410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

My engine hatch lift motor is showing signs of failure (sounds to be struggling even with new batteries), does anyone have a resource for these? I have over-stressed it with my custom table being on deck and the factory table being stowed under the hatch. I keep the factory table there in case I want to use the sun pad. I think it is time to take that table home.
 
Hi Ken
The biggest issue with these is the cylinder seals become "sticky" and the rod really doesn't pass freely through them. They are very easy to take apart and retrofit those two o-ring seals. Along with the seals causing issues the grooves where the seals reside in the cylinder become corroded and tend to press the seals harder into the rod. So, to take it apart first run it all the way out then support the hatch then fully retract it and remove the cylinder assembly. Remove the drive motor assembly from the base of the unit and pull from the cylinder by unscrewing the drive from the rod. Then press the rod out through the cylinder (if yours has an extension first remove that and polish any burrs that are around that bolt hole). Remove the two O-Rings and source some new ones for replacement. Clean out the two O-Ring grooves. This might be the time to drill and thread a hole between the two seals and install a grease zerk so the O-Rings can stay lubricated and keep water out of the area.
The second issue is that drive requires quite a bit of electrical current. All of that current is managed through the Carling switch on the helm; a lot of small gauge wire. Consequently, the drive assembly is seeing quite a voltage drop and not getting the full power it needs when it's working hard. I installed a relay box in the engine room with opposing relays (so the positive and negative polarity can be switched to drive in or out the actuator) which feed 10 gauge wire directly from a 30 amp circuit breaker installed in the main breaker panel and the helm switch simply actuates the relays. This is a picture of the relay box I installed. I think my hatch will lift a person standing on it now..... If you need more on this let me know.
Tom
EngHatchRelays compressed.JPG
 
ttmott said:
Hi Ken
The biggest issue with these is the cylinder seals become "sticky" and the rod really doesn't pass freely through them. They are very easy to take apart and retrofit those two o-ring seals. Along with the seals causing issues the grooves where the seals reside in the cylinder become corroded and tend to press the seals harder into the rod. So, to take it apart first run it all the way out then support the hatch then fully retract it and remove the cylinder assembly. Remove the drive motor assembly from the base of the unit and pull from the cylinder by unscrewing the drive from the rod. Then press the rod out through the cylinder (if yours has an extension first remove that and polish any burrs that are around that bolt hole). Remove the two O-Rings and source some new ones for replacement. Clean out the two O-Ring grooves. This might be the time to drill and thread a hole between the two seals and install a grease zerk so the O-Rings can stay lubricated and keep water out of the area.
The second issue is that drive requires quite a bit of electrical current. All of that current is managed through the Carling switch on the helm; a lot of small gauge wire. Consequently, the drive assembly is seeing quite a voltage drop and not getting the full power it needs when it's working hard. I installed a relay box in the engine room with opposing relays (so the positive and negative polarity can be switched to drive in or out the actuator) which feed 10 gauge wire directly from a 30 amp circuit breaker installed in the main breaker panel and the helm switch simply actuates the relays. This is a picture of the relay box I installed. I think my hatch will lift a person standing on it now..... If you need more on this let me know.
Tom
View attachment 50382
Click to expand...
Thanks Tom, you really are a rocket scientist! It makes sense that these motors are probably running on 11 volts with the voltage drop all of the way from the dash with crappy light gauge conductors.
 
The following I used from an earlier thread when I replaced my actuator:

Engine hatch lift actuator

2001 410 DA Gas
12" throw
20" hole to hole closed
32" hole to hole extended
currently installed Warner DM12-20B5-12CE 2100

I called Warner 1-800-825-6544 and they had a cross reference on the new replacement parts. Bolted right up!
 
Hello Everyone. It seems like I remember someone here had put a Garmin 741xs in place of the NAV 398 GPS and posted a picture. I've searched this thread but can't find it. BOE is making it real tempting with their sale and I want to make sure it will fit before I purchase one. If someone remembers this and can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. TIA
 
Quick question. Hate to bring up winterization... BUT.. I was wondering how the others on here disconnect their batteries and get the hatch down.

I used to plug into my 12V at the helm, but my PO put in a 12V USB charger there which prevents that. I could try to remove it and tap into it. Just did not know if that would work even if I tried it.

I was thinking about just running a cable to the +/- cables disconnected from the battery and hooking up a jump pack to it to energize the relay.

Thoughts? Will it work..

Thanks!!
 
Shore power and the converter works too.
Ezsteps said:
Hello Everyone. It seems like I remember someone here had put a Garmin 741xs in place of the NAV 398 GPS and posted a picture. I've searched this thread but can't find it. BOE is making it real tempting with their sale and I want to make sure it will fit before I purchase one. If someone remembers this and can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. TIA
Click to expand...

I asked about that and "Riptide" answered it in post #1197 of this thread - he put two in.
 
Ezsteps said:
Hello Everyone. It seems like I remember someone here had put a Garmin 741xs in place of the NAV 398 GPS and posted a picture. I've searched this thread but can't find it. BOE is making it real tempting with their sale and I want to make sure it will fit before I purchase one. If someone remembers this and can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. TIA
Click to expand...
Ezsteps said:
Hello Everyone. It seems like I remember someone here had put a Garmin 741xs in place of the NAV 398 GPS and posted a picture. I've searched this thread but can't find it. BOE is making it real tempting with their sale and I want to make sure it will fit before I purchase one. If someone remembers this and can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. TIA
Click to expand...
Did you ever see the pictures? I have the same boat and would be interested too. Thanks
 
Thanks roller, I'm going to be measuring the width this weekend to make sure it fits between my vhf and auto-pilot. Jzizler the picture is in post #1198.
 
RollerCoastr said:
Shore power and the converter works too.


I asked about that and "Riptide" answered it in post #1197 of this thread - he put two in.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That didn't work on my 330 when the batteries were disconnected. Had to leave them connected and use the converter to charge them.

The 12v plug energized the whole boat and would lift the hatch. My homemade cable was fused which was good as I learned that if the batteries were dead and connected you had to leave the battery switch open or you would be connecting to a short and the fuse would blow.
 
In my '96 330DA, the batteries that powered the lift were the ones under the seat. I've since learned from threads on here that there were about as many battery configs on the 330DA's as there were 330DA's!
 
RollerCoastr said:
In my '96 330DA, the batteries that powered the lift were the ones under the seat. I've since learned from threads on here that there were about as many battery configs on the 330DA's as there were 330DA's!
Click to expand...

That makes a lot of sense. On mine the port batteries in the ER powered the lift and everything else on the boat. I would have liked to have the ones under the aft seat power mine that would have made things so much easier. LOL
 
Has anyone replaced their original TV in the master berth with a flat panel? Looking to see what kind of mount is best to use, and if a 24" will fit in the space, or do I need to go with a 19" or 20".
The articulating mounts are most common and reasonably priced, but I don't want the TV swinging around if I hit some nasty weather. I'd want one that locks pretty well to prevent the swinging from happening.
Whatever mount Imusemin the master berth I'll probably use the same one in the aft berth when it comes time to replace that TV.
I already have a flat panel TV in the salon. It's on an articulating mounting bracket, but the forward raised lip (black vinyl covered) over the fridge keeps the TV in place.
 
Master TV 2017-09-12 at 1.51.02 PM.png
JVM225 said:
Has anyone replaced their original TV in the master berth with a flat panel? Looking to see what kind of mount is best to use, and if a 24" will fit in the space, or do I need to go with a 19" or 20".
The articulating mounts are most common and reasonably priced, but I don't want the TV swinging around if I hit some nasty weather. I'd want one that locks pretty well to prevent the swinging from happening.
Whatever mount Imusemin the master berth I'll probably use the same one in the aft berth when it comes time to replace that TV.
I already have a flat panel TV in the salon. It's on an articulating mounting bracket, but the forward raised lip (black vinyl covered) over the fridge keeps the TV in place.
Click to expand...

Hi John. I installed a 32" in mine on a fixed mount if I remember. It might have had a slight tilt to it, but the way I installed it that was eliminated. I cut a 2" x 4" the exact height of the opening and then recessed it as much as needed so the tv was flush. I secured it with several "L" brackets. That was 4 years ago, and many bumpy trips and it's never moved. Bracket was similar to this...
https://www.amazon.com/Swift-Mount-...&sr=8-44&keywords=tv+wall+mount+brackets+only

-Tom
 
JVM225 said:
Has anyone replaced their original TV in the master berth with a flat panel? Looking to see what kind of mount is best to use, and if a 24" will fit in the space, or do I need to go with a 19" or 20".
The articulating mounts are most common and reasonably priced, but I don't want the TV swinging around if I hit some nasty weather. I'd want one that locks pretty well to prevent the swinging from happening.
Whatever mount Imusemin the master berth I'll probably use the same one in the aft berth when it comes time to replace that TV.
I already have a flat panel TV in the salon. It's on an articulating mounting bracket, but the forward raised lip (black vinyl covered) over the fridge keeps the TV in place.
Click to expand...
I upgraded to a 28" about a year ago when my 26" crapped out. I think it is a perfect size. I wish I could fit that size in the main cabin but until I move it to the wall next to the head door, a 26" will have to work.
 
JVM225 said:
Has anyone replaced their original TV in the master berth with a flat panel? Looking to see what kind of mount is best to use, and if a 24" will fit in the space, or do I need to go with a 19" or 20".
The articulating mounts are most common and reasonably priced, but I don't want the TV swinging around if I hit some nasty weather. I'd want one that locks pretty well to prevent the swinging from happening.
Whatever mount Imusemin the master berth I'll probably use the same one in the aft berth when it comes time to replace that TV.
I already have a flat panel TV in the salon. It's on an articulating mounting bracket, but the forward raised lip (black vinyl covered) over the fridge keeps the TV in place.
Click to expand...

JVM - the late Dominic (OSD9) here in CSR, posted a thread on how he did it to my (his) 410 when he owned it. You might search for OSD9 threads and try to find it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,218
Messages
1,428,814
Members
61,115
Latest member
Gardnersf
Back
Top