Toilet Problem

D

doubletrouble

Member
Oct 31, 2006
42
DFW
Boat Info
2003 360 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 8.1 w/ v-drives
I think the kids flushed to much paper without water. If I lift the pedal up, water comes in, but when I go to flush there is a very faint pressure vacuum sound, but the water will not go down. I have emptied the tank and even tried to push a water hose down in the toilet and ran water (only filled the head tank and made even bigger mess) I believe I have a clog somewhere. I have searched in the engine room for the holding tank and found it. Can someone tell me where the thing is that contains the duck valves? Is there something else I can try before calling out the tech who charges a 75.00 travel fee plus 125.00 an hour (min 4 hour) plus parts.

2000 310 sundancer
Vaccu flush head (not sure of the model)
 
I had a bimbo do the same thing. I was able to find someone with a plunger and was able to break it free finaly... I just kept plunging... my only advice is to turn off the vacuflush while you plunge... when my clog finaly let loose I thought it was going to take the plunger too... hope this is helpful...
 
I tore my head system vacuum pump apart in the middle of a 9-day trip this past summer. Before you do, are you sure the vacuum pump is running properly? If it is plugged, likely what will happen is the pump will run and run until it overheats and trips the circuit protector / breaker. On my boat, the breaker is in the head beside the toilet on the cabinet wall. For mine, a tell-tale indicator was a different sound from the vacuum recharge. You could tell it was labouring. You could also have something stuck which is holding a duckbill open, preventing a vacuum charge from building up.

I don't know if yours is the same, but I have attached a picture below of the system on my boat with a few notes. The duckbills are part of the pump assembly. To get at them, make sure your head breaker is off, take the cover off (two screws on top) and then the rest will be fairly obvious. I ended up removing the four mounting bolts and taking the hose clamps off. There is an electrical plug for the pump that I also disconnected. There was a little "leakage" into the bilge...maybe two to three cups worth. Try to make sure the line from the head to the vacuum generator is as empty as possible.

The problem with mine was a wad of toilet paper, courtesy of either my 4 or 6 year old, that was compacted into the duckbill. I was surprised how much compaction the vacuum pump created. I pushed it out with a screwdriver, reassembled, fired it up, drank 3 beer in 20 minutes, and confirmed operation! Not counting the beer part, the whole procedure took about 30-40 minutes.

Be carefull to not damage the duckbills and put them back in the same way they came out. I think that is about it...


Head Vacuum System.jpg
 
mistercomputerman said:
Is it possible to plunge and have the duckbills turn inside out?
Click to expand...

From looking at them, and judging by the flexibility of the material, I guess it would be possible but pretty unlikely. They are fairly stiff...but worth confirming.
 
I have found you can be better off taking out what was put in the same way it went in. I know this may sound rather rude, but a very heavy duty shop vac with pull it back out, if you try this first. When it first happens, do not force the stuff any deeper. Vac it back out. If the clog is in the pump, then the system has to be taken apart. Sorry for the visuals I leave you with, but it works. Hope it helps if not this time but there will be a next.
 
Mine has clogged several times in the last few years. I plunged it and this worked a couple of times. The 2 times it didn't work the thing healed itself after a week or 2 sitting at the dock. I guess whatever clogged eventually sofened up and went through when I fired up the system.
 
Put either some manufactured head system product to break down the paper or a 10% or more solution of muratic acid to break it down. No need to call in professional help at this point. Let it simmer with either the manufactured product or muratic acid for a while and it should break down. Maybe a few weeks will do unless..............you have regular paper in your boat! If you do, shame on you!
 
I tried many times with plunger and no success. I only use marine paper, so that is not the issue. Question Are the duck bills inside the pump assembly? If I can get these out would it be wise to replace at the same time? Additional question I thought of. Sometimes the gauge inside reads empty and sometimes nothing. I did find the probe things at the top of the tank and started to pull out, but started to get pretty nasty, so I pushed back down. Is there a chemical that I can put directly in the tank to clean these things up?
 
I have had my share of toilet problems...... character-emoticon-0024.gif yuck.

Once you find the duckbills replace them, just saves you from having to do it later. Its not hard to do and when I replaced mine the first time it made a HUGE difference.

One thing, I was able to run lots of fresh water through my system before I disassembled it...... unfortunately you don't have that luxury. Rubber gloves, disinfectant and lots of paper towels..... vomit-smiley-015.gif
 
Pack66Dad said:
I have had my share of toilet problems...... View attachment 22071 yuck.

Once you find the duckbills replace them, just saves you from having to do it later. Its not hard to do and when I replaced mine the first time it made a HUGE difference.

One thing, I was able to run lots of fresh water through my system before I disassembled it...... unfortunately you don't have that luxury. Rubber gloves, disinfectant and lots of paper towels..... View attachment 22072
Click to expand...

I think if I go through this much I will replace the valves at the same time. Thanks for the advice.
 
HOLD THE PRESSES!


I just found this on the web site for NoFlex Digestor:
  • Product can also be used as a drain opener.
  • In sink or shower drain pour one cap into drain add one cup of cold water and let stand over night. Hair and waste matter will push up out of the drain this should be collected and discarded. Flush with warm water.
 
doubletrouble said:
Are the duck bills inside the pump assembly?
Click to expand...
Yes, but they are not hard to get at once you have the pump assembly off, which is the messiest part (removing the output hose). It sounds like you have already run quite a bit of fresh water through so this may not be a very nasty job at all!

doubletrouble said:
If I can get these out would it be wise to replace at the same time?
Click to expand...
Probably. They are not overly expensive and if they are old you will probably find that new ones allow the vacuum generator to recharge more quickly.

doubletrouble said:
Sometimes the gauge inside reads empty and sometimes nothing. I did find the probe things at the top of the tank and started to pull out, but started to get pretty nasty, so I pushed back down.
Click to expand...
If the gauge is the same as on my boat it will read empty when empty (obviously), then once it is not empty only the power light will be on until it is half full, at which point "1/2" illuminates, then once full the "FULL" indicator will also illuminate. Regarding the probes, if one is stuck you maybe able to free it by jiggling it up and down without fully removing it. You should feel the float bouncing around.
 
I am having the same problem after we anchor out last weekend.At least now I have a couple of things to check before breaking down the pump.i will do a follow up next week.
 
"Yeah, but do you do the #2 in your yachet?????"

Absolutely!! I do at home, so why not on the yachet?? I'd even do #3 if there was such a thing and if the toilet and associated equipment was designed to handle it.
 
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