2001 380DA wiring diagram - replace stereo amp(s) positive wire

[mrsrobinson]

I Googled "2001 sea ray 380DA wiring diagram" and can't seem to find what I am looking for. I want to find out where the positive power source wire for both amps under the salon seat connect, not at the amp, at the power source. I need to replace the existing one with 4-gauge power when I upgrade my amp.

Also, is this as simple as remove and replace, or will I need to do something else? And do I need to replace the negative wire as well?


Thanks

 

[bahamabreisus]

Run your new wire straight to the battery. In fact run negative also and put 2 power blocks under the couch

 

[ZZ13]

Your factory power wiring is most likely just a moderate gauge wire running from the “ Entertainment” switch on the 12v panel to a vintage amp such as the Clarion APA4204. At least that’s how they wired my 2001 boat.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Your factory power wiring is most likely just a 16 gauge wire running from the “ Entertainment” switch on the 12v panel to a vintage amp such as the Clarion APA4204. At least that’s how they wired my 2001 boat.

Yup, that's the vintage amp I have, plus a 2 channel bridged for the 4 cabin speakers. I am replacing the Clarion 4 channel with a Kicker 5 channel. And that's what I thought as well, that it goes to the "Entertainment" switch.

Skip to 45 seconds to see what I have. This was before I realized the Clarion power the 4 6.5s and the subwoofer.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Run your new wire straight to the battery. In fact run negative also and put 2 power blocks under the couch

A power block being a gizmo to connect future power to?

Suggestions on where to run the power (the route from the starboard salon to the port engine compartment) to the battery on this boat?

 

[Skybolt]

A power block being a gizmo to connect future power to?

Suggestions on where to run the power (the route from the starboard salon to the port engine compartment) to the battery on this boat?

You should run 0/1 gauge wire directly from your battery switch to these - https://www.amazon.com/Post-Power-Distribution-Block-Pair/dp/B07THLYYH3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2KBLWUG47SCG0&keywords=DC+power+block&qid=1674066983&sprefix=dc+power+block,aps,157&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzS0Q0OU1WOTBKRjhDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDU2MjQ1MkhHT1A3Uk5YU1RPMSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDgzMjQ3M0VIQ0VNVzdENFM4TyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

With one of these inline - https://www.amazon.com/STETION-Circuit-Trolling-12V-48VDC-Waterproof/dp/B07TFH7LK6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3N1IHDSZ1J7UV&keywords=dc+100A+breaker&qid=1674067056&sprefix=dc+100a+breaker,aps,108&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVEdHTVdKQkZITko0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTAzNDcxMkRKMkdRRDE2OUtVQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODI2MDY3UFU0UzRRM0EwVVY3JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

You will also need crimpers for the wire lugs. That one is up to you but the ones I recommend are expensive and needed - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJXHX1...olid=1DT2ZUBXR9ALX&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

And no that isn't overkill for both of your amps that you are connecting up. Good luck.

 

[Stee6043]

Or...you could use the existing wire...and...well...assume, hope, pray that the OEM breaker works like it's designed to

I ran new 4 gauge power wire (both positive and negative) on my 340 when I added the same amp setup I have now. Straight from the battery for both +/- with a big, beefy fuse located a couple feet from the battery connection.

Running wire that size all the way forward is going to be a rocking good time! It was a lot more manageable on a 340 since the my amps were located almost directly under the helm. I assume your amps are under the forward portion of the couch like my 400? Brutal

 

[Stee6043]

This is what the 4 gauge wire I used previously looked like (this was mid installation). Running 0/1 is going to be a hoot!

 

[superwa]

Thanks for sharing. Had no idea where my amps are.

Yup, that's the vintage amp I have, plus a 2 channel bridged for the 4 cabin speakers. I am replacing the Clarion 4 channel with a Kicker 5 channel. And that's what I thought as well, that it goes to the "Entertainment" switch.

Skip to 45 seconds to see what I have. This was before I realized the Clarion power the 4 6.5s and the subwoofer.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Why do I need to re-wire the existing 2 channel amp that powers the cabin speakers? I am not doing anything with it, leaving it as is.

 

[dtfeld]

I Googled "2001 sea ray 380DA wiring diagram" and can't seem to find what I am looking for. I want to find out where the positive power source wire for both amps under the salon seat connect, not at the amp, at the power source. I need to replace the existing one with 4-gauge power when I upgrade my amp.

Also, is this as simple as remove and replace, or will I need to do something else? And do I need to replace the negative wire as well?


Thanks

I believe the wiring is the same on the 380 as the 410, but looking at the factory schematic (DC Wiring), the power coming to the old amps is a Red w/ vio #10, that is wired back to a distribution block either in behind the main electrical panel, or up under the dash, then through a breaker/fuse. Cant remember exactly off the top of my head.

Given what's there, I'd run new wires back to the batteries. There is a lot of DC wire between the batteries and that amp as is.

Its not as hard as it might seem. If you get the map pocket at the helm out, its a pretty strait shot down the starboard gunnel from where the main cabin electric panel is, back down into the engine room, and then from there across to the batteries, or into the main distribution panel where you could install a new breaker for the amp. The breaker panel comes strait off the battery solenoid, so lots of good power there.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Thank you, what is the map pocket at the helm, never heard of that before. I thought about trying to follow the same wire path as the subwoofer since it's mounted on the starboard side and goes to the amp as well.

 

[dtfeld]

Thank you, what is the map pocket at the helm, never heard of that before. I thought about trying to follow the same wire path as the subwoofer since it's mounted on the starboard side and goes to the amp as well.

Its the big white plastic piece by your rt knee. Its held in by about 8 screws and is easily removed. All the wiring from the engine room to the helm and on up into the electrical cabinet go through there. Might be were they wound up any excess wiring coming from the top of the arch to the helm as well. There is a lot of space back behind here if your ever looking for a place to mount electronics...maybe even a new Amp!!

There is an access that is sealled up with about 20 lbs of silicone, but it easy to punch through and reseal as necessary..

Get a good fiberglass wire fish and its a pretty easy job getting new wires and thing up through there.


Hatchedd area is generally where the electrical panel is and there is a path to getr wires down the right hand side.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Cool thank you, do I need to buy one of these fancy $150 wiring kits for amps, or can I just pick up this wire at the hardware store?

 

[ZZ13]

Cool thank you, do I need to buy one of these fancy $150 wiring kits for amps, or can I just pick up this wire at the hardware store?

There are less than $50 kits all over Amazon. Only concern would be if the supplied fuse holder is a match for gauge of the wiring. Not the fuse size, but the actual connections on the fuse holder.

 

[Skybolt]

Why do I need to re-wire the existing 2 channel amp that powers the cabin speakers? I am not doing anything with it, leaving it as is.

You have so many threads and different amps in each thread, it's hard to keep up with what exactly you are trying to connect. My thinking is you have RockfordFosgate and a Kicker both 5 channels and both require 4 ga wire to power them. So 1/0 wire could do both.

 

[Skybolt]

There are less than $50 kits all over Amazon. Only concern would be if the supplied fuse holder is a match for gauge of the wiring. Not the fuse size, but the actual connections on the fuse holder.

And those don't have a ground wire longer then 3'. Also if he is changing out two 5ch amps he needs two 4 ga wire(s) or one 1/0 wire to the common area.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Sorry for all the threads, the initial one spun off in a lot of different directions, so I created a more specific one, then that one started spinning off in a different direction, etc.

I'm changing out the one 4 channel amp that powers cockpit speakers for a five channel one from Kicker. I have no immediate plans to change out the two channel amp that powers the salon speakers. Although I'm thinking about using the four channel that I'm going to replace, to replace the two channel one, wires should be fine.

The challenge I see with the kits I see online are 17 to 20 ft of cable, I don't know if I'll need more than that.

 

[bahamabreisus]

Cool thank you, do I need to buy one of these fancy $150 wiring kits for amps, or can I just pick up this wire at the hardware store?

Make sure you us marine grade tinned wire. Regular wire will corrode early.

 

[dtfeld]

Cool thank you, do I need to buy one of these fancy $150 wiring kits for amps, or can I just pick up this wire at the hardware store?

Buy good marine tinned wire. Ancor is the standard. It's not inexpensive, but if you look around online, you do a lot better than West Marine. Blue Seas for fuse blocks. Crimp everything and shrink wrap it with adhesive. Otherwise you'll be chasing electrical gremlins in a couple years.