of steps.....

Not sure what problem you are referring to but if waxed, they can and do get slippery. You might want to add some "grip tape" for stairs available from places like Home Depot. If you don't like that you can always remove the tape.

-Kevin

 

[Don Hardison]

was asking what the installed non skid was. Is it a paint or a sticky? This is on the hatch steps...

 

[Lazy Daze]

was asking what the installed non skid was. Is it a paint or a sticky? This is on the hatch steps...

It's molded into the gelcoat. Hindsight is 20/20, but anytime you're moving quickly on a boat... not good. But I know the exact non-skid you're referring to - it's not as "non-skid" as other parts. You can pretty much do whatever you want... stick-on strips... paint with non-skid additive... stop running ... it's your boat, do what works best.

 

[Don Hardison]

Yes I know..... Will probably add some white non skid on each step. Even not running its pretty slick

 

[Sugerjay]

Fossil, the Floor looks great, I’d like to do the same to my 99 260Da. Where did you buy it and how much did it cost? Did you install it yourself?

 

[Don Hardison]

OK, back on the water in the mid cabin floor. I realize finding the source of water is key, but have any of you
drilled a drain hole to prevent water back up and soaking the carpet, pooling around shower bilge box? Also wouldn't that drain straight to keel out to drain plug?

 

[Brady’s Bunch]

Hi Everyone,
New member here, '03 260 DA owner. I have a bent slide rail on the port side lounge seat. Previous owner must not have put the support leg down? Any advice on where to get the new slide or a better rebuilding solution? I've looked everywhere online with the original SR part # but no luck. Any advice would be much appreciated

 

[KevinC]

Hi Everyone,
New member here, '03 260 DA owner. I have a bent slide rail on the port side lounge seat. Previous owner must not have put the support leg down? Any advice on where to get the new slide or a better rebuilding solution? I've looked everywhere online with the original SR part # but no luck. Any advice would be much appreciated

Had a similar issue when I had my 2003 260. I thought it was just dirty when we got the boat but the PO bent it.

I removed it and spent some quality time finessing it on a bench until it slid smooth.

Outside of that call Sea Ray support with your HIN and they maybe able to tell you if it was a commercially available part if not an active part for Sea Ray.

-Kevin

 

[Brady’s Bunch]

Had a similar issue when I had my 2003 260. I thought it was just dirty when we got the boat but the PO bent it.

I removed it and spent some quality time finessing it on a bench until it slid smooth.

Outside of that call Sea Ray support with your HIN and they maybe able to tell you if it was a commercially available part if not an active part for Sea Ray.

-Kevin

Thanks Kevin, I'm taking a vice & clamps to the marina this weekend

 

[Brady’s Bunch]

So a question about positing? Do we post from here with new items, or start at the end of the 37 page thread? Also to just jump right in, is there a solution for the non skid on hatch door. Made a quick leap from bow to helm when anchor slipped and slid into the bottom of steps.....

Don Sea Dek or a similar material looks good & prevents slips on the hatch door. I had mine done 2-3 months ago including the cockpit. I can send the templates if you want..

 

[Brady’s Bunch]

Don Sea Dek or a similar material looks good & prevents slips on the hatch door. I had mine done 2-3 months ago including the cockpit. I can send the templates if you want..