Dani-Lu
Well-Known Member
On a separate note, if those are the original CO2 alarms, you need to purchase new ones. The new ones have a longer life (approx 10 years), but they don’t last forever.
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Can someone explain how the batteries are set up in a 2001 410 Sundancer. New to me boat, I shut off the battery switches in the salon when I winterized. The Starboard battery set are dead, Port seem fine. When I reconnect I get a good spark on Starboard, nothing on Port. Is there something that is wired "on" even when the mains are turned "Off" (like CO2). I bought very expensive AGM replacements and want to make sure I don't drain them down if parked for a long time without shore power or when winterzed. Thanks.
Thanks for the heads up on the profile, I signed up even before I bought my first boat. Im on # 3 now.You may want to update your profile, it says you're still searching for a 370 Aft Cabin
As far as I know the only thing that doesn't go through my battery switches are the bilge pumps. Is it possible you had a plumbing leak that caused your pumps to run while in storage? This can happen...ask me how I know. ha.
There are a couple things wired direct to the batteries by the factory including CO/CO2 monitors, bilge pumps, and possibly (not sure) the shower box. If you've had any electronics replaced, then there's honestly no telling how it might have been wired as well. The best way to keep the batteries in good shape would be a charger (and make sure it's appropriate for the AGM batteries you installed as they charge at a different voltage than lead acid).
The second best way would be to disconnect them, but only if you're out of the water and sure the boat will remain dry. Having a boat sink while on the hard is actually possible with enough rain!
On a separate note, if those are the original CO2 alarms, you need to purchase new ones. The new ones have a longer life (approx 10 years), but they don’t last forever.
I have a .4 A draw on my 12V system , but also haven't run it down.
The only way to guarantee the batteries are not drained is to 1) keep on shore power/charger to maintain batteries or 2) completely disconnect them. Regardless, they need to be maintained over the winter.
Also, what charger do you have? The stock one is pretty old, and if replacing with expensive AGM's, you want to get a really good battery charger to take care of them. Its one of the first things I did when I bought my boat, but I use "cheap" Sam's AGM. My last set of AGM's I got 8 seasons before proactively replacing them.
I have a ProNautic 1230, but if I were choosing a new charger today, I'd go with the Victron Blue Smart IP22 120VAC. About $250 delivered from Amazon. This unit has what they call "Adaptive Absorbsion". Smart charger that will baby those expensive AGMs.
I believe I have Pro Mariner ProNautic 12 30 It was installed by the prior owner just before I purchased the boat.
One more trip out and I think I'll be done with this flooring project. I need to trim out my hatch covers this week at home so I can knock out the last few pieces in the cabin and do the mid-berth.
I did end up using some adhesive caulk to secure a couple pieces. I had to build a bridge between the two center hatch covers. It's a small bridge, I was concerned those pieces might "float" a bit too much if not secured.
Looking forward to being done! I can see the light...
Looks awesome! The routing worked out ok?
It did, like a hot knife through butter. I was a bit of an idiot on the galley hatch though. I should have removed everything from that hatch before cutting. I'll be dealing with that mess for the next two years...
The shear volume of shavings that router created was impressive. A full vacuum canister for every hatch cover. Insane.
Heading back today to install the pulls on the hatches and throw the final few pieces of flooring down. Not exactly what I planned to do with my Sunday but I really want to wrap this up.
I like the way the Johnny Corners turned out overall. My only gripe - the corners do not perfectly match the trim sections color wise. I was a bit bummed, the admiral will definitely notice. I'll tell everyone else it is supposed to be that way.
What do you all consider a "safe" draft for your boats? I know the spec draft is 3' 6", but how close would you be comfortable cutting it for your channel and slip?
What do you all consider a "safe" draft for your boats? I know the spec draft is 3' 6", but how close would you be comfortable cutting it for your channel and slip?
I'm more asking about draft in the harbor with props spinning. Agree with you 100% at anchor.I don’t anchor in less than 5-6’ on calm days. Even when we’re near the sand I’ve been under with goggles on and watched how close the props get to the bottom with a wake coming through and it’s uncomfortably close