I'm more asking about draft in the harbor with props spinning. Agree with you 100% at anchor.
oh gotcha. Agreed with above, 4’ minimum as long as I know it’s not rocky. Those are uncomfortable passages though
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I'm more asking about draft in the harbor with props spinning. Agree with you 100% at anchor.
Beautiful. What did you do with the small odd shaped hatch in the forward state room?
Depends on your local conditions. When we were in the Tampa area, 4’ was what I needed and 6-7 ft was “deep”. Getting into Caladesi Island showed 4’ on the depth gauge crossing a bar and that was high tide. We still kicked up some sand. Here in the lake I like 5-6 to show on the depth gauge.What do you all consider a "safe" draft for your boats? I know the spec draft is 3' 6", but how close would you be comfortable cutting it for your channel and slip?
In good old Lake St. Clair which is 100% mud/clay/sand we regularly idle into spots with the sounder readin 2.5 ft. That is 2.5 ft below the transducer location in the hull. We occasionally kick up some mud but no issues.
Yes, I was asking about true depth.great point, I assumed we were all asking about true depth. I try to make sure I have 2’ below the transducer which is near the keel of the hull. Some folks prefer to use the offset to display true depth but I prefer depth under the boat
I run 22 knots in less than that almost every time out. I'm rarely accused of sanity.You guys are nuts! For me the pucker factor is off the charts with anything less than 6' under the boat.
I run 22 knots in less than that almost every time out. I'm rarely accused of sanity.
You guys are nuts! For me the pucker factor is off the charts with anything less than 6' under the boat.
Repaired the underwater exhaust tubes before launch this year. I have been trying to track down water in the bilge and finally discovered it was coming from the exhaust where it is attached to the hull. Before and after pics attached.
You are correct. These are the underwater exhaust pipes that go through the hull after the mufflers. Pictures are without the bronze elbows attached. It is possible that if the hull were cored it would have most likely soaked into the coring. My hull us 100% fiberglass on the hull bottom so no damage from the leaking.
I am trying to understand this. Are those exhaust pipes adhered to the fiberglass hull, and those cracks are the exhaust separating from the fiberglass? Are those fiberglass exhaust pipes? I guess with a solid fiberglass hull, this just means water getting into the bilge? But if your hull was cored, you would have a wet hull? Do I understand this correctly?
When they manufacture the boats and cut penetrations like for the exhaust or shaft logs, they layup the glass on the inside and outside. When that glass is done it looks rough, really rough. What they do then is fair in in with an epoxy to smooth out the surfaces. Those cracks are the faring that is separating. You'll see the same on the shaft logs. I first saw that on my shaft logs and freaked out thinking the logs are coming out of the boat - the girls that take care of the gelcoat and bottom paint got in there and chiseled it all out then re-faired the area - big chunks of epoxy fell out. It was SOP for them.You are correct. These are the underwater exhaust pipes that go through the hull after the mufflers. Pictures are without the bronze elbows attached. It is possible that if the hull were cored it would have most likely soaked into the coring. My hull us 100% fiberglass on the hull bottom so no damage from the leaking.
You guys are nuts! For me the pucker factor is off the charts with anything less than 6' under the boat.
haha I know. Even with my tiny 1/8” straight cut bit it was an insane mess
looking forward to seeing Johnny corners on those hatches, I really liked it on our old boat