Bravo 3 outdrive looking shady

[Knot therapy]

So year two of owning a 1995 250 DA 5.7 with a Bravo 3... and there’s the problem. At further inspections it’s come to my attention that someone painted the outdrive with copper paint and doesn’t have the correct amount of anodes. I assumed this was a pre 2003 bravo3 but after further inspection it looks to be newer.

I’ve done the taps with the hammer seems solid still. Since it was post 2003 I assume it was powder coated so that’s what’s peeling off the skig. Can I save it? Blast it, sand it, coat it. Make sure it has the proper anodes and double check my mercath or should I start saving up for that 8000 replacement and run her till she blows?

 

[Henry Boyd]

No it looks like it was coated with an anti-corrosion metal bottom paint like TriLux. It looks just like the b3 on our 280 looked after 12 years of my painting with trilux. If it was, that’s good news because it will protect the aluminum. The best way to apply it is with a throwaway brush so you can glop it on. Painting a used stern drive is always a task because of the risk of poor adhesion.

 

[Knot therapy]

No it looks like it was coated with an anti-corrosion metal bottom paint like TriLux. It looks just like the b3 on our 280 looked after 12 years of my painting with trilux. If it was, that’s good news because it will protect the aluminum. The best way to apply it is with a throwaway brush so you can glop it on. Painting a used stern drive is always a task because of the risk of poor adhesion.

I did purchase Trilux and that Primcoat that they recommend. So just clean it up good and paint it back up. I was just worried about the bright copper flecks in little pits, So my mind instantly went there.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I'm with Henry. Where is the problem? I don't see anything wrong. Also, why do you think it's post 2003? It certainly looks like pre-2003 to me. Why do you say that it doesn't have the proper amount of anodes? I think I see the (correctly) one anode under the anti-vent plate and no propshaft anode (again, that's correct).

Maybe you can explain what you're seeing that is a problem that we don't see? Also, clean it up and take a better look - it would help us for it to be clean, too.

 

[Knot therapy]

I'm with Henry. Where is the problem? I don't see anything wrong. Also, why do you think it's post 2003? It certainly looks like pre-2003 to me. Why do you say that it doesn't have the proper amount of anodes? I think I see the (correctly) one anode under the anti-vent plate and no propshaft anode (again, that's correct).

Maybe you can explain what you're seeing that is a problem that we don't see? Also, clean it up and take a better look - it would help us for it to be clean, too.

First off this is my first Bravo 3 and slipped boat. so I have no idea what it’s “supposed” to look like. Fresh water boat, I’ll work on cleaning it up.

I’m seeing pits with flecks of copper in them that lead me to believe that it has been coated with a copper based bottom paint in its life. The skig has that piece on it that looks like it’s about to peel off as well.

anode wise, I have no anode in the front of the cava plate and nothing on the prop shaft, which would make sense if it’s pre 03 but it appears to possibly be tapped and has two of the disc type anodes above the prop.

I’ll work on this and post back later

 

[Henry Boyd]

You can upgrade your zincs by installing a prop zinc. Boatzincs.com sells a kit that has a bronze prop nut the replaces the outer Merc nut. The replacement has “legs” that hold a threaded nut. This simulates the threaded prop shaft on the newer b3s and allows their prop anode to be screwed on. I had one on our 02 that was still going strong when we sold it.

 

[Lazy Daze]

First off this is my first Bravo 3 and slipped boat. so I have no idea what it’s “supposed” to look like. Fresh water boat, I’ll work on cleaning it up.

I’m seeing pits with flecks of copper in them that lead me to believe that it has been coated with a copper based bottom paint in its life. The skig has that piece on it that looks like it’s about to peel off as well.

anode wise, I have no anode in the front of the cava plate and nothing on the prop shaft, which would make sense if it’s pre 03 but it appears to possibly be tapped and has two of the disc type anodes above the prop.

I’ll work on this and post back later

OK, since you're new to this, let's figure it out rather than jump to conclusions that things are bad. From what I see in the pictures, I don't see any evidence of corrosion - in fact, everything looks really good - as far as the key areas I would be concerned about.

"Cava" plate? Do you mean the anti-ventilation plate? There is no "cavitation" plate. Just an FYI, there, so you know the correct terms.

If you're saying there is only (1) flat trim tab anode and there is an obvious spot for a second one (I could only see one in the picture), then yes, that is a mid-year 2003+ drive. And, if you're saying there is a physical, tapped hole in the propshaft, that further verifies it. From what I could see, it only looked like a "dimple".

But, get it cleaned up, first. As to the skeg area where the paint is flaking... it "appears" that it's still black underneath... Hence the initial thought of the AF paint simply flaking off.

If you do find that there really is copper there - it would be best, long term, to sand it all off.

 

[Lazy Daze]

What's the drive serial number?

 

[Henry Boyd]

I’ll echo Dennis’ opinion. The drive looks pretty good with no sign of corrosion. It is ugly, but that’s the trade for corrosion protection.

 

[b_arrington]

Drive itself looks good, very healthy. As mentioned the paint is a bit chunky but that happens with most antifouling paints. If you want to smooth it out you could use a wire wheel to remove some of it. Just be sure you use a stainless or bronze wheel; and plain steel wheel may leave behind particles that will rust.

A wire wheel wheel also does a nice job of cleaning the crud off of the props before hitting it with some antifouling spray.

 

[Knot therapy]

OK, since you're new to this, let's figure it out rather than jump to conclusions that things are bad. From what I see in the pictures, I don't see any evidence of corrosion - in fact, everything looks really good - as far as the key areas I would be concerned about.

"Cava" plate? Do you mean the anti-ventilation plate? There is no "cavitation" plate. Just an FYI, there, so you know the correct terms.

If you're saying there is only (1) flat trim tab anode and there is an obvious spot for a second one (I could only see one in the picture), then yes, that is a mid-year 2003+ drive. And, if you're saying there is a physical, tapped hole in the propshaft, that further verifies it. From what I could see, it only looked like a "dimple".

But, get it cleaned up, first. As to the skeg area where the paint is flaking... it "appears" that it's still black underneath... Hence the initial thought of the AF paint simply flaking off.

If you do find that there really is copper there - it would be best, long term, to sand it all off.

I’ll need to clean more to dig up the serial # it’s buried pretty good. Here is a few more pics. I peeled a flake of that spot off, it’s metal. Maybe a repair? There is a pic of the dual anodes or at least what I think is dual. I looked at the prop shaft more and dug around I think it is just the dimple. I ordered the prop nut kit from boat zincs.

 

[Lazy Daze]

OK, still nothing I'm worried about at all. Am I correct in that I see... the main portion of the skeg (the leading edge to about the middle) is the original paint? This is the area that I was originally referring to. It looks to be the original paint, with sanding marks. If that is correct, we're good. I was only "slightly" worried if that was completely exposed aluminum (couldn't tell in the original pics).

You're good. It's your call on how much you want to sand it - based largely on how/where the boat will be used. But given that old AF is flaking off so easily, I'd vote for more sanding (or chemical paint stripper for most of it). Painting on top of flaking is never good.

 

[Knot therapy]

OK, still nothing I'm worried about at all. Am I correct in that I see... the main portion of the skeg (the leading edge to about the middle) is the original paint? This is the area that I was originally referring to. It looks to be the original paint, with sanding marks. If that is correct, we're good. I was only "slightly" worried if that was completely exposed aluminum (couldn't tell in the original pics).

You're good. It's your call on how much you want to sand it - based largely on how/where the boat will be used. But given that old AF is flaking off so easily, I'd vote for more sanding (or chemical paint stripper for most of it). Painting on top of flaking is never good.

 

[Knot therapy]

There is a fair amount of original paint, looks like someone may have sanded it before, some smooth bare aluminum when you flake the paint away and also hints of primer.

Any idea what’s going on there Above the prop in the anti ventilation plate? It almost looks like some sort of add on

 

[Knot therapy]

Drive itself looks good, very healthy. As mentioned the paint is a bit chunky but that happens with most antifouling paints. If you want to smooth it out you could use a wire wheel to remove some of it. Just be sure you use a stainless or bronze wheel; and plain steel wheel may leave behind particles that will rust.

A wire wheel wheel also does a nice job of cleaning the crud off of the props before hitting it with some antifouling spray.

I picked up some of those newer nylon bristled wheels, figure that would be the best?

 

[Thornton69]

Being relatively new to the boat, what other maintenance are you doing?
Checking engine alignment, possibly gimbal bearing and bellows?
Cleaning and paint will be much easier in the nooks and crannies while disassembled.

 

[Knot therapy]

Being relatively new to the boat, what other maintenance are you doing?
Checking engine alignment, possibly gimbal bearing and bellows?
Cleaning and paint will be much easier in the nooks and crannies while disassembled.

New to this boat but this boat is not new to the marina I’m in, had the full maintenance history pulled from 2011 on. PO was pretty good about preventative maintenance. Been keeping with his schedule, alignment was last off season. Bellows were inspected and looked good, gimbal Checked our. I just did the bottom paint last week which was the reason I was kicking around looking at the outdrive. Next off season is motor work. I do have a leak I want to chase down so maybe this is the chance.

 

[b_arrington]

I picked up some of those newer nylon bristled wheels, figure that would be the best?

Yep those can work. You don’t want to get down to bare metal if possible. Then you’ll have to do a bunch of prep that’s rather a pain.