410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

On a separate note, if those are the original CO2 alarms, you need to purchase new ones. The new ones have a longer life (approx 10 years), but they don’t last forever.
 
Can someone explain how the batteries are set up in a 2001 410 Sundancer. New to me boat, I shut off the battery switches in the salon when I winterized. The Starboard battery set are dead, Port seem fine. When I reconnect I get a good spark on Starboard, nothing on Port. Is there something that is wired "on" even when the mains are turned "Off" (like CO2). I bought very expensive AGM replacements and want to make sure I don't drain them down if parked for a long time without shore power or when winterzed. Thanks.

There are a couple things wired direct to the batteries by the factory including CO/CO2 monitors, bilge pumps, and possibly (not sure) the shower box. If you've had any electronics replaced, then there's honestly no telling how it might have been wired as well. The best way to keep the batteries in good shape would be a charger (and make sure it's appropriate for the AGM batteries you installed as they charge at a different voltage than lead acid).

The second best way would be to disconnect them, but only if you're out of the water and sure the boat will remain dry. Having a boat sink while on the hard is actually possible with enough rain!
 
I have a .4 A draw on my 12V system , but also haven't run it down.

The only way to guarantee the batteries are not drained is to 1) keep on shore power/charger to maintain batteries or 2) completely disconnect them. Regardless, they need to be maintained over the winter.

Also, what charger do you have? The stock one is pretty old, and if replacing with expensive AGM's, you want to get a really good battery charger to take care of them. Its one of the first things I did when I bought my boat, but I use "cheap" Sam's AGM. My last set of AGM's I got 8 seasons before proactively replacing them.

I have a ProNautic 1230, but if I were choosing a new charger today, I'd go with the Victron Blue Smart IP22 120VAC. About $250 delivered from Amazon. This unit has what they call "Adaptive Absorbsion". Smart charger that will baby those expensive AGMs.
 
You may want to update your profile, it says you're still searching for a 370 Aft Cabin :)

As far as I know the only thing that doesn't go through my battery switches are the bilge pumps. Is it possible you had a plumbing leak that caused your pumps to run while in storage? This can happen...ask me how I know. ha.
Thanks for the heads up on the profile, I signed up even before I bought my first boat. Im on # 3 now.
 
There are a couple things wired direct to the batteries by the factory including CO/CO2 monitors, bilge pumps, and possibly (not sure) the shower box. If you've had any electronics replaced, then there's honestly no telling how it might have been wired as well. The best way to keep the batteries in good shape would be a charger (and make sure it's appropriate for the AGM batteries you installed as they charge at a different voltage than lead acid).

The second best way would be to disconnect them, but only if you're out of the water and sure the boat will remain dry. Having a boat sink while on the hard is actually possible with enough rain!

Thank you. There have been a few updates by the prior owner stereo, satellite TV. This is the first time I relied on just shutting off breakers on my boats, I am old school and like to disconnect the cables. With the shut offs I thought I was good (I know better). There is a new battery charger that will handle the AGM's so I am good. During the season I am on shore power so It was not an issue.
 
I have a .4 A draw on my 12V system , but also haven't run it down.

The only way to guarantee the batteries are not drained is to 1) keep on shore power/charger to maintain batteries or 2) completely disconnect them. Regardless, they need to be maintained over the winter.

Also, what charger do you have? The stock one is pretty old, and if replacing with expensive AGM's, you want to get a really good battery charger to take care of them. Its one of the first things I did when I bought my boat, but I use "cheap" Sam's AGM. My last set of AGM's I got 8 seasons before proactively replacing them.

I have a ProNautic 1230, but if I were choosing a new charger today, I'd go with the Victron Blue Smart IP22 120VAC. About $250 delivered from Amazon. This unit has what they call "Adaptive Absorbsion". Smart charger that will baby those expensive AGMs.
 
I believe I have Pro Mariner ProNautic 12 30 It was installed by the prior owner just before I purchased the boat.
 
I believe I have Pro Mariner ProNautic 12 30 It was installed by the prior owner just before I purchased the boat.

I have the same and does a great job. Just read the manual and match up to your battery as close as possible.
 
One more trip out and I think I'll be done with this flooring project. I need to trim out my hatch covers this week at home so I can knock out the last few pieces in the cabin and do the mid-berth.

I did end up using some adhesive caulk to secure a couple pieces. I had to build a bridge between the two center hatch covers. It's a small bridge, I was concerned those pieces might "float" a bit too much if not secured.

Looking forward to being done! I can see the light...

52742876943_760e21b3f9_h.jpg


52742800615_06bcde025b_h.jpg
 
One more trip out and I think I'll be done with this flooring project. I need to trim out my hatch covers this week at home so I can knock out the last few pieces in the cabin and do the mid-berth.

I did end up using some adhesive caulk to secure a couple pieces. I had to build a bridge between the two center hatch covers. It's a small bridge, I was concerned those pieces might "float" a bit too much if not secured.

Looking forward to being done! I can see the light...

52742876943_760e21b3f9_h.jpg


52742800615_06bcde025b_h.jpg

Looks awesome! The routing worked out ok?
 
Looks awesome! The routing worked out ok?

It did, like a hot knife through butter. I was a bit of an idiot on the galley hatch though. I should have removed everything from that hatch before cutting. I'll be dealing with that mess for the next two years...:)

The shear volume of shavings that router created was impressive. A full vacuum canister for every hatch cover. Insane.
 
It did, like a hot knife through butter. I was a bit of an idiot on the galley hatch though. I should have removed everything from that hatch before cutting. I'll be dealing with that mess for the next two years...:)

The shear volume of shavings that router created was impressive. A full vacuum canister for every hatch cover. Insane.

haha I know. Even with my tiny 1/8” straight cut bit it was an insane mess

looking forward to seeing Johnny corners on those hatches, I really liked it on our old boat
 
Heading back today to install the pulls on the hatches and throw the final few pieces of flooring down. Not exactly what I planned to do with my Sunday but I really want to wrap this up.

I like the way the Johnny Corners turned out overall. My only gripe - the corners do not perfectly match the trim sections color wise. I was a bit bummed, the admiral will definitely notice. I'll tell everyone else it is supposed to be that way. :)

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It looks AWSOME!!!

One of these days I'll get around to new floors.

One second thought after hearing the tales of this job...I might stroke a check!
 
Heading back today to install the pulls on the hatches and throw the final few pieces of flooring down. Not exactly what I planned to do with my Sunday but I really want to wrap this up.

I like the way the Johnny Corners turned out overall. My only gripe - the corners do not perfectly match the trim sections color wise. I was a bit bummed, the admiral will definitely notice. I'll tell everyone else it is supposed to be that way. :)

52756270965_9e2b9018e7_h.jpg


52755322222_33d2c0c2d4_h.jpg

Beautiful. What did you do with the small odd shaped hatch in the forward state room?
 
What do you all consider a "safe" draft for your boats? I know the spec draft is 3' 6", but how close would you be comfortable cutting it for your channel and slip?
 
What do you all consider a "safe" draft for your boats? I know the spec draft is 3' 6", but how close would you be comfortable cutting it for your channel and slip?

I don’t anchor in less than 5-6’ on calm days. Even when we’re near the sand I’ve been under with goggles on and watched how close the props get to the bottom with a wake coming through and it’s uncomfortably close
 
What do you all consider a "safe" draft for your boats? I know the spec draft is 3' 6", but how close would you be comfortable cutting it for your channel and slip?

My boat has been on the bottom of my slip several times due to the combination of tide and wind. We have a nice, soft mud bottom here, so it's no big deal. No damage to the running gear at all. The type of bottom has as much to do with safe depth as your boat's draft. I've idled out of our marina through 4' of water many times as well. Again, it's about bottom composition. Silty mud at idle isn't much of a problem, though it's not great for the cutlass bearings. Raw water pumps dont seem to care.

I wouldn't dare do any of that on a firm sand bottom.
 
I don’t anchor in less than 5-6’ on calm days. Even when we’re near the sand I’ve been under with goggles on and watched how close the props get to the bottom with a wake coming through and it’s uncomfortably close
I'm more asking about draft in the harbor with props spinning. Agree with you 100% at anchor.
 

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