Official 370 Sundancer thread

I found my leak!

Its coming from either the hot water tank itself or one of the connections on the tank. I can hear the water leaking out when I put the pump on. I can't see it but I can hear it!

OK I'm happy. It will still probably be a big job might even need to replace the tank but at least I know where it's coming from and I can attack it.
 
NateVancouver said:
I found my leak!

Its coming from either the hot water tank itself or one of the connections on the tank. I can hear the water leaking out when I put the pump on. I can't see it but I can hear it!

OK I'm happy. It will still probably be a big job might even need to replace the tank but at least I know where it's coming from and I can attack it.
Click to expand...
Nice!
 
NateVancouver said:
I found my leak!

Its coming from either the hot water tank itself or one of the connections on the tank. I can hear the water leaking out when I put the pump on. I can't see it but I can hear it!

OK I'm happy. It will still probably be a big job might even need to replace the tank but at least I know where it's coming from and I can attack it.
Click to expand...
To winterize my 380, the marina would disconnect the cold water feed and the hot outlet. After 20 years of this, the outlet feed whale fitting and pex tubing seemed to wear. Couldn’t make a good seal and was loose and leaking. Replaced both, leak gone. Hope it’s something simple!
 
We're thinking of changing our canvas to black, currently have a dark navy blue canvas with a camper back that likely has a good 5-10 years of life left depending on care, getting a few zippers fixed and one repair on a frame rail. Isenglass all in great shape no yellowing. The camper back is screened in with covers no glass. Would anyone be interested in this? whats a fair price to ask for it?
 
268DancerNY said:
We're thinking of changing our canvas to black, currently have a dark navy blue canvas with a camper back that likely has a good 5-10 years of life left depending on care, getting a few zippers fixed and one repair on a frame rail. Isenglass all in great shape no yellowing. The camper back is screened in with covers no glass. Would anyone be interested in this? whats a fair price to ask for it?
Click to expand...

I might be. Send photos. Also what year is it from?

All I would want is the rear camper section.
 
I'm thinking about adding a heater core with a y-valve that will either switch the coolant from the hot water tank to a heater core that will heat up the cabin with engine coolant.. Anyone have any thoughts on that? I don't imagine it being very hard to do. It's either that or I install a small diesel heater.
 
Got bored this weekend and decided to tackle a couple of things.
1. Permanently mount the A/C control for my Marinaire in the vee-berth. Been hanging out of the old SMX hole for years. Moved it to the Port side, and mounted under the switches. Yeah, I'll match up the covers. Hint. The cutout is exactly a credit card. perfect template.
2. Hinge the hatch under the vee berth so you don't have to hold it up with one hand while trying to do something in there with the other. Sea Ray should have done this at the factory.
3. Replace the 1/2 burned out incandescent rope lighting under the shelves on either side of the berth with LED, and and while we're at it, let's light up under the berth as well.
4. While I'm in there, run ethernet from the port TV cavity to the salon TV cavity, where my boat router is. Also run HDMI for the ship's computer display to come up in the salon.
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Hi all,
I'm installing a TV on the port side arch, above the wet bar and I'm looking for some tips on running/routing the wiring (power, antenna, and audio) from anyone who's already done it before.

Any advice before I start would be appreciated.
 
Most of the arch wiring goes over the Starboard side, down into the side coaming lockers, and then forward to the helm, or past that into the gooped up access hole behind the subwoofer at the helm, down behind the mid cabin locker, and then forward to the salon TV cabinet. If you breach that sealant, be prepared to re-seal after you are done, otherwise you will wind up with some engine room vapors being sucked into the A/C, and then into your cabin.
For the TV on the port arch, there is power on that side feeding the ice maker under the helm passenger seat, and the cockpit outlet on the aft side of the sink. If it were me, I'd run the A/C power down the port side, and make your way to the outlet behind the ice maker. You'll probably have to remove the sink and cabinet assembly to get back in there.
For the TV, if you are going to be strictly on antenna, I would cut and split the antenna wire before it ever leaves the arch. That will put you on the non amplified side, but if that's a problem, just get a stand alone amplifier, and run that power down to the port outlet as well. A better overall idea if you are setting up for it is to use Internet based reception. That will require a smart TV, or an external streamer like a Roku or Fire Stick or........
Audio will be a lot more fun. If you are looking to tie the TV audio into your existing stereo to play in the cockpit you have 2 basic choices:
1. hard wire. That's going to take you to the salon TV cabinet, and that is zero fun. It also requires breaching the gooped up access.
2. Bluetooth transmitter at the TV, and Bluetooth receiver at the sound system. Save some knuckles.
 
370Dancer said:
Most of the arch wiring goes over the Starboard side, down into the side coaming lockers, and then forward to the helm, or past that into the gooped up access hole behind the subwoofer at the helm, down behind the mid cabin locker, and then forward to the salon TV cabinet. If you breach that sealant, be prepared to re-seal after you are done, otherwise you will wind up with some engine room vapors being sucked into the A/C, and then into your cabin.
For the TV on the port arch, there is power on that side feeding the ice maker under the helm passenger seat, and the cockpit outlet on the aft side of the sink. If it were me, I'd run the A/C power down the port side, and make your way to the outlet behind the ice maker. You'll probably have to remove the sink and cabinet assembly to get back in there.
For the TV, if you are going to be strictly on antenna, I would cut and split the antenna wire before it ever leaves the arch. That will put you on the non amplified side, but if that's a problem, just get a stand alone amplifier, and run that power down to the port outlet as well. A better overall idea if you are setting up for it is to use Internet based reception. That will require a smart TV, or an external streamer like a Roku or Fire Stick or........
Audio will be a lot more fun. If you are looking to tie the TV audio into your existing stereo to play in the cockpit you have 2 basic choices:
1. hard wire. That's going to take you to the salon TV cabinet, and that is zero fun. It also requires breaching the gooped up access.
2. Bluetooth transmitter at the TV, and Bluetooth receiver at the sound system. Save some knuckles.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that!
It definitely helps me make a few more decisions, especially the idea of splitting the antenna and just running a second booster!
 
370Dancer said:
Got bored this weekend and decided to tackle a couple of things.
1. Permanently mount the A/C control for my Marinaire in the vee-berth. Been hanging out of the old SMX hole for years. Moved it to the Port side, and mounted under the switches. Yeah, I'll match up the covers. Hint. The cutout is exactly a credit card. perfect template.
2. Hinge the hatch under the vee berth so you don't have to hold it up with one hand while trying to do something in there with the other. Sea Ray should have done this at the factory.
3. Replace the 1/2 burned out incandescent rope lighting under the shelves on either side of the berth with LED, and and while we're at it, let's light up under the berth as well.
4. While I'm in there, run ethernet from the port TV cavity to the salon TV cavity, where my boat router is. Also run HDMI for the ship's computer display to come up in the salon.View attachment 96500 View attachment 96501 View attachment 96502 View attachment 96503 View attachment 96504 View attachment 96505 View attachment 96506
Click to expand...

Got Bored ?????? What do you do when you are not bored, Holy cow.
 
OK, back with another head scratcher. The 7.0 Westerbleak(sic) fires, runs, backfires a couple of times while warming up, and then settles down. Then I apply a load. Runs fine. Fire up the mains, go for a leisurely cruise, and after, oh let's say 20 minutes, dies. Wait 10 minutes, it fires right up, and holds the load just fine. 20 minutes later, it dies. anchor up for lunch, kill the mains, wait for a few (blower running all the while), restart the gen. Runs fine for the hour we are at anchor, and the hour plus ride home. No indication of anything wrong. Get bored at the home dock and shut it down. I get the feeling it would run for the rest of the month if I let it.
Looking for similar experience that would lead to a pattern, and possible solution.
 
370Dancer said:
OK, back with another head scratcher. The 7.0 Westerbleak(sic) fires, runs, backfires a couple of times while warming up, and then settles down. Then I apply a load. Runs fine. Fire up the mains, go for a leisurely cruise, and after, oh let's say 20 minutes, dies. Wait 10 minutes, it fires right up, and holds the load just fine. 20 minutes later, it dies. anchor up for lunch, kill the mains, wait for a few (blower running all the while), restart the gen. Runs fine for the hour we are at anchor, and the hour plus ride home. No indication of anything wrong. Get bored at the home dock and shut it down. I get the feeling it would run for the rest of the month if I let it.
Looking for similar experience that would lead to a pattern, and possible solution.
Click to expand...
It sounds odd thats for sure. Especially since it runs fine and sounds like it will continue to run fine.
My first thought would be checking the impeller, strainer and radiator cap to make sure it's not overheating....
 
Anyone here interested in a set of props 3 blade bronze Hy Torq LH/RH 18 x 19 with a .073 cup 1.5 in bore. Ran great on my 370 but switched to 4 blade, just had them R & R so they are perfect prop scans included. thinking 1500 + shipping.
 
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I've also now got a generator issue and would love some more opinions...

When starting, it will fire up, and once I release the "preheat" it will run for a few moments, the drop in rpm to almost stall before recovering.
I also have to spread out the load applied or the same thing happens.
While using it the other day, I decided to hold "preheat" while adding load and just like that, no issues at all.

Since it starts and stays running, I think I can rule out the safety switches that preheat bypasses, but it leads me to think fuel supply issue.

Once you release preheat, does the fuel pump continue to work or is it just a lift pump that help get fuel through the lines at start-up?
 
NateVancouver said:
Hey can you give me some more information on how you did this and what parts you used? Was it a sharkbite adapter?
Click to expand...

yes, sharkbite valves from Lowe’s. Just look for ones that have a bleeder port on them so you can shut off and bleed out the line on the downstream side.
 
Does anyone happen to know what size fittings are on our holding tank filter? I’m guessing the 5/8” one in the middle but hoping someone knows so I can order without a trip to the cold boat. Always makes me sad to see it in this weather. Lol
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