Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

I recently lost 300 rpms, couldn't reach 2800 wide open throttle. Pulled the boat, had the bottom cleaned/painted since it was overdue anyway. Also replaced all of the racor fuel filters, which were half black. Took the boat for a trip yesterday and she hit 2,850. My best guess it was the fuel filters and not the bottom. FYI for those who might have or will have similar issue.

Started a shock treatment on the fuel tanks yesterday as well.
 
mrsrobinson said:
I recently lost 300 rpms, couldn't reach 2800 wide open throttle. Pulled the boat, had the bottom cleaned/painted since it was overdue anyway. Also replaced all of the racor fuel filters, which were half black. Took the boat for a trip yesterday and she hit 2,850. My best guess it was the fuel filters and not the bottom. FYI for those who might have or will have similar issue.

Started a shock treatment on the fuel tanks yesterday as well.
Click to expand...

I installed these a few years ago on top of the racors.
upload_2023-6-17_9-58-8.png
 
Sgrochow said:
I installed these a few years ago on top of the racors.View attachment 146188
Click to expand...
Yep, I bought one of those as well from a recommendation here. Haven't installed yet.

I've always kept the amount of fuel in each tank equal. When I filled up at the dock the starboard tank took 92 gallons, port engine took 76. Ar least Five of those gallons from the starboard are from the generator. So starboard engine was definitely pulling more fuel. Curious to see what those numbers look like the next time I fill up after the shock treatment and changing out the filters again.
 
mrsrobinson said:
Yep, I bought one of those as well from a recommendation here. Haven't installed yet.

I've always kept the amount of fuel in each tank equal. When I filled up at the dock the starboard tank took 92 gallons, port engine took 76. Ar least Five of those gallons from the starboard are from the generator. So starboard engine was definitely pulling more fuel. Curious to see what those numbers look like the next time I fill up after the shock treatment and changing out the filters again.
Click to expand...

Sometimes that delta is from the prop too, if they don’t even out you could consider getting the props scanned and balanced. If one side is working harder to keep the same rpm it’ll burn more fuel
 
Strecker25 said:
Sometimes that delta is from the prop too, if they don’t even out you could consider getting the props scanned and balanced. If one side is working harder to keep the same rpm it’ll burn more fuel
Click to expand...
Agreed, the props were done this time last year so I was hoping they weren't due again.
 
I FINALLY have a good, reputable diesel mechanic who will hopefully show up and do some service next week. I have been ghosted 2 times in VA and 2 times in MD. He is coming to do the injector height adjustments as I do not want to have to purchase all of the specialty tools for this service. My GFs brother-in-law is a former CAT mechanic, and will do the service, he doesn't have the tools though. I priced buying them and it just doesn't make sense to me.

I am thinking "while he is there have him do this, and this and this..."

Engines have 1060 hours. In the past 12 months/60 hours I have
  1. replaced belts
  2. Cleaned and oiled the air filters
  3. changed racors 2X
  4. changed oil/oil filters 1x
  5. value lash adjustment (GFs brother in-law did this with me watching)
  6. replaced all raw water zincs
  7. flushed heat exchangers, aftercoolers and trans coolers
  8. replaced some of the raw water hoses as I did #6 above
  9. replaced one fuel primer pump that was leaking
  10. replaced raw water impellers
I want to get the antifreeze changed (I just don't feel like messing with it) and the injector height adjustment done by him.

What else should I have done at the 1000 hour point, not knowing if the 250 or 500 was ever done? I purchased the newer, high temp thermostats last year, not sure I want the existing 180 ones replaced though after reading posts here on this.


Thanks
 
Check your zincs again, in salt water they don't last very long, especially the aftercooler. You'll probably find its easier to replace them every 3-6 months regardless of hours as the little pencil anodes will get jammed up /break off resulting in a much harder job fishing them out.

I have 2 sets of SS heads, and throw the olsd ones in cup of Barnacle Buster to remove the remnants, and rebuild a set during some downtime at the house. 15 minute job at the boat this way.
 
dtfeld said:
Check your zincs again, in salt water they don't last very long, especially the aftercooler. You'll probably find its easier to replace them every 3-6 months regardless of hours as the little pencil anodes will get jammed up /break off resulting in a much harder job fishing them out.

I have 2 sets of SS heads, and throw the olsd ones in cup of Barnacle Buster to remove the remnants, and rebuild a set during some downtime at the house. 15 minute job at the boat this way.
Click to expand...
I'm in freshwater, but that's good advice.
 
replace the other primer pump now.

keep the used one onboard with your spares.

they fail with no notice.

I don't believe it's wear, but rather its age.

ask me how I know.

BEST !

RWS
 
When you discuss the work you want done with your Cat mechanic, describe resetting the injectors as "Resetting the engine overheads". On the 3100 series engines, to access the injectors requires removing the valve covers which is also necessary to get to the valve adjustment hardware and using t he timing pins to get the crankshaft to TDC severql times, so resetting the intake and exhaust valves (required at 250 hours and every 1000 hours) is kind of a free-bee when you reset the engine overheads.

The thermostat specs were changed from 180˚ to 195-6˚ by Cat to try to get the 3100 series to run cleaner. I made the change at the 1500 hour service and never saw any difference in how the engines ran.
 
@fwebster I was wondering about this (will the values get done again). This is exactly what my GFs brother-in-law did when he did the valve adjustments. I will say "Resetting the engine overheads" as you suggest to the mechanic.

I think I hear you saying "go ahead and replace the thermostats" as well. Or are you saying "it didn't make a difference on your engines so it's not necessary to do"?
 
My thoughts on the thermostats -
Keep the lower temperature thermostats as that maintains the headroom or bandwidth on knowing if one of the Hx are plugging up or the pump impellers are failing and that temperature limit the engine can take.
For example you will have more time with additional headroom between 180 and 210 degrees on a pump that is losing blades than between 196 and 210 degrees. Like Frank says there is little to be gained in reduction of sooting or engine performance going to the higher temp thermostats.
 
ttmott said:
My thoughts on the thermostats -
Keep the lower temperature thermostats as that maintains the headroom or bandwidth on knowing if one of the Hx are plugging up or the pump impellers are failing and that temperature limit the engine can take.
For example you will have more time with additional headroom between 180 and 210 degrees on a pump that is losing blades than between 196 and 210 degrees. Like Frank says there is little to be gained in reduction of sooting or engine performance going to the higher temp thermostats.
Click to expand...
Thanks, this was my thought as well.
 
while doing the "restoration" of base line items last year, I installed the 195 degree thermostats.

Didn't notice a difference, as we've been playing with the props for a few months during all of this work. Once she comes up to temp, she's steady as a rock.

At this point in time, nearly zero soot on her sides, I mean she's really clean - a big improvement from day one.

Likely a combination of props, HEX and aftercooler removal and cleaning, elbow removal and acid dip - (you should have seen what came out of there!!!) CAT running the timing, injectors & valves and everything else I've been chipping away at for the last 18 months !

FWIW....

BEST !

RWS
 
Hello all,

Just curious if any has/has installed the Walker AirSep Silencer kit on 3116s and if the reduction of the turbo whine is worth the cost.

Thx
 
One of the conditions when I adjusted the price on my 10 meter with Yanmar diesels, was to remove the FLOSCAN system and re-install the VDO tachometers. The FLOSCAN digital tachs have been doing just great in my 450DA with 3126 engines, and I'm just now getting around to installing the 4 fuel flow sensors. and related wiring.

While I'm "at it" going to add a couple of TEES and a ball valve between the RACOR and the CAT engine fuel filters.

This way I can plumb in an electric "on demand" pump for the sole purpose of priming any and all fuel filters without the mess, or risk of getting any debris into an injector.

Open the ball valve, flip a switch and prime the entire fuel system.

I had a similar arrangement in my Trojan International series 10 Meter, however it was a single unit, mounted close to the tank and I used a simple in/line filter with a nozzel and valve. In this case a small, 12 volt electric fuel pump was more than adequate to do the job.

Electric fuel pumps have more ability to push fuel than to pull fuel to the pump.

For the Sea Ray, setup the pump will have to pull fuel from the tanks, deal with the air in the Raycors, and then push the fuel through the CAT fuel filter.

I'm thinking a small oil transfer pump would be better suited to thius task, and would be completely out of the system when the ball valve is closed.

I'm thinking, something like this:
Amazon.com: SEAFLO 12v Self Priming Impeller Gear Pump for Diesel Lubricants Machinery Fuel Scavenge Oil Transfer : Automotive

Or perhaps this:
Amazon.com: Mxmoonant 12V Oil Transfer Pump, 3.2GPM Self Priming Oil Change Extractor Pump, Fuel Transfer Pump with Hoses for Diesel Kerosene Marine Boat Truck : Automotive

My long term goal with this boat is to make her as easy to operate/single handle and maintain as possible, as I get older.

The ability to change out the fuel filters dry, minus the aggravation and mess of pouring diesel fuel into those way up high mounted Racors is highly desirable, and easily accomplished while splicing in the fuel sensors.

The goal here is to change all the fuel filters DRY, then flip the switch to prime everything.


BEST !

RWS
 
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