Exactly what I was looking for, thank you!
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Exactly what I was looking for, thank you!
Thank you..... that front hose is really inaccessible and I was afraid of having it stuck in there. I have the same coupler under the galley cabinet that you described.the aft will definitely be easier. The first bit of hose in the forward head is not cable tied. Ours had a union joining it to the longer hose and it was accessible via an access panel in the large cabinet furthest forward in the galley. I used the old hose to pull in the new one for that section
Thank you..... that front hose is really inaccessible and I was afraid of having it stuck in there. I have the same coupler under the galley cabinet that you described.
It looks like I will be tackling this job this month.
Three Questions:
1) Do you remove the toilet to get to the hose at the bottom?
2) I followed the Port side hose in from the rear stringer up to where it goes under the stairs then found it again through the access to the drain under the sink. Does this run under the floor of the central vacuum and under the fridge, or snake around the steps and then under the fridge? Did you remove the fridge to run this section? I wasn't sure f the stairs also need to come out. Also were there a lot of cable ties in hidden places along this run?
Thank you
Scott
THANK YOU. You have provided the information and courage I needed to start this job. You mentioned the silicone, did you just dig it out with a razor or knife. Looks like a thin steak knife might open it up enough to free the hose. Was there something special used by Sea Ray or will GE clear silicone work to seal it all back up?You need to take both toilets out. I think the aft one you could technically get by leaving it in but it’s too much headache and tight spot. The front is a must because it’s an under floor drain. Make sure you get the foam gasket for that toilet. I rebuilt both my toilets in this process including all seals and I’d recommend you consider the same unless they’ve been done recently.
you need to put eyes on all parts of the hose except from the head compartments to the first union. Those short sections are not cable tied but the rest of it is and there’s no way you’ll pull it back without clipping those ties. Most are easy to get to, the one in the center of the port hose is accessible by pulling the lowest drawer out. And yes, the fridge has to come out as the hose goes under the fridge platform and into the mid cabin. You do not need to remove the steps or the vacuum
THANK YOU. You have provided the information and courage I needed to start this job. You mentioned the silicone, did you just dig it out with a razor or knife. Looks like a thin steak knife might open it up enough to free the hose. Was there something special used by Sea Ray or will GE clear silicone work to seal it all back up?
Scott
Thank you again.I used a combination of stiff screwdriver and razor blade to break it up enough to where twisting the hose would break it loose.
regular sealant or silicone would be fine but I think I’m going to use an expanding foam instead
Tunnel tabs finally installed. Pretty straightforward once you get over drilling into the back of your boat.
On the 400, the generator pickup hose runs across the stern in pretty close proximity to the rudder posts / gear. Of course its right smack where the tube comes through the transom. I knew this ahead of time and make sure not to drill through to the hose, but now I am curious if anyone has a picture of their install from the engine room above the starboard tunnel?
View attachment 139606
For anyone considering this job I measured 69 feet of sanitation hose to do everything including the pump out line and discharge hoses. I rounded up and will order a few extra feet just to be safe. I am going to use the Raritan Saniflex hose as it looks like a good product and will be the easiest to work with on tight bends especially in the winter in NJ. View attachment 139697 View attachment 139697Thank you again.
For anyone considering this job I measured 69 feet of sanitation hose to do everything including the pump out line and discharge hoses. I rounded up and will order a few extra feet just to be safe. I am going to use the Raritan Saniflex hose as it looks like a good product and will be the easiest to work with on tight bends especially in the winter in NJ. View attachment 139697 View attachment 139697
For anyone considering this job I measured 69 feet of sanitation hose to do everything including the pump out line and discharge hoses. I rounded up and will order a few extra feet just to be safe. I am going to use the Raritan Saniflex hose as it looks like a good product and will be the easiest to work with on tight bends especially in the winter in NJ. View attachment 139697 View attachment 139697
Can I ask what model and components you had ordered? The installation looks great!Tunnel tabs finally installed. Pretty straightforward once you get over drilling into the back of your boat.
On the 400, the generator pickup hose runs across the stern in pretty close proximity to the rudder posts / gear. Of course its right smack where the tube comes through the transom. I knew this ahead of time and make sure not to drill through to the hose, but now I am curious if anyone has a picture of their install from the engine room above the starboard tunnel?
View attachment 139606
I used a combination of stiff screwdriver and razor blade to break it up enough to where twisting the hose would break it loose.
regular sealant or silicone would be fine but I think I’m going to use an expanding foam instead
My engines are out to replace the flywheels that had bad isolators so I took the opportunity to paint the engine room and attend to anything that is getting old. That's when I got a whiff of the septic lines and saw they were cracked and dry rotted. Now is the time to do it..... I'm also replacing the original water heater, servicing the engines and generator and addressing anything the wears out on a 22 year old boat. A lot of work but it will be worth it.that sounds about right based on what I've been through so far. I didn't do the pumpout hose or macerator hose (ours is disconnected since we're freshwater)
no an inexpensive endeavor by any stretch but after seeing the inside of the hoses and how thin the original material was, I'm glad I did it
Can I ask what model and components you had ordered? The installation looks great!
Thank you for posting this infoI had saved this from earlier in this post, but it's exactly what I used. One item to note, is the hardware kit shows two T-fittings to splice into the existing lines. My order did not come with those, I had to order them on eBay separately.
View attachment 139722
Would you by any chance have a part number for the toilet gasket? I can see any numbers on the toilets and I don't want to go searching for a part once the system is opened up.You need to take both toilets out. I think the aft one you could technically get by leaving it in but it’s too much headache and tight spot. The front is a must because it’s an under floor drain. Make sure you get the foam gasket for that toilet. I rebuilt both my toilets in this process including all seals and I’d recommend you consider the same unless they’ve been done recently.
you need to put eyes on all parts of the hose except from the head compartments to the first union. Those short sections are not cable tied but the rest of it is and there’s no way you’ll pull it back without clipping those ties. Most are easy to get to, the one in the center of the port hose is accessible by pulling the lowest drawer out. And yes, the fridge has to come out as the hose goes under the fridge platform and into the mid cabin. You do not need to remove the steps or the vacuum
Would you by any chance have a part number for the toilet gasket? I can see any numbers on the toilets and I don't want to go searching for a part once the system is opened up.
Thanks
Scott
Thank you againyou mean the forward head floor seal?
here you go - 600341549
I ordered all of mine from marinesan.com