Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Same here with CAT handling the overheads - no worries at all, but swinging a hammer may be a different story.

Maybe there's a hex plug on the side somewhere?

BEST !

RWS
 
Going to clean the air filters on both motors with the walker cleaner and oil kit. I noticed there are a few different colored oils? I think I used the red oil last time, is there a difference? Recommendations?
 
Steve S said:
The nomenclature for a Sedan Bridge is DB. I have a 400DB
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*
Well, there you go... he has a '98 450 DB with 3126's and the clearance in the engine is so tight I couldn't even open the electrical box at the head of the engine the whole way open
 
Strecker25 said:
yes on the egt, goes right in that hole where the plug is

I used the middle plug for boost but either is fine. You can see the black line in the photo below (my gauge is a mechanical). Idk if I’d use heat, there is a rubber oring in there since it’s a straight thread. Use a chisel or wedge and a swift wack of a hammer to start the turn if it gives you fits

you can also see the pyro in this photo
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Got one hex plug out late yesterday.

It's about 19mm by my caliper.

I could attempt to drill and tap it to fit the electrical boost sensor, but if I mess that up the boat will be inoperative till I find a replacement, so this morning I'm off to find a couple of brass plugs that I can drill and tap.

The probe for the exhaust temperature probe is WAY TOO BIG to go into the top fitting at the elbow/riser exiting the turbo.

There's a bigger plug a few inches downstream that could work, however my concern with that location is it would likely be after the raw cooling water is introduced into the exhaust.

Comments appreciated on these 2 issues for the EGT and BOOST sensors.

BEST !

RWS
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Got one hex plug out late yesterday.

It's about 19mm by my caliper.

I could attempt to drill and tap it to fit the electrical boost sensor, but if I mess that up the boat will be inoperative till I find a replacement, so this morning I'm off to find a couple of brass plugs that I can drill and tap.

The probe for the exhaust temperature probe is WAY TOO BIG to go into the top fitting at the elbow/riser exiting the turbo.

There's a bigger plug a few inches downstream that could work, however my concern with that location is it would likely be after the raw cooling water is introduced into the exhaust.

Comments appreciated on these 2 issues for the EGT and BOOST sensors.

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...

I would go get the cat part that’s already tapped for this purpose. Maybe you’ll have more luck but no one had them available around here

We only had the one spot where the plug is in the exhaust stream (zoom in on my previous pic). The big plug on top of the riser opens up to the raw water jacket
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Got one hex plug out late yesterday.

It's about 19mm by my caliper.

I could attempt to drill and tap it to fit the electrical boost sensor, but if I mess that up the boat will be inoperative till I find a replacement, so this morning I'm off to find a couple of brass plugs that I can drill and tap.

The probe for the exhaust temperature probe is WAY TOO BIG to go into the top fitting at the elbow/riser exiting the turbo.

There's a bigger plug a few inches downstream that could work, however my concern with that location is it would likely be after the raw cooling water is introduced into the exhaust.

Comments appreciated on these 2 issues for the EGT and BOOST sensors.

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...
If I remember correctly those plugs are a pipe taper thread. So most likely it is NPT but could be BSPT but I doubt it.
The boost sensor is NPT also right?
NPT to NPT - https://www.mcmaster.com/products/b...fittings-for-drinking-water/?s=brass+bushings
BSPT to NPT - https://www.mcmaster.com/products/b...d-bronze-threaded-pipe-fittings/type~adapter/
 
The plugs are installed so tight, that the hex strips. I found the easiest way to remove was to use a good quality punch at about a 45*-60* angle on the outside edge of the plug. A couple good whacks with a hammer loosened it up.

The boost plugs are a strait pipe thread, I want to say 3/4-16. There should be an o-ring on the plug. I think this is what you need. If your pressure sender is 1/8" NPT, you'll need an additional reducer. I used a 90* 1/4" NPT (M) to 1/8" NPT (F) to lay the sender parallel to the engine and reduce the height.

upload_2023-6-16_9-14-46.png
 

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The Bill Collector said:
*
Well, there you go... he has a '98 450 DB with 3126's and the clearance in the engine is so tight I couldn't even open the electrical box at the head of the engine the whole way open
Click to expand...
Pretty sure they never made a 450 DB. A 550 DB, yes, but those you would have much more room. Are you sure it's not a 450 EB (Express Bridge)?
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Got one hex plug out late yesterday.

It's about 19mm by my caliper.

I could attempt to drill and tap it to fit the electrical boost sensor, but if I mess that up the boat will be inoperative till I find a replacement, so this morning I'm off to find a couple of brass plugs that I can drill and tap.

The probe for the exhaust temperature probe is WAY TOO BIG to go into the top fitting at the elbow/riser exiting the turbo.

There's a bigger plug a few inches downstream that could work, however my concern with that location is it would likely be after the raw cooling water is introduced into the exhaust.

Comments appreciated on these 2 issues for the EGT and BOOST sensors.

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...

What EGT sensor are you using? That location is the correct location for EGT measurement on this engine. If you put it back after the showerhead, they will not last very long. If you have the strait version, I think you will need a 90* EGT sensor top fit there.

I want to say the hole is tapped at 1/4" NPT.

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/egt-and-boost-via-nmea2000.106798/page-4#post-1385776
 
Straight…. Just saying.
 
The Bill Collector said:
That's entirely possible... I'll ask him the next time I see him.
Click to expand...
I believe one way that you can easily tell is the EB has virtually no side access but steps from the bridge to the bow. A DB does not have that feature.
 
dtfeld said:
The plugs are installed so tight, that the hex strips. I found the easiest way to remove was to use a good quality punch at about a 45*-60* angle on the outside edge of the plug. A couple good whacks with a hammer loosened it up.

The boost plugs are a strait pipe thread, I want to say 3/4-16. There should be an o-ring on the plug. I think this is what you need. If your pressure sender is 1/8" NPT, you'll need an additional reducer. I used a 90* 1/4" NPT (M) to 1/8" NPT (F) to lay the sender parallel to the engine and reduce the height.

View attachment 146124
Click to expand...
I’m confused. If it’s pipe thread why would there be an o ring?
 
Yup, is a strait thread. But its not self sealing like a NPT, hence the oring.
 
dtfeld said:
Yup, is a strait thread. But its not self sealing like a NPT, hence the oring.
Click to expand...
Straight. STRAIGHT! It is spelled straight!

Not strait. Strait is a passage of water. Example: Straits of Gibraltar!
 
Thanks for the response, I picked up the walker kit at west marine. Should clean two filters about the same cost as the kn kit. My confusion began when I saw blue oil and red oil. Want sure what difference was found the old kit that i used last time, it was the red oil…
 
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